Quadrafire Classic Bay Keeps Shutting Down

[Gman12]

Hi, I need to see if anyone can help me get my stove back working right. After I start it up, it'll run for a bit and then shut itself down. It's been doing it for the last couple weeks. It could shut down after 5 mins or a few hours. I've cleaned the whole inside of the stove, the baffles, and even found a vent behind the right side of stove that I had to unscrew 4 screws to get to which was loaded full of ash that I cleaned completely out. The fans don't seem clogged from what I could see. I haven't cleaned the outside pipe vents though. Does anyone know what I can check or do to fix the stove from shutting itself down? Or what causes this? Thanks for anyone's help in advance.

 

[SwineFlue]

found a vent behind the right side of stove that I had to unscrew 4 screws to get to which was loaded full of ash that I cleaned completely out... I haven't cleaned the outside pipe vents though. Does anyone know what I can check or do to fix the stove from shutting itself down? Or what causes this? Thanks for anyone's help in advance.

My guess is that your outside vent pipe is as dirty as the adapter was (before you cleaned it).

 

[doingitonadime]

My quad shut down on me last year as I believed people who told me clean it once a year, bullshat I clean the pipe once every two weeks with the leaf vaccum and once a month with a brush, if you want your stove to last clean clean clean

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

According to the Tech manual, these would be the things to check-

F. STOVE RUNS FOR 10 MINUTES -- THEN STOPS FEEDING FUEL
1) CHECK THERMOCOUPLE
*GREEN LIGHT-------2.5 mVDC ( +.5mV)
*RED LIGHT-----------12.1 mVDC (+ 1mV)
2) ADJUST FEED ADJUSTMENT PLATE FOR LARGER FIRE
3) CHECK THERMOCOUPLE COVER
*COVER NEEDS TO TOUCH THE END OF THE T-COUPLE WIRE
*COVER SHOULD EXTEND 1 3/4” INTO FIREPOT
4) CHECK CONTROL BOX

I can send you a copy of the Quadrafire CB 1200 tech manual if you email [email protected] and say you were refered by the Hearth Forum. Just let us know if yours is a freestanding or insert.

 

[DexterDay]

If the vacuum hose has a small blockage, it will shut it down. Remove the vacuum hose from vac switch, and blow through it, towards stove. This will blow the fines out of the nipple on the auger flight/drop chute.

Make sure all your t-stat connections are tight and solid. There was a thread this Fall, that had a member with intermittent shutdowns. He had a small break in his stat wire (actually, a thread like this, happens yearly).

Make sure all snap disc connections are tight.

As for the venting, when was it last cleaned? That area behind the bottom right door (four screws) needs cleaned at least twice yearly, or every ton or so. The venting should be checked every ton too. Especially if you have a good amount of Horizontal (3ft or more of Horizontal). Make sure your termination cap is clean also. They get plugged up with ash rather quickly.

The thermocouple also, should be checked as noted above. The ceramic should protrude over pot edge at least a 1/2" or better and the Thermocouple itself MUST touch the inside end of the ceramic cover

My bet would be on a plugged exhaust, the term cap, thermocouple, or a vac nipple that has a small blockage that is playing games with your vac switch.

 

[Gman12]

Dexter, can you tell me where to look for the vacuum hose? I don't know what to look for. I actually cleaned the bottom right vent door with the 4 screws that you remove to get inside. It was caked with ash. That has been cleaned totally out. The vents going from the stove to the outside haven't been cleaned out yet. I've had the stove for about 2 years. So I was planning on doing that once I can find a good warm day without snow. Just so you know, I started the stove tonite at 7:04pm and it started right up and the auger I could see turning great and dropping pellets. Then at 7:18pm the stove was shutting down and the auger I could see had stopped turning and feeding pellets. Do you think I should throw on my jumper cable too and see if the stove shuts down? I'm thinking maybe the outside vents are pretty clogged and maybe the vacuum hose. Thanks for everyone's help so far. I really hope I can get this fixed quickly.

 

[DexterDay]

The vacuum hose can be gotten to, by opening the upper left side door, then removing the panel. Make sure you remove the hose from the switch and.blow through the hose, towards the stove. The hose connects at the auger chute.

2 other things. Have you checked the light sequence? It sounds like its the T/C not reaching temp? Is your feed gate opened enough to sustain fire? Not enough pellets and the system cant stay running? Did you make sure the T/C is touching the end of the ceramic cover? Is the cover sticking out into pot, so its hit by flame??

