While googling for cast iron I came across this site, and discovered the Q&A;section in which Question No. 1969 was addressed. The questioner asked if it was possible to seal the side vents in his fireplace, remove the Heatilator, and install a top damper in his firelace.
The answer given was "No", the questioner was told his suggestion was unsafe, and a very expensive alternative was offered which included pipes, iron work, and/or replacement with fake fire logs. I wish to explain what I did to my fireplace, very safely, successfully and satisfactorily.
I first took all the inside-measurements of the existing firebox of the heatilator. I wanted to preserve the dimensions, size and good function and draft of the fireplace.
I cut out the heatilator with an acetylene torch, and removed it in 4 or 5 smaller pieces. I cleaned out the hearth/firebox area with a broom and shop vacuum.
I then used the heatilator's existing damper to construct a new one out of 10 gauge steel plate. (This required a cutting torch and welder. I am not a steelworker and it was at first intimidating, but it turned out not to be too difficult since I already had the model from the heatilator, but a homeowner could always simply hire this work out.) The new damper was welded to a 4' wide by 4' high plate which was bent back towards the bottom of the chimney opening. This would guide the future firesmoke to the chimney.
The new damper was tack-welded into place above the future firebox by tacking it to the backside of the existing angle-iron (steel angle) which already supported the rock across the front of the fireplace opening, making it invisible.
Common brick and mortar was used to build-upward/inward to the dimensions which would allow a firebox of the original size after lining with firebrick. The common brick was taken up as far as possible inside, up towards the chimney flue, and almost to the new damper. The backface of the fireplace was "canted" or sloped forward at the same angle as the previous heatilator's upper back wall, towards the damper. The sides were straight up, but angled inward at the backwall exactly as the heatilator was previously. The backface was supported by first laying a length of 2" steel angle across the tops of the side-walls of common brick. (Think of a lentel.) Subsequent courses of brick were installed on top of that first one, each succeeding course protruding slightly forward at the required angle to provide for the correct slope.
After all was "cured" for a few days, a plywood mould-board was cut, and using scrap wood as supports, placed in front of the sloping backface of common brick. (This was only for the forward-sloping portion of the upper, backwall.) Wet mortar was spooned into the space created between the mouldboard and common brick, using a common garden hand-towel. This was to provide a solid backface-support for firebrick. Tapping the mouldboard with a hammer settled the mortar and eliminated bubbles/air-spaces. After a few days of further curing, I began to lay courses of firebrick.
The firebrick was cemented using commercial firebrick and fire-clay mortar. The last course was the most difficult as I had to carefully mitre the last bricks to snugly fit against the damper-surrounds. I placed that last course with generous portions of clay, and tightly pressed each brick firmly against the damper structure. The very last firebrick was installed by reaching through the open damper and pressing it forward from behind. Two days more curing.
Now, using a scaffold and some 4" PVC sewer pipe and a 45-degree PVC pipe angle, I mixed two bags of common mortar fairly wet, and using the 25'-long section of 4" plastic pipe, I poured mortar thru the pipe, down the chimney from above, directing the wet mortar into place behind the firebrick where it met the damper, and also poured mortar into place at the ends of the damper and on top of that top-course of common brick. By using a work-light stuck into the fireplace at the damper, I was able to see where I was pouring mortar and also position the 4" pipe to direct the poured mortar whereever I desired.
The entire area above the firebox, sides, and behind the firebrick was mortared-in in this fashion.
I waited two weeks for all the moisture to dissipate from all the work before my wife and I built our first fire in our new fireplace, which looked like it had always been a firebrick-lined fireplace. (Our home is an old hunting lodge built in the late 40's/early 50's, and the intent was to keep the originality of the place. It WORKED!)
I have pictures of the entire repair if anyone wishes to see them.
gahorn146ys (at) hotmail (dot) com
The answer given was "No", the questioner was told his suggestion was unsafe, and a very expensive alternative was offered which included pipes, iron work, and/or replacement with fake fire logs. I wish to explain what I did to my fireplace, very safely, successfully and satisfactorily.
I first took all the inside-measurements of the existing firebox of the heatilator. I wanted to preserve the dimensions, size and good function and draft of the fireplace.
I cut out the heatilator with an acetylene torch, and removed it in 4 or 5 smaller pieces. I cleaned out the hearth/firebox area with a broom and shop vacuum.
I then used the heatilator's existing damper to construct a new one out of 10 gauge steel plate. (This required a cutting torch and welder. I am not a steelworker and it was at first intimidating, but it turned out not to be too difficult since I already had the model from the heatilator, but a homeowner could always simply hire this work out.) The new damper was welded to a 4' wide by 4' high plate which was bent back towards the bottom of the chimney opening. This would guide the future firesmoke to the chimney.
The new damper was tack-welded into place above the future firebox by tacking it to the backside of the existing angle-iron (steel angle) which already supported the rock across the front of the fireplace opening, making it invisible.
Common brick and mortar was used to build-upward/inward to the dimensions which would allow a firebox of the original size after lining with firebrick. The common brick was taken up as far as possible inside, up towards the chimney flue, and almost to the new damper. The backface of the fireplace was "canted" or sloped forward at the same angle as the previous heatilator's upper back wall, towards the damper. The sides were straight up, but angled inward at the backwall exactly as the heatilator was previously. The backface was supported by first laying a length of 2" steel angle across the tops of the side-walls of common brick. (Think of a lentel.) Subsequent courses of brick were installed on top of that first one, each succeeding course protruding slightly forward at the required angle to provide for the correct slope.
After all was "cured" for a few days, a plywood mould-board was cut, and using scrap wood as supports, placed in front of the sloping backface of common brick. (This was only for the forward-sloping portion of the upper, backwall.) Wet mortar was spooned into the space created between the mouldboard and common brick, using a common garden hand-towel. This was to provide a solid backface-support for firebrick. Tapping the mouldboard with a hammer settled the mortar and eliminated bubbles/air-spaces. After a few days of further curing, I began to lay courses of firebrick.
The firebrick was cemented using commercial firebrick and fire-clay mortar. The last course was the most difficult as I had to carefully mitre the last bricks to snugly fit against the damper-surrounds. I placed that last course with generous portions of clay, and tightly pressed each brick firmly against the damper structure. The very last firebrick was installed by reaching through the open damper and pressing it forward from behind. Two days more curing.
Now, using a scaffold and some 4" PVC sewer pipe and a 45-degree PVC pipe angle, I mixed two bags of common mortar fairly wet, and using the 25'-long section of 4" plastic pipe, I poured mortar thru the pipe, down the chimney from above, directing the wet mortar into place behind the firebrick where it met the damper, and also poured mortar into place at the ends of the damper and on top of that top-course of common brick. By using a work-light stuck into the fireplace at the damper, I was able to see where I was pouring mortar and also position the 4" pipe to direct the poured mortar whereever I desired.
The entire area above the firebox, sides, and behind the firebrick was mortared-in in this fashion.
I waited two weeks for all the moisture to dissipate from all the work before my wife and I built our first fire in our new fireplace, which looked like it had always been a firebrick-lined fireplace. (Our home is an old hunting lodge built in the late 40's/early 50's, and the intent was to keep the originality of the place. It WORKED!)
I have pictures of the entire repair if anyone wishes to see them.
gahorn146ys (at) hotmail (dot) com
