Question about a burr on the edge of my chainsaw bar.

[sirlight]

I have noticed that I am getting a burr on the edge of my chainsaw bar. This bar has cut perhaps 25 cords of wood so far. I never noticed the burr before. Is this is just something that happens with regular wear, or if I am tightening the chain too much?

 

[salecker]

Yes it is a regular accurance
You should flip the bar over each time you use a new chain,or more if you are inclined.
Plus when you have the bar off you should do maintenance to it. Clean the grove out,file the edges and true up the surface that the chain runs on.
There is a tool for that specificly,which is quick and easy.I use a file for the edges and my 2x72 belt sander to true up the surface that the chain runs on.

 

[bholler]

I have noticed that I am getting a burr on the edge of my chainsaw bar. This bar has cut perhaps 25 cords of wood so far. I never noticed the burr before. Is this is just something that happens with regular wear, or if I am tightening the chain too much?

It is normal just file it off.

 

[sirlight]

Yes it is a regular accurance
You should flip the bar over each time you use a new chain,or more if you are inclined.
Plus when you have the bar off you should do maintenance to it. Clean the grove out,file the edges and true up the surface that the chain runs on.
There is a tool for that specificly,which is quick and easy.I use a file for the edges and my 2x72 belt sander to true up the surface that the chain runs on.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking, but wanted to be sure. I will just file it and clean things up next time I have the chain off the bar.

How do you know when it is time for a new bar?

 

[salecker]

Time for a new bar...
It depends on what you have to maintain it
Myself i have the 2x72 belt grinder sander i have for knives,turns out it is great for truing up bars.
My bars will get used till the drive links start to bottom out in the groove.
You can squeeze the rails in with a vice or a hammer when the groove gets loose,or up-size the gauge of your chain.
Some people even cut the bottom of the groove out when the chain bottoms out.
And you can replace the sprocket tip if it gets bad.
So you can get a lot of life from the bar,most people don't. They replace,they don't have the skill set to maintain or redo the bar.
I get a dozen or so bars a year from the dump,same with chains they get tossed all the time.

 

[sirlight]

Time for a new bar...
It depends on what you have to maintain it
Myself i have the 2x72 belt grinder sander i have for knives,turns out it is great for truing up bars.
My bars will get used till the drive links start to bottom out in the groove.
You can squeeze the rails in with a vice or a hammer when the groove gets loose,or up-size the gauge of your chain.
Some people even cut the bottom of the groove out when the chain bottoms out.
And you can replace the sprocket tip if it gets bad.
So you can get a lot of life from the bar,most people don't. They replace,they don't have the skill set to maintain or redo the bar.
I get a dozen or so bars a year from the dump,same with chains they get tossed all the time.

Thank you, great information.

I guess it comes down to what your time is worth. I have gotten much better at sharpening chains and that is certainly worthwhile. Hard to say if it is worth is to me to try and get every last bit of life out of a bar. At least I know not to toss them since someone could put them to new use. The dump is the very last place chains or bars should end up. Steel recycles so easily.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

You are using the 2in1 to sharpen the chain correct?

 

[sirlight]

You are using the 2in1 to sharpen the chain correct?

2in1? No idea what that is. I bought a fancy sharpening guide gizmo, but it was more trouble than it was worth.

I am using the correct size round file for the cutters and a flat for the rakers. I am doing the sharpening by hand. I just keep the round file parallel with the "line" on the cutter tooth and 90 degrees to the chainsaw bar. I file until each tooth is sharply pointed again while trying not to cut deeper into the chain. Most of the force on the file is toward the cutter tooth and maybe a little upward, not down toward the chain. This is with the bar clamped in a vise.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

@sirlight Give one a try ..you'll be amazed.. get the one for your chain size @ your local Stihl dealer or go thru that Internet thing ..Fford/Stihl 2in 1 .... all the same animal..