QuadFire Classic bay 1200

[stuchele]

This stove is 14 years old. Really no issues other than a fan. Today it would not light. The igniter would glow but the pellets would not light. I change the igniter but got the wires wrong and blow the fuse on the control panel. I replaced the fuse and the stove runs like it should when power is restored, but the igniter stays lit.

Not sure what it could be. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[jzm2cc]

Odds are the igniter circuit was damaged. Guessing the mechanical relay ot triac is now shorted, thus supplying power to the igniter all the time. Quite fixable uf you can find an electrical technician. These parts can be ordered online for a few dollars, verses a new control board which is over $200.

 

[stuchele]

Odds are the igniter circuit was damaged. Guessing the mechanical relay ot triac is now shorted, thus supplying power to the igniter all the time. Quite fixable uf you can find an electrical technician. These parts can be ordered online for a few dollars, verses a new control board which is over $200.

Not sure I can find anyone here to fix it, but the part that is bad is on the control board? Like what is on the link below?

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.co...age=1&f-Control Panels and Circuit Boards=199

 

[mralias]

Not sure I can find anyone here to fix it, but the part that is bad is on the control board? Like what is on the link below?

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/1200-Classic-Bay-Pellet-Stove-Parts-s/355.htm?searching=Y&sort=1&cat=355&show=12&page=1&f-Control Panels and Circuit Boards=199

The fix is something you can do yourself if you decide to replace the entire control box. Make sure you unplug your stove first. The old one pulls out and the new one seats right back in. Or if you have a dealer near you that sells Quads, you may want to try your old box in one of their stoves to see if it really is defective if they will let you.

 

[stuchele]

The fix is something you can do yourself if you decide to replace the entire control box. Make sure you unplug your stove first. The old one pulls out and the new one seats right back in. Or if you have a dealer near you that sells Quads, you may want to try your old box in one of their stoves to see if it really is defective if they will let you.

That is what I thought I could DIY. Just want to bet sure I need a control box.

 

[jzm2cc]

Typically about $200 for a new control box. Always a good idea to have stove power through a power strip that has a good surge protector built in.

During the Summer months I unplug our stoves to protect from lightening strikes.

 

[stuchele]

Where is the control box located? Does anyone have a video/instructions on replacing?

 

[mralias]

Where is the control box located? Does anyone have a video/instructions on replacing?

Yours is in the pellet hopper back left side. 1200i is located lower right behind door. See link.

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[stuchele]

The video does not show how to remove and replace the box.

 

[mralias]

The video does not show how to remove and replace the box.

I suspect you will have to figure that part out yourself. The 1200i is easy...not sure how the 1200 is mounted but looks to me to be a few screws based on the video. Could not find a video that shows one being pulled. If Kapple15 chimes in, I'm sure he knows but have not seen him post in while.

 

[stuchele]

I got it. What threw me off was my box looked completely different than the one I got. So now...

The stove fired up, blower kicked on...BUT it runs then the fire goes out. I have adjusted the feed rate to allow more fuel. If I allow to much fuel, would it cause the stove to go out? I would not think so, I would think it would burn very high.

I will have to let it go through a few more call for heat cycles to see if it is working correctly.

Should the flame stay steady throughout the heating process or should the level of the flame vary?

 

[mralias]

I got it. What threw me off was my box looked completely different than the one I got. So now...

The stove fired up, blower kicked on...BUT it runs then the fire goes out. I have adjusted the feed rate to allow more fuel. If I allow to much fuel, would it cause the stove to go out? I would not think so, I would think it would burn very high.

I will have to let it go through a few more call for heat cycles to see if it is working correctly.

Should the flame stay steady throughout the heating process or should the level of the flame vary?

The flame height will vary, that happens in all quads. The blower should kick on first, then the fire. The thermocouple heats up and then auger starts up again feed pellets. Are you sure it is feed pellets after initial start up? See attached diagram for how the sequence works. Tell us at what point it is not in line with this sequence.

 

[stuchele]

Yes it fed after initial start. The blower was on and blowing heat, and it just died out.

This time it fired up and I watched it feed pellets. It was burning normal, then it just stopped feeding. The blower did not turn on. If I het the reset button it will fire up again and run.

 

[stuchele]

This morning I tried it again. It lit, fed pellets and burned for a while, then the flame went out, but it got hot enough to kick on the blower, but now there is no flame in the burn pot. I will have to pull the cover on the control box and confirm the stages/lights.

 

[mralias]

Make sure the thermocouple wire is pushed all the way into the porcelain housing and it is positioned correctly over the fire pot. Sounds like the stove is shutting down based on bad reading from the thermocouple.

 

[stuchele]

Make sure the thermocouple wire is pushed all the way into the porcelain housing and it is positioned correctly over the fire pot. Sounds like the stove is shutting down based on bad reading from the thermocouple.

