Quad "Santa Fe" circa2007

[Denali14]

Has anyone run into an issue with a non-stop feed upon start up with the igniter not kicking on? Igniter OHM tested perfect, I put line voltage to it and it gets cherry red. I replaced the board and it does the same thing and are now thinking its fried, as well as the original. I used my "Test box" with the 7amp fuse and Nothing blew it. I did step down fuse sizes and found that the igniter would only hold on a 3 amp. I'm calling HHT tomorrow to confirm amp draw on the igniter, but wanted to throw this situation out here tonight anyway.

Thanks!!

 

[Denali14]

Has anyone run into an issue with a non-stop feed upon start up with the igniter not kicking on? Igniter OHM tested perfect, I put line voltage to it and it gets cherry red. I replaced the board and it does the same thing and are now thinking its fried, as well as the original. I used my "Test box" with the 7amp fuse and Nothing blew it. I did step down fuse sizes and found that the igniter would only hold on a 3 amp. I'm calling HHT tomorrow to confirm amp draw on the igniter, but wanted to throw this situation out here tonight anyway.

Thanks!!

I forgot to mention that I'd already called HHT and they said "It could be a MICRO short" within one of the components and that is whats cooking the control boards. Thus my reason for stepping down the fuse sizes. This system is also hooked up to a t-stat and I've completed system checks with it connected and disconnected.

 

[kappel15]

Start up on this stove is 4.1 Amps

 

[Denali14]

Start up on this stove is 4.1 Amps

What are your thoughts on the igniter being the board frying culprit? The test box fuse blows on a 1.5 amp fuse and holds on a 3 amp during igniter check. All other components will run on a 1.5 amp. Add those 2 together and I've got 4.5, or is my thinking faulty? I do not want to spend another dime on another new board until I'm 90% sure of a fix. Can you think of any else? I'm doubting the switches, although she did say she had to hit restart quite often before the board failure. Or maybe a short in the wiring harness? I'm not the type of Tech to simply throw parts at it until something works, I need to know WHY.

 

[jzm2cc]

Any chance wiring was hooked up incorrectly at some point causing voltage across auger motor constantly?

Could be a shorted triac that feeds auger motor.

With stove unplugged and control board removed I'd check each and every wire for proper connections via multi-meter and schematic in manual

 

[kappel15]

At start up you have exhaust fan, auger motor, and igniter. Auger motor shuts off after 60 seconds. Run draw on this stove should be 1.1 Amps. As stated above, time to find the wire or wires that are doing this. kap

 

[Denali14]

At start up you have exhaust fan, auger motor, and igniter. Auger motor shuts off after 60 seconds. Run draw on this stove should be 1.1 Amps. As stated above, time to find the wire or wires that are doing this. kap

At start up you have exhaust fan, auger motor, and igniter. Auger motor shuts off after 60 seconds. Run draw on this stove should be 1.1 Amps. As stated above, time to find the wire or wires that are doing this. kap

Kap, I'm not doubting your expertise, but the amp draw on that igniter concerns me greatly. If you truly believe that it's in the wiring harness I'm ordering one and replacing the igniter as a compromise. Reason being is that the igniter blew a 1.5amp fuse in my test box, all other components ran fine together with a 1.5 amp fuse in my test box. I've had time to play with my test box on this unit, I used a .5 amp to run the auger and the comb. blower (separately) without blowing the fuse. The comb. blower blew the .5 but ran on the 1.5. My experience with Quads is limited to 2 years and thus my reasoning for picking your brain. HHT tech has Not helped with amp specs like you have and I Greatly appreciate your input. The one thing HHT did great was creating a test box that you can replace fuses in, but they never mention using lower amp fuses to test components. Mine was sent with a standard 7amp which told me Nothing at the start.

 

[Denali14]

Any chance wiring was hooked up incorrectly at some point causing voltage across auger motor constantly?

Could be a shorted triac that feeds auger motor.

With stove unplugged and control board removed I'd check each and every wire for proper connections via multi-meter and schematic in manual

Thank's for your reply also. I've gone through the schematic and found wrong colored wires direct from HHT and they confirmed it. Nothing had been changed from factory specs, this was confirmed after a few different calls. Now, you mentioned a "Triac" and HHT tech also mentioned that. My understanding was that is a part of the circuit board or am I wrong?

 

[kappel15]

I've never had issues with an igniter, but you could hot wire it and run it thru a plug in Amp meter. Mostly it has been wires that got freyed or chewed on by mice, that short out, including igniter wires. And igniters are fairly cheap, and should be an item to have stocked anyway. There could be an issue in the control box mount itself. And electrical is not my strong suit. kap

 

[Denali14]

I had to step back and take a break from this stove to rethink the primary issue again. So I called HHT again (received another different answer) and after 10 minutes, I now believe I've got the most probable cause for what this stove is doing. The wire mesh is shorting the T-couple and causing the board to believe that there is heat in the firebox yet. Thus causing the feed motor to not run a cycle feed for startup (when the stat is calling for heat) and the igniter not to come on. I'm unsure why the old T-couple decided to do this, unless the ceramic shield was knocked around during a cleaning and the wire mesh eventually touched the wires. I did replace the original T-couple and had not checked that wire mesh. This afternoon was the first time that was suggested and are really hoping that this is it. Nothing else makes any sense, considering 2 new boards did the same as the original and all components checked out with the test box and an OHM meter. Thank's for the service suggestions and hope this helps you with your service calls, that's if you've never run into something like this before.

 

[kappel15]

That,is a weird one for sure. Are you up and running? kap

 

[Denali14]

That,is a weird one for sure. Are you up and running? kap

Kap,
I'm keeping my fingers crossed and will say my "prayers" over the stove tomorrow morning. As I mentioned earlier, this last conversation W/HHT tech actually made the most sense. Sometimes the simplest answer is the correct one and I'm hoping it's true this time. I'll Definitely let you know and will hopefully send pics of a Happy stove Thank's again for your suggestions

 

[kappel15]

And I am curious as to what "wire mesh is shorting it out. Thanks. kap

 

[Denali14]

And I am curious as to what "wire mesh is shorting it out. Thanks. kap

I don't recall ever seeing one either, but Ron said it's wrapped in with the high temp insulating blanket on the T-pile leads going into the firebox. I just checked my parts supply, don't have an extra I can look at (to confirm Ron) and are hoping this is the solution. I've worked on a number of Quad's through the years (Harman's are my niche and trained under J. Crutcher) and this one has me puzzled. That's a part of the reason why I decided to become a part of this forum, professional answers to difficult questions.

 

[kappel15]

Ron is a good man, and very knowledgeable. I enjoy talking to him. I know if you bend the wire too much on a tcouple, it can crack the coating on the wires, and they can false read. kap

 

[Ssyko]

2001 cb1200 My thermocouple has a very fine braded wire cover over the wires

 

[kappel15]

I have braided line also. Wire mesh threw me for a loop