Question about basement thimble through drywall

[GunSeth]

Hi folks, you were very helpful regarding my chimney height thread and I'm hoping you can help me with a thimble question.

We're in the process of finishing our basement. I should have realized this sooner but our woodstove situation is going to need some upgrades before we can burn safely. Below is a picture of what it was like before the renovations began.

The basement is currently framed and I wanted to post pics but I can't find the damn digital camera cord. Hopefully I'll have current shots soon.

At any rate, I realize that with the stovepipe running through drywall, I'll need a thimble to safely handle the heat. The dryer vent currently in the pic is being moved off to the right. It looks like there currently is a thimble going through the metal sheet that covers what was once a window but it certainly won't be long enough to go past the drywall. Can you connect two thimbles together to achieve a safe connection? What kind of thimble would you all recommend in this situation?

The other issue I'm realizing is that the single stovepipe is not going to meet the clearance requirements once the sheetrock ceiling is in place. So I'm going to have to get double stovepipe. That I'm not as concerned about because I can do that after the basement is finished. I'm more concerned about the thimble since my carpenter will be putting the drywall up in a week or so.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Any way you could just enlarge the old window opening enough to drop the pipe down some?

I used the insulflue setup, but that required a piece of SS singlewall to go through it. Thus leaving you in the same position for the uninsulated part.

Matt

 

[GunSeth]

Any way you could just enlarge the old window opening enough to drop the pipe down some?

I'm not sure what you mean by dropping the pipe down. It would still need to go through the drywall. And enlarging the window isn't really an option - the walls are already studded and I'm not messing around with concrete demo. With the chimney already up on the outside, it's really about working with the existing chimney. I'm sure there are the right materials out there that will get the job done. I just don't know what they are!

 

[EKLawton]

go to the store and buy a new thimble that is longer and install it. Spending all that $ to remodel the Basement , U dont want to mess around with that and have trouble down the road.
As for the pipe take out the 90 and use two 45s with the second at the themble.

 

[GunSeth]

go to the store and buy a new thimble that is longer and install it.

What brand of thimble would you recommend?

 

[EKLawton]

what ever matches your chimney

 

[GunSeth]

what ever matches your chimney

Sadly I have no idea who makes my chimney - it was here when I bought the house.

This project is beyond my skill. Contractor is going to begin putting up drywall today and by Monday he should be done. I haven't taken down the old stove pipe yet so I'll have him just work around it and once he's done I'll find a professional who can make sure the new pipe and thimble is installed correctly. No point in taking any chances.

 

[GunSeth]

Finally got some pictures uploaded. Here's what it looked like after the studs went up. The sheetrock has since gone up and I've removed the single wall stovepipe - I hope to have pictures of that soon. I know it's counterintuitive to put the sheetrock up around the thimble only to have to take it down when I finally get the stove reconnected but basement renovation waits for no man!

In other news, the dryer vent that can be seen next to the stove pipe at the beginning of the thread has been moved further to the right away from the stove and has been boxed in as a closet. An unfinished workroom has been also been created from about 1/4 of the basement. The furnace is now in this workroom. Will "seperating" these two competing air sources improve the draft for this basement wood stove in any way?

 

[GunSeth]

The cold winds blow against our house, matched only by my wife's icy stare as our wood stove is still not hooked up! She demands wood heat and thus far I have failed her! I've some more pics to share with you all.

Here we see the current state of the stove. It is unused and unloved. Crap has been pushed into its personal space as we battled to get our house ready to host Christmas.

Below we see the view from further back. The washer and dryer are in that closet on the right. And the furnace is now in a seperate room behind those close hangers on the left. The stove is relegated to something of a hallway, but it actually has more room than I had originally feared during the planning stages.

The crux of my problem. Besides figuring out the thimble situation, there's only four inches from the ceiling. Not even acceptable clearance for double stove pipe!

 

[GunSeth]

Anyone have any idea how I can get around the stove pipe clearance issue? Would a heat shield around the pipe help or is the space just too small? I had planned to immediately put a 45 degree pipe out of the thimble to get away from the ceiling but there would still be the initial 4 inch problem. I could remove a bit of the drywall ceiling to increase the clearance to the joists but the wife isn't keen on that idea. Still, it might be the only option short of lowering the thimble hole (which would require a new hole in the cement and be a big hassle.)

Also, what about the other question I had above regarding competing draft devices: the dryer vent that can be seen next to the stove pipe at the beginning of the thread has been moved further to the right away from the stove and has been boxed in as a closet. An unfinished workroom has been also been created from about 1/4 of the basement. The furnace is now in this workroom. Will “seperating” these two competing air sources improve the draft for this basement wood stove in any way?

 

[southbalto]

Class A has an outside diameter of 8-9" and can be placed within two inches of combustables.

I'm thinking that's your best bet.

 

[southbalto]

you could possibly use the Class A through the wall and use a 30 degree elbow on the inside. That would get you 10-15" lower than the ceiling.

 

[GunSeth]

Ah, so continue the chimney pipe from outside and then switch to stovepipe when it can drop to reasonable clearance distance?

 

[southbalto]

if you do indeed have class a outside, I would extend it through the wall using the appropriate firestop/through the wall adaptor. Then I would try to angel it toward the stove using a class a 30 degree elbow.

 

[GunSeth]

So we hired a professional and now have an up to code install for our basement wood stove. They got rid of the shady through the window install and instead went through the concrete below it.

Things look much better in the basement now. Just have to fix the old hole.

The one unfortunate thing is that we weren't able to keep using single wall pipe. The chimney folks though we might be able to get away with it but after the new install job it just doesn't meet clearance where it connects to the chimney pipe. I'm a bit bummed but my wife is cranky as the cost for this project keeps going up. But I know in the end it'll be good knowing that everything is above board and ready to go for this burning season.