Protected surfaces for Hearthstone Mansfield

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cinderblock

New Member
Jan 21, 2011
8
NJ
Greetings to all -

First, what an AWESOME forum...LOTS of wisdom it seems. Hope you don't mind fielding questions from someone who's been out of the woodstove burning loop for about five years (during house renovations) and has purchased a Hearthstone Mansfield for a Great Room corner install.


Prior to my hiatus, I was an avid wood burner. When I bought the house it had an old BOSS woodstove. From 1992-2004 I only used about a half tank of fuel oil....I'm cheap :-) Because the BOSS was in place prior to me purchasing the house, I've never done an install....


I've been trying to interpret the Standards presented in the NFPA Table 12.6.2.1 and in doing so, it appears that the company from which I'm purchasing the woodstove from is providing conflicting information against the NFPA standard....more to follow on that in a later paragraph.


My installation goal is to place the unit as close as possible to the corner, in order to provide for 1) straight piping up and out and 2) adequate flashing clearance from the roof ridge once outside. By using a Rear Heat Shield, and Double wall connector pipe, the user's manual states the corner distance to protected surfaces (NFPA 211) to be 7 inches.


NFPA 211, Table 12.6.2.1 provides only two options (a) and (b) - that do not involve the use of a ventilated air space - for clearance reduction (ie creation of a protected surface). The provision of (b) follows:

1/2 inch noncombustible insulation board over 1 in glass fiber or mineral wool batts without ventilated air space.


Ok - so what exactly does that look like? One of the corner walls is an outside wall. Both walls have wooden 2x4's holding up the drywall. If I were to remove the drywall and place 1 inch of mineral wool batts (lovingly known to me as rotton cotton) between the studs, and slap on 1/2 in thick piece of Hardibacker, have I met this requirement?


Here's the solution offered by the company that sold me the woodstove: Leave drywall in place and cover with TWO 1/2 in pieces of Hardibacker.....but I don't find that anywhere in the NFPA 211 Table 12.6.2.1.


THEN there's the question of what to put over top of the Hardibacker. I know that tile would be the lightest, least expensive way to go, BUT - aesthetically I really like a pre-fab interlocking stone product in which the stones are held together with some type of epoxy. I don't know if that would completely hose the non-combustibility requirement......Argh!


Safety is first with me - but placement of the woodstove is a close second, and right-on-the-heels is a nice 'look'


Any/all comments welcomed....and thanks so much for reading!
 
NFPA is not a government organization:

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) is an international nonprofit organization that was established in 1896. The company’s mission is to reduce the worldwide burden of fire and other hazards on the quality of life by providing and advocating consensus codes and standards, research, training, and education.

With a membership that includes more than 75,000 individuals from nearly 100 nations NFPA is the world's leading advocate of fire prevention and an authoritative source on public safety.
 
I had read the Wall clearance article prior to the post, and was puzzled that the 'without ventilated air space' options were not presented.

Am I reading NFPA 211 Table 12.6.2.1 incorrectly? There is no option for wall protection aside from the 1" ventilated air space?

I am stymied.....and super glad I found this site :-) Like I wrote prev: SAFETY FIRST !!
 
The initial post says "My installation goal is to place the unit as close as possible to the corner,". The method described will not do this. It is good for a 50% reduction, not the 66% reduction possible with a ventilated spaces. I don't think you want to use compressible batts because it needs to cover everything including the face of the studs, not just between the studs. They are combustible. Micore would be a suitable mineral board.

Note that the ventilated option is the same depth as when using 1" mineral board. The air gap can be discrete and part of the overall design with a little planning. I would not use adhesives for the stone surface. Use mortar or thinset.
 
I appreciate your willingness to share your understanding :-)


My opposition to using the ventilated air space is primarily based on the problem that would exist in supporting the weight of the stone product….without it touching the floor.

For clarification: the plan is to secure the stone product (onto the HardiBacker) with mortar….not an adhesive. The epoxy reference was regarding the product that I can visibly see holds the individual stones together.

Thank you again for sharing your wisdom !

oh and - Finding Micore here (in NJ) is like finding a needle in a haystack !
 
Whether the cement board is screwed directly to the studs or held off 1", it's going to be the same amount of screws holding it up. Don't worry about it. The sheer strength of screws is impressive. Supporting the weight is not an issue.

For this wall shield I would probably use Durock or Wonderboard rather than Hardibacker because that has cellulose fiber in it. I don't like cellulose fiber near high heat. If the cement board is screwed once every 8" on say 3 studs for a height of 36" it will have a dozen screws holding it. If you use doubled-up, long, 3" wide strips of the cement board as non-combustible furring strips on the studs to create the 1" space, you will have a very rigid, solid assembly upon which to apply the stonework. Use 3" screws every 8" to hold it up. If you want extra peace of mind you could have a 3-4" wide stone foot at every stud supporting it too. As long as they don't block the majority of the opening, it'll be fine. The pattern created by the feet could be repeated at the top and then capped with a nice wider stone for a handsome looking finished cap.

Can you provide a link to the stone product and epoxy you want to use? It may be ok. What does the product data sheet say for temp range?
 
THANK YOU AGAIN!

Will provide the stone product detail when I locate it. The local distributor seems to be very tight lipped about the specs, so I'm in the midst of doing some investigative reporting.....

May be a bit, but I'll be back :-)
 
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