Also, the venting? 2 yrs and No Cleaning? That's a serious issue and may very well be your problem. The vent cap may be clogged? Or the system itself may be clogged? A plugged vent will also cause vacuum issues.

What is your venting set up? Is it direct vent? Up and out? Straight up?

Here is a pic of panel that needs removed to access the vac switch line (blow from switch end towards the stove, not towards the vac switch!!).

Also, follow these steps on the troubleshooting page? Do the proper color lights come on (control board). You will need to.lift the entire hopper, to see the control box inside the hopper/box.

I would open feed gate 100% to eliminate the fuel issue. And run on medium heat setting, to ensure your getting the T/C hot enough.

I would look into checking the cleanouts on your vent (if any) and definitely check the vents termination cap. Clean ASAP......

 

[Gman12]

My venting comes out back of the stove and straight out wall to the outside and then up. I haven't checked the light sequence yet. The cover to the T/C is over the burn pot. I did also push the wire into the cover to make sure it was all the way in. I've never adjusted the feed gate position since it was working beforehand, so that can't be the problem. Is the vents termination cap where you twist it to get into the outside vent to clean it easily? Is the vent termination cap the same as the vent cap? Also, when I test the proper color lights that come on in control board, do I need the stove to be running and I have the control box opened up or when stove went into shut down check lights? Thanks again for helping.

 

[DexterDay]

My venting comes out back of the stove and straight out wall to the outside and then up. I haven't checked the light sequence yet. The cover to the T/C is over the burn pot. I did also push the wire into the cover to make sure it was all the way in. I've never adjusted the feed gate position since it was working beforehand, so that can't be the problem. Is the vents termination cap where you twist it to get into the outside vent to clean it easily? Is the vent termination cap the same as the vent cap? Also, when I test the proper color lights that come on in control board, do I need the stove to be running and I have the control box opened up or when stove went into shut down check lights? Thanks again for helping.

Just because the feed gate worked before, doesn't mean its a set it, and forget it item.

With the build up that likely in the venting, you may need to adjust for that issue

The vent cleanout, it the Clean out T, that has the removable cap on the bottom. Remove the cap and clean vent.

The termination cap is just that. The cap on the end of the vent. And ash sticks to the screen and clogs them very easily. In one season its possible to plug. In two seasons? Its not likely, its almost probable that its plugged, along with the bottom of your.clean out T.

That bottom area behind your stove was prob pretty full after 2 seasons...

If you follow the list I provided, it tells you when the lights will come on (most is during start up).

The box, is inside the hopper. Open the large portion, not the small lid, the entire top. Then look in the crack or some have a hole, in the box on the left (again, I posted a pic of box your looking for). There will be a green light that will come on, shortly after flame is established. Then after the flame is going pretty good, the light will turn red. (NOT the call light on the side, this light must be seen inside the metal box, inside the hopper. Turn off lights in the room, to make them easier to see).

I would open the gate 100% and if you haven't emptied the hopper and vacuumed the fines from the bottom (done every month or every ton, per the manual)

Start stove (from cold). Make sure its been off at least 30 min. Then look at the sheets above and.follow.

Call light
Pellets drop
Pellets ignite
Pellets start to feed again
Green light at 200°
Then Red light at 500°-600°…
Stove should run till Call for heat is not needed.

Clean vent, cap, vacuum fines from hopper bottom (Quads auger leaves almost all fines at the bottom of hopper), open feed gate, and clean combustion blower and convection blower (should be done yearly).

The manual was put together for a reason. You paid a large amount of money for that stove. Do what the Manufacturer recommends and protect that investment.

I recommend reading the manual yearly until you are familiar with any and all cleaning and operating questions.

Hope you get it going, but I think that your vent is playing big on the stove not running.

 

[DexterDay]

Read this thread.... A guy who knows to clean his vent and cap, had problems. This thread is only a couple down from yours.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/rookie-mistake-didnt-check-vent-screen.107743/#post-1411450

It happens. Caps get clogged, but your vent (especially if its only 3") is likely plugged at the 90* when it turns up. If its 4", then the ash would have to be over 1/2" thick, to make it seem like 3" and should burn fine. But 3" vent needs cleaned at least once a year. But most say every ton, it should be done. Or at least check it, and gage it to your burning habits, vent set up, and ash content of the pellets your burning.