Thanks. I will check that when I get home from work.

 

[stuchele]

Thanks. I will check that when I get home from work.

Make sure the thermocouple wire is pushed all the way into the porcelain housing and it is positioned correctly over the fire pot. Sounds like the stove is shutting down based on bad reading from the thermocouple.

I checked the wire and adjusted, I think it was fine but now I know it is the whole way in the porcelain housing. Now I am back to the original problem that started this mess. The stove did not light. I saw embers flying around, so it got hot enough to do that, but it never lit.

I called the company were I got the control box from and they gave a few suggestions. Make sure the burn pot is clean (which it is) but I want to clean the holes good. clean the ash box and check the door gasket. I have never changed the gasket in the door, so I was thinking maybe I should. I will do the dollar bill test to see how the seal is. Does anyone have instructions on how to change the gasket for this model?

 

[mralias]

I checked the wire and adjusted, I think it was fine but now I know it is the whole way in the porcelain housing. Now I am back to the original problem that started this mess. The stove did not light. I saw embers flying around, so it got hot enough to do that, but it never lit.

I called the company were I got the control box from and they gave a few suggestions. Make sure the burn pot is clean (which it is) but I want to clean the holes good. clean the ash box and check the door gasket. I have never changed the gasket in the door, so I was thinking maybe I should. I will do the dollar bill test to see how the seal is. Does anyone have instructions on how to change the gasket for this model?

Changing the door gasket is no big deal. It is taking out the old, cleaning the channel the best you can and re-gluing the new one in place. Make sure you pay attention to where the air wash gaps are located so you don't block them. Air wash gaps are little gaps in the framing area that allow air to pass up the glass to keep it clean. Do a you tube search for changing a gasket in a pellet stove for suggestions on how to do it.

One question. When was the last time you cleaned the entire venting system. I am now wondering if most of your issues are airflow. When it did light was it a lazy flame or a crisp one with the tips of the flame just outside the fire pot. It could explain all of your issues if a blockage by ash is restricting the airflow of the stove. These stoves rely on clean all the way through including all areas that can accumulate ash. Just a thought.

 

[stuchele]

I keep it pretty clean, but I took a brush to the burn pot where the igniter is and cleaned the holes. I checked the exhaust ash door - clean. Double checked the position of the thermocouple.

So I tried it again What was weird it did stop feeding and the fire went out, just hot embers, then it started feeding and since it was hot the pellets caught, but the blower did not kick on this time, and it was already at 20 minutes running. So I turned off the thermostat and let it shut down.

I went through the operation diagram and the light turned green, then red. I timed how long from when it first lit until the blower kicked on, 15:30. (Which is about right from what I remember from when the stove was running correctly.)

SO now I am really confused. It is working now! I was starting to think #1 snap disk, but it is working for the moment.

Could it still be the snap disc? Going bad? I just replaced the blower, at most has 30 hours on it.

So far 2 heat cycles, still working!

 

[mralias]

Strange....The only thing we have not talked about is cleaning out the vacuum switch and the line that runs to the auger. If that is clogged even a little with ash then it can mess up the pellet feed. Make sure to disconnect it from the vacuum switch side and blow towards the auger side. Should be no resistance when you blow into the line. Snap disk very rarely go bad. Not to say it is not possible but unlikely.

 

[stuchele]

Well it has been working. It did not light two times today so far, but ran last night. Seems that the feeding issue has stopped. I did look at the vacuum line but did not touch it. Thanks for the tip.

What about sawdust in the auger? Could that cause the stove not to light? When the pellets get low I think will clean out the hopper and feed tube.

 

[mralias]

Well it has been working. It did not light two times today so far, but ran last night. Seems that the feeding issue has stopped. I did look at the vacuum line but did not touch it. Thanks for the tip.

What about sawdust in the auger? Could that cause the stove not to light? When the pellets get low I think will clean out the hopper and feed tube.

I have never had a sawdust issue in mine. Although cleaning around the auger is something you should do. If you have damp or wet pellets or a poor grade pellet that can give you issues of staying lit as well. Best way to determine that is go buy a bag of new pellets, different brand and see if that fixes your issue.

 

[jzm2cc]

Did you set the rotary switch on control.board per instruction when replacing board? Sounds like its set up for a smaller stove like Santa Fe, thus fire dying out.

 

[stuchele]

Did you set the rotary switch on control.board per instruction when replacing board? Sounds like its set up for a smaller stove like Santa Fe, thus fire dying out.

JZ - You are the man! Guess I need a better magnifying glass. It was set on 7 instead of 1.

What is the difference between setting 1 and 2? Since I have a 1200 FS.

 

[jzm2cc]

Glad to hear it was in wrong position, hopefully this corrects the fire up, then fire dying out over time issue. #2 should be 10% more fuel feed over the baseline CB1200 setting (#1).