Castile Problem

[anton382]

Hi Folks,

First off Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to every one.

I have been a lurker here for some time and this is my first post. I have read all other posts and have not seen the same situation that I have. I have a Quad Castile Insert which I installed new in 2001, and have loved it ever since. I burn about 2 tons + per years and over the past 9 years have got to know the stove pretty well, and do al of my own work to date.

The problem I am having now is the stove will run perfectly until I try and push the thermostat to 70 or above. After running for some time even an entire day, I will push the temp up and it will stop feeding pellets.

When this happens, the reset switch does nothing, both fans are on, red call light is on. After it cools for about 5 minutes, there is a slight click, like something resetting and then the rest button will work, it will start feeding again and everything seems to be fine until it gets to 70 or above and it starts all over again. If I leave the right Cast Iron Panel Off , or leave the Front Cast Iron Door open, it seems to work fine, which is indicating to me that something is overheating. I will list everything that I have done in the past week, and the same problem exists.

1) Completely clean stove, clean and vacuum heat exchanger tubes, rear cast panels, exhaust fan and blades, hopper and feed tube, as well as vac fitting on feed tube, firepot, removed and cleaned igniter, removed insert and brushed and cleaned entire exhaust system.

2) Replaced door gasket, and vacuum tubing going to vac switch.

3) I switched snap switch # 2 + # 3 they are the same, and even though resettable I thought perhaps # 2 was defective which controls the feed motor, even though it seemed to check ok, but I was in the area, so what the heck.

The only thing I have not replaced is the Vac Switch and control box, I still have the original grey one box, which I removed and blew out with air, cleaned contacts.

My test is to bypass the vac switch and see if the problem persists, with the holidays I have not been home long enough to do so, I didn’t want to leave it unattended with the switch bypassed.

This thing will run fine 24 hours a day, cycling on and off normally, until I push the t-stat up, so it seems to be heat related and I hate to start throwing parts at it, especially expensive parts. Has anyone heard of the vac switch being effected by heat ?

Sorry to ramble on but I wanted to give you all the info of what I have done. I would be great full for any suggestions you may have.

Thanks again,
Butch

 

[DannMarr]

It may be heat related, but it can also be a vacuum issue. You said it works with the front or side panel off. How did you replace the gasket? Did you wrap it all the way around the glass? If you still have the old snap discs and tube, put them back on one at a time and see what happens.

 

[anton382]

Yes, the gasket was replaced just like the original, wrapped around the glass with the self adhesive tape. I never replaced the snap discs, just swapped thier positions, # 2 will shut down the feed system, # 3 when tripped is supposed to shut down everything if there is a fire in the feed tube. Since they are the same # switch, I just switched them.

After that the exact same problem still exists.

Thanks,
Butch

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

i can email you the svc manual
insert or fs??

 

[DannMarr]

The snap disks may be rated at different temperatures. Switch them back and try it. Also try jumping the vacuum switch and the snap disc on the feed circuit.

 

[anton382]

Dann,

The Switches are identicle, temp and P.N, I jumped # 2 with no change after I switched, my next item will be to jump the vac switch, I just hope it isn't the control box, mine is greay, and from what I read the replacement is clear, just didn't want to put out that money if I don't have to.

Dan,

I believe I have the service manual, but if you would like to email it to me I would certainly appreciate it. It is a INSERT by the way, sorry if I failed to mention that.
email: [email protected]
Thanks,
Butch

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

manual sent

 

[tjnamtiw]

I also have a Castile Insert but newer. I can't see how the 70 degrees enters the equation because, as you know I'm sure, the stove doesn't care what temp it is as long as the call light is on. Jumping discs and vac switch seem like good ideas. Does the auger motor get hot to the touch (since you have the side panel off)? It shouldn't. Do you hear any unusual noises like if the auger is bent and scraping? Maybe as the stove heats up, warpage is occurring in the auger tube or the auger. (Long shot!). This is a really strange one! Did you post it over on iburncorn.com under the Quadrafire section? If not, do it.

 

[anton382]

tjnamtiw,

I realise what you are saying but what is funny is it will run at 68 all day, as soon as I try to push it a little higher is when all this starts to happen. During this event the reset button, when pushed does absolutly nothing, you don;t hear a click like its triggering the auger, but after it cools a bit maybe 5 - 8 minutets, if you are close you hear a click like something reseting and then the reset button will work, and on occasion it might start feeding on its own and relight. Something is stopping the current to the auger, both fams are running during this period, I will bypass the vac switch tonight if I get some time and see if that has any effect.

