Question about clearances

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Sprinter

Minister of Fire
Jul 1, 2012
2,984
SW Washington
I need to minimize the floor space of whatever stove I get. Please take a look at this from Englander for the 13-NC: http://www.englanderstoves.com/manuals/13-NC.pdf

On page 6, would you comment on those figures? All the clearances are greater for installation with double wall pipe and shield than with single wall and no shield. Seems to make no sense. It looks like an error, but it's hard to believe it hasn't been caught and corrected by now.

Assuming a printing error, it shows a 10-inch rear clearance with double wall pipe and "heat shields". I think the shields they are referring to are optional side shields which would have no affect on rear clearance, just the side ones. My question is, can that 10" be further reduced with a cement board wall shield?
 
That same question comes up every so often. The consensus appears to be that the manual is correct. You might try looking at these threads:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-13nc-with-back-and-side-shields.16676/#208144

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...s-to-combustibles-confusion.60957/#post-60957

KaptJaq
Well, okay, I guess:confused: Thanks for the reply and links. According to thestoveguy2esw in the first of those threads, this is a unique situation where the testing agency that is charged with coming up with required clearances actually measured an increase in stove temperature with double wall pipe, apparently due to an increased draft from the insulated pipe getting hotter. So why only this stove and no other? Strange. In any case, apparently Englander is stuck with this for what ever reason.

My original question still stands, though. Can the clearance to the rear combustible wall be reduced by some kind of external shield?
 
page 9 covers this:

2. Wall Protection
Please see Illustration 1 for clearances to walls. In some areas local codes may require thirty-six inches (36”) from a combustible, therefore it is very important that you check with local officials. If you need to place your unit closer to a combustible wall, some protection will be necessary. If an approved wall board is used this will reduce your clearance by two thirds (2/3); however, a one inch (1”) air space has to be between the board and the wall. If you have a ceiling flue hook-up, you will need protection from the floor to the ceiling if you do not meet the normal clearances. If you have a wall flue hook up, you will need wall protection at least twelve inches (12”) above the wall thimble.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

Watch the hearth requirements for this stove too. It needs to be well insulated.
 
page 9 covers this:

2. Wall Protection
Please see Illustration 1 for clearances to walls. In some areas local codes may require thirty-six inches (36”) from a combustible, therefore it is very important that you check with local officials. If you need to place your unit closer to a combustible wall, some protection will be necessary. If an approved wall board is used this will reduce your clearance by two thirds (2/3); however, a one inch (1”) air space has to be between the board and the wall. If you have a ceiling flue hook-up, you will need protection from the floor to the ceiling if you do not meet the normal clearances. If you have a wall flue hook up, you will need wall protection at least twelve inches (12”) above the wall thimble.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

Watch the hearth requirements for this stove too. It needs to be well insulated.
Thanks. I didn't realize they required R2 insulation for the pad on these. I think R1.5 is more common? How much more expensive is an R2 pad? Is there any such thing as a free lunch? That Lopi with a clearance of 4 or 5 inches is looking better and better. Of course, it is much deeper, but at least it allows long N-S loading.
 
The Drolet Escape 1800 and the TrueNorth TN19 have square fireboxes and are affordable.
 
The Drolet Escape 1800 and the TrueNorth TN19 have square fireboxes and are affordable.
You know what really steams me? I was looking at the specs for the TN19 and see that the rear clearance is 6-1/2" for residential and 10" for "mobile home". I know this is not the manufacturer's doing, but why do "they" still treat all manufactured homes, even modern ones, as if they are all 10-foot-wide fire traps made 50 years ago with the wheels still on? Our house,for example, is better made than a whole lot of site built homes we looked at, using the same materials as most new site-built. I've seen some older houses that would have qualified for narrow clearances but probably would have self-ignited at the sight of a wood burning stove coming through the door. Surely there is a better way to adjust for various construction. I imagine that they are assuming that all site built homes are UBC built and all manufactured homes are not, but even the UBC is a moving target and what about all the older houses made to practically no code at all? Seems a bit arbitrary to me.

Rant over. I have to go pump up the tires on my house now.
 
... and what about all the older houses made to practically no code at all?

"practically"? ;lol I need to post some updated pictures of the inside of my fireplace. It will make your head spin!
 
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