Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 grounded properly?

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hooverda18

New Member
Jan 14, 2019
7
Pennsylvania
Hello everyone, I'm new to the pellet stove world and I just had a new QuadraFire Classic Bay 1200 installed in my home. I've had issues with it roughly a week after install. To start off it was installed by a certified dealer. They installed it with an outside air kit (wasn't sure what that even was at first). Lets get to the issues I have been having...

1. I have to clean the glass every day because there is so much ash and black soot that builds up on it and you can't see inside.
2. I also vacuum the stove out every day (mostly because I like to keep it clean) but also because of the ash build up around the fire pot
3. Every time I clean out the stove I get shocked. Sometimes its just a little shock and then other times it hits me so hard it could bring me back from the dead. I thought it was just static electricity at first but I took my voltage tester to the outside of the stove and its throwing a high current... Then if I keep the tester in the stove and touch the stove anywhere with my fingers I then ground that stove and it detects no current at all.
4. I also have to chisel hard black build up off the inside of the fire pot (including the swing plate at the bottom)

With all that said. I had a technician come out to take a look because the stove was burning so dirty with all the soot and what not building up on the glass, fire pot and baffle plates. He disconnected the outside air kit and it seems to have helped a little bit. However, I'm still getting the build up.

I've tried 4 different pellets so far since November. First ones were Easyblaze softwood, then I tried Lignetics hardwood (these were horrible), I'm currently running EasyBlaze blend. The kind I am trying at this very moment are Barefoot and Beautiful and these were recommended by the technician that came out. He said its his favorite, high heat and virtually no ash... I can tell you out of the 3 other kinds the Barefoot by far has the highest heat output, however, the ash is by far the worst.

Sorry for rambling on but I guess what I am trying to ask is... If the stove isn't grounded properly could this be causing all the issues that I have been having?
 
The stove may not be grounded properly,or what it is wired into,in your house,may have the problem.It also may have already damaged the control board.
 
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I checked the outlet that its plugged into and it is wired correctly which leads me to believe that it has to be something with the stove. I followed the ground wire from the power cord and checked resistance and the wire is good. So I'm not sure where to go from here
 
<< I took my voltage tester to the outside of the stove and its throwing a high current... Then if I keep the tester in the stove and touch the stove anywhere with my fingers I then ground that stove and it detects no current at all.>>
I fail to understand how your voltage tester is detecting a current. They are called voltage testers because they do just that : detect voltages. But I suspect that this voltage tester is just a neon light which is certainly detecting voltage , but as a voltage tester has its limitations.
The probability is that the socket which the stove is plugged into has two faults
A : the live and the neutral are swapped
B : the ground is not connected to a ground worthy of that name.
You say you have checked it : I would get a qualified electrician with the necessary instruments to verify your findings. The chances of a new stove , straight from the factory , being electrically dangerous are surely small.

But all this will have no effect on the functioning of the stove.
I would cease worrying about which pellets to buy , and concentrate on getting the stove adjusted correctly. The installers should be capable of doing this : but If it works better without the OAK , it does not bode well for their competence.
 
I would be calling the store to take care of this. The stove is under warranty, and should be running way better then this. There is something wrong with the exhaust they put in, and taking the oak out shouldn't of affected its running to the better. Wondering if the feed rate is set up right. I would let the store earn their money and have them either get it running right, or replace it. kap
 
If you're getting a shock after or during vacuuming, it's probably static built up from the ash moving through the hose (assuming you have a plastic hose). Even with metal hoses, at work we had to run ground wires to the machinery being vacuumed to bleed off the static charges, which caused painful shocks to the operators. As long as the operators used the ground wire, no shocks. I had a similar situation with my oil fired water heater. When I did the annual cleaning (shop vac with a plastic hose) I'd get some brutal static shocks. A ground wire between the heater and vac cured that. So, I suggest that you try a grounding wire between the stove and vac, and make sure the vac is grounded.
 
Thanks for all of your help! The ground between stove and vac definitely helped.

On another note... just for the hell of it I checked behind the stove yesterday because the technician removed the flex duct from the OAK and left the duct behind it in case I wanted to put it back on... So I went to move it and store it elsewhere. This is where it gets interesting.

The attached photo is exactly how the OAK was attached. 2" duct from the back of the stove was inserted into 3" duct with tape to the OAK box. So this entire time it probably wasn't even getting air from the outside because the duct was compromised. And I paid $725 for installation and this is what I get
 

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Whats on the outside of your hose? Im betting her used a cap for a dryer/range hood outside and adapted it inside to work.. Probably did it for looks but their are far better ways to do it for looks..
 
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This is the exhaust they installed. I've wondered if this could be the main issue as far as the dirty burn goes
 

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I think I just figured out the problem. I have a Classic Bay 1200 FS... The installers attached the mounting plate for the OAK to the back of the stove instead of installing it into the hole on the floor of the stove
 
Installed on back of stove will not cause running problem,I do not think,but what it will do is draw outside air into the convection blower,making heat output of stove much lower.Poor installer.If yours is like this-
51323-14e1459e6682157f64046393e1bc99a1.jpg
it is wrong,should look like this--
proxy.jpg
 
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The spot on the inside floor is where it should go. Problem is the entire pedestal is part of the OAK and if you don’t seal all the joints inside the body and seal the pedistal to the hearth, the oak is just a costly useless addition. Not to mention it allows cold air into the house when the stove is not running. I have my vent 90 off the stove straight up 12 feet and i had to add quads damper to slow the draft down. Never seen a cb1200fs struggle to move air. Its perplexing
 
The spot on the inside floor is where it should go. Problem is the entire pedestal is part of the OAK and if you don’t seal all the joints inside the body and seal the pedistal to the hearth, the oak is just a costly useless addition. Not to mention it allows cold air into the house when the stove is not running. I have my vent 90 off the stove straight up 12 feet and i had to add quads damper to slow the draft down. Never seen a cb1200fs struggle to move air. Its perplexing


This may be a stupid question but to seal the pedestal to the hearth, can I just use a silicone or does it have to be heat rated to a certain temperature?
 
No my hearth/pedistal never gets hot. Clear silicone will work just use a small bead so it won’tbe unsightly. Yes follow Bobs links there are more seams and they will need high temp silicone
 
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If you read page 17 of your owners manual, it explains the oak installation. Most use a 26" rope gasket, to seal bottom of stove. If your house is real air tight, this could cause issues..kap