 

[Gman12]

Ok, I'll check this all out and my venting and then report back. Thanks Dexter as always for helping and all else who did also.

 

[DexterDay]

Ok, I'll check this all out and my venting and then report back. Thanks Dexter as always for helping and all else who did also.

No worries.... It's all a learning curve. But when you see what's in the vent, I hope you change your cleaning schedule.

As always. Happy to help

 

[Gman12]

Ok, I cleaned out the outside venting. There was a ton inside there. I tried to feed the lint eater brush from the outside vent and in towards the venting to stove but not sure how good I did there. It didn't get much out when I pulled the brush back out and I'm afraid I pushed it in and hopefully didn't clog anything. I can't pull my stove out to even try to push the brush from the inside vent connected to back of stove out to the Clean out T. What's the best way to get that part cleaned out? Would there be much ash from the piping from back of stove to Clean out T or would all of the buildup start at the Clean out T and up the pipe? Also the vacuum switch I found but it's hard to get off and I'm afraid I'm going to break it pulling on it to get it off. Whats the best way to remove it without damaging it? I tried to start the stove again with what I did from cleaning out vent and it went for 20 minutes and shut back down again. I just got done cleaning pellets out the hopper to vacuum out everything in there and make sure not filled with fines. Thanks in advance for anymore answers.

 

[doingitonadime]

you can remove the combustion blower to gain access but then u may need a gasket, or remove the cleanout to vaccum my only concern is the exhaust fan most likely has a lot of build up then needs to be removed, I actually purchased my 08 cb from a man who never cleaned it in two years so I bought it for 300 bucks he said it was scrap metal hasn't failed me yet after a deeeeeeeeeeep cleaning

 

[SwineFlue]

Ok, I cleaned out the outside venting. There was a ton inside there. I tried to feed the lint eater brush from the outside vent and in towards the venting to stove but not sure how good I did there. It didn't get much out when I pulled the brush back out and I'm afraid I pushed it in and hopefully didn't clog anything. I can't pull my stove out to even try to push the brush from the inside vent connected to back of stove out to the Clean out T. What's the best way to get that part cleaned out? Would there be much ash from the piping from back of stove to Clean out T or would all of the buildup start at the Clean out T and up the pipe?

Most of the ash will probably be at the bottom.

I think you said you had already removed the vent adapter to clean out the stove's exhaust. If you don't have room to get the straight Linteater shaft in there, Lowe's sells an "Imperial" brand pellet stove brush with a very flexible shaft. (The shaft actually comes coiled-up in a plastic bag.) You might be able to push this brush into the vent from the adapter side, uncoiling the shaft as you push the brush towards the Cleanout T.

 

[Gman12]

Ok, so if I open/take off that little door that has the 4 screws that I had already cleaned out...I can put the Linteater brush through there and then get out through the venting to the outside Cleanout T? I can try that. Did you also know if the vacuum hose can be pulled off to clean it out too without breaking or tearing it apart so I didn't have to buy a new one?

 

[DexterDay]

Ok, so if I open/take off that little door that has the 4 screws that I had already cleaned out...I can put the Linteater brush through there and then get out through the venting to the outside Cleanout T? I can try that. Did you also know if the vacuum hose can be pulled off to clean it out too without breaking or tearing it apart so I didn't have to buy a new one?

No. Not through the ash trap door. Actually remove the combustion blower. There are 6 1/4" screws that need to be removed. But you will need a new 6" round gasket for it, to put it back on.

As for the Vac line. Use a small pair of pliers and wiggle it back and forth. Worst case scenario, cut it, right after the switch (hose), then use the razor blade to cut the stuck part off. There is at least that much slack. Then it is like starting with new.

The area in your vent you didnt get is horizontal. That's where most ash builds up. Clean that area (get a new gasket and remove combustion blower) and make sure to blow out line.

Did you try and remove the hose from the stove end? Remove that end and poke a toothpick or paperclip through the nipple that is likely clogged with fines.

It sounds like a vac issue, feed issue (did you open gate 100%?), or T/C issue?

Unplug the stove. Then plug it back in, and look in the area I told you to look in the hopper yesterday (little box on the right side). Tell me what color light flashes as soon as you plug it in, and how many times it flashes in the first 60 seconds after plugging in.