Thanks again,
Butch

 

[rap69ri]

I'm working on a FS Castille now that has an auger that will not come on at all. After the owner of the stove tried a new auger and a control board it looks like their may be a problem with wiring harness. The fans are fed power from totally different wires, as is the ignitor. Your issue sounds like a you either have a short, or a wire that opens up when it heats up.

Just to try something that would eliminate the stove or the thermostat from being the issue, unattach the thermostat wires at the thermostat and tie the wires together. This in essence is telling the stove to keep pumping in pellets because temp is never reached. If the stove keeps running you know it's your thermostat that's the problem.

 

[anton382]

rap69ri,

I was just reading about you situation as well and the thought of a bad wire has com eto mind as well. My call light stays lit the entire time so I doubt its the thermostat, I may open up the harness and look at the wires though, I hate to just through money at it. As we speak I have the right cast iron panel off and its been running for about 3 hours and its about 72 in the room with no sign of stopping. But I will bet you cas of adult beverage as soon as I replace that panel it will stop feeding pellets in a short period. Perhaps over the weekend Iwill have some time to experiment, wit hthe holidays I have family staying with us etc.

On your problem, I hate to sound like a smart a$$ but did you remove the auger itself? The reason I ask about 5 years ago my auger would not turn what so ever. Took me about two hours to disassemle, but what had happen, over the summer some rain water entered the access panel in the top of the stove and the water found its way to the handfull of pellets that were left in the auger at the end of the season. It turned into a concrete like mixture and was unbelievable to get out. I have since sealed that access paned, replced the chimney cap and be sure I run the stove dry at the end of the season.

Good luck and thanks for the suggestion

 

[tjnamtiw]

tjnamtiw,

I realise what you are saying but what is funny is it will run at 68 all day, as soon as I try to push it a little higher is when all this starts to happen. During this event the reset button, when pushed does absolutly nothing, you don;t hear a click like its triggering the auger, but after it cools a bit maybe 5 - 8 minutets, if you are close you hear a click like something reseting and then the reset button will work, and on occasion it might start feeding on its own and relight. Something is stopping the current to the auger, both fams are running during this period, I will bypass the vac switch tonight if I get some time and see if that has any effect.

Thanks again,
Butch

Sure sounds like it's more than the vacuum switch! Does your dealer have a Castile on display that you could swap out your control box with? Kap over on the other forum should be able to help.

 

[DannMarr]

Are you switching the temperature while the stove is on? Try programming the settings to 70 when the stove is off, then turn the heat switch off, then switch it back on. Maybe the Thermostat is defective or acting strange while changing temperature while it is in heating.

 

[rap69ri]

rap69ri,

I was just reading about you situation as well and the thought of a bad wire has com eto mind as well. My call light stays lit the entire time so I doubt its the thermostat, I may open up the harness and look at the wires though, I hate to just through money at it. As we speak I have the right cast iron panel off and its been running for about 3 hours and its about 72 in the room with no sign of stopping. But I will bet you cas of adult beverage as soon as I replace that panel it will stop feeding pellets in a short period. Perhaps over the weekend Iwill have some time to experiment, wit hthe holidays I have family staying with us etc.

On your problem, I hate to sound like a smart a$$ but did you remove the auger itself? The reason I ask about 5 years ago my auger would not turn what so ever. Took me about two hours to disassemle, but what had happen, over the summer some rain water entered the access panel in the top of the stove and the water found its way to the handfull of pellets that were left in the auger at the end of the season. It turned into a concrete like mixture and was unbelievable to get out. I have since sealed that access paned, replced the chimney cap and be sure I run the stove dry at the end of the season.

Good luck and thanks for the suggestion

We had the stove down to the shell, removing every piece to make sure it was clean. Our problem isn't as simple as a jam unfortunately, but we were hoping when we began the process.

 

[jtp10181]

Are you two snap switches the ones with the reset buttons on them? If they are, its not those tripping, or you would have to manually reset them.

To test I would find the first wire connection coming out of the control box that feeds power to the auger. Can't remember if this is the snap switch or the vac switch. I would hook up a meter there and watch voltage. Duplicate the problem and see if the control box continues to send voltage or not. If the box sends voltage you know one of the safeties is tripping, if not, well... probably the box itself.