 

[Gman12]

Dexter, I unplugged the stove for a second and plugged it back in. There was a quick 1 Red Light followed by 1 Blue Light. Then in the first 60 seconds there were 6 Blue Lights that flashed.
I didn't try to remove the hose from the stove end, but from the other end closest to back of stove that was connected to a metal box. I thought I was suppose to remove from that end and blow towards the stove to remove any stuff clogging it. I hadn't opened the gate 100% because I was cleaning out the pellets and all the fines first. What do the Light Patterns tell you that I got. I also have a rattling sound every time my stove starts up for close to 10 mins that comes from below where the vacuum switch is that spins around like a fan. Then it goes away. Anyway to get that to stop after too?

 

[DexterDay]

The 6 blue lights means the board is set correctly and the T/C is good.

As for the vac hose. You can remove from stove, but make sure you just clean the nipple the hose attaches to. Dont blow in the hose if you do it this way. This will ruin the vac switch. Its easier in my opinion to remove from vac switch and blow canned air through the line. But either way works.

As for the rattle, what setting are you running on? If its lower than High setting? Then.its probably the combustion blower stepping down in speed when the T/C hits 500° and the blower drops to your heat setting. The stove always starts the combustion blower in High, then after ignition and T/C meets temp, it steps down to.your slection.

 

[Gman12]

I was running the stove on the Low setting. We usually always run it on low. Should I start running it on the High from now on. Is that better? I'll work on getting the Vacuum Hose off and clean it. I'll see about getting a gasket so I can change that, remove combustion blower and clean out the ash with the Linteater. Do you think those last things should fix everything? How much does a gasket go for and should I go to a Hearth Shop to buy one or from a Hardware store? Thanks as always for your awesome help Dex.

 

[DexterDay]

I run on Low.... Always.

The stove always starts in high, then drops. Then when the motor speed changes and you are getting a vibration.

If you.look.close enough and/or tighten all screws, bolts, etc. You should be able to eliminate the rattle. My room air blower (convection) vibrated when.it kicked on. I had to loosen the 2 screws that hold it on and realign it. No more rattle.

The gaskets are cheap online. A few places for $6 a piece. But your local Hearth should have them in stock for $15 or under.

 

[Gman12]

So you run on low with the gate 100% open, right? I just looked up the combustion gasket and when I saw a picture of the combustion blower noticed its the first end of the combustion blower which rattles on me. The small round part that spins around that is right on the bottom door you open directly under the panel you remove to get to vacuum hose. One more thing, is this what the gasket I need looks like: http://www.amazon.com/QuadraFire-24...wer-Gasket/dp/B008PTUMLA/ref=pd_bxgy_la_img_y

Where do you buy your gaskets for $6.00? I'm finding them for anywhere between $12-14.

 

[DexterDay]

FleaBat has a bunch of good deals on cheaper parts.

The black cooling fan on the motor is rattling?

When was the last tike you cleaning off that black cooling fin? And also cleaned the metal cooling fin in front of the motot?

These should be cleaned at least twice a year to keep the motors cool and running at peak efficiency (dust on the blades ads weight and can possibly unbalance motor) Blowing out all motors and fans at least once yearly (end of year/Spring Cleaning shutdown) is a must to make sure you do your part, in giving the stove the longest and safest life possible.

And yes, I run on Low with gate open 100%... No fear of overfire on Low and I want max BTU out of the lowest setting. I like the "Low and Slow" method of heating. Contrary to what some say, my Quad burns just as good on low as it does on Med or High.

Here is the gasket. Will try and get link later if needed. Look up combustion blower gasket . This is the one you want. The round gasket. The one you linked, is if you remove the entire housing and motor. You want to just remove the.motor and plate (6 screws in a circle nees removed/ 1/4" head on them).

 

[Jaymaine34]

DEx if definitely they expert on this ! I just wanted to chime in on the low and slow part ( thanks again for all your help DEx ! )
I run mine wide open on low 90% of the time ( med when we get below 15 ) my house stays 75-77 all the time . Stove runs longer but is off just as much 90 minutes on 90 minutes off . I use less pellets ( less stove start ups ) and the whole house has a much more even heat . Besides the stove settings the stat is the key I have a swing set of 3 .
As I'm reading this thread I'm learning more and more !

 

[DexterDay]

Clean the combustion blower vanes and blow off motor.and.cooling fins.

Why cant you remove the vertucal section of vent outside? Take the 90° (Cleanout T) and vert section off (should be a few screws, then just twist off?)

As for the rectangular area, do you have a small long brush? Like one of these?

This is where a leafblower is very handy