I have an englander 13nc with back and side shields. What is the minumun length of a 24ga metal wall sheild spaced 1' from the the wall...to be placed behind the stove?
Englander 13NC with back and side shields
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Congratulations on getting the new stove. If you have some spare 6" smoke pipe consider lighting the first few fires with the stove outdoors and a short stack on it. That will burn off the oils and bake in the paint. It saves a lot of smoke in the house. Otherwise, be prepared to have all windows and doors open for the first couple fires.
The wall shield design will depend in part on the flue choice. If you go with single wall pipe up to an elbow and then out to an exterior chimney, you might want the wall shield to go all the way up to the chimney thimble where the stove pipe connects to the chimney. On the other hand if you use double-wall flue pipe and go straight up, then the wall shield doesn't need to go more than 10" above the stove flue collar I believe.
The wall shield design will depend in part on the flue choice. If you go with single wall pipe up to an elbow and then out to an exterior chimney, you might want the wall shield to go all the way up to the chimney thimble where the stove pipe connects to the chimney. On the other hand if you use double-wall flue pipe and go straight up, then the wall shield doesn't need to go more than 10" above the stove flue collar I believe.
JPapiPE said:
See my reply here:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/19168/
Basically if you have the side and rear heat shields, this allows the stove to be placed as close as 8 1/2" to a combustible surface....but if you have single walled pipe coming out of the stove, you'd need to put a heat shield on the pipe as well. Its less expensive, and better looking (IMO) than a wall heat sheild. I picked one up for $24.
The 8.5" dimension is for a corner installation I believe. Joe, is this also a corner installation? Maybe Mike or Corie can chime in here. The manual could be clearer by listing distances in the table for all the combinations of with shields and without, and with double-wall or pipe shield or not. And then also list the changes to these combos with an NFPA211 wall shield.
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BeGreen said:
Well, I think the limiting factor is the single wall pipe. It must be 18" clear of combustible walls. So with or without heatshields you must follow that.
Now that image you posted begreen... it lists tighter rear clearances without heatshields and with single wall pipe.... that doesn't seem right.
Yup, looks like its 12" from the back of the stove to a combustible surface but only 13" from the single wall pipe to combustible when only against a single wall. Strange that its 18" when in a corner though.......
The manual could use some improvements, especially considering it's targeted at DIY installs. Stove dimensions are missing too. That leaves too much for the user to wrangle out with the inspector.
Backpack09 said:
the diagram lists clearances that were specified by the testing agency for THE STOVE ONLY with no regard to the listings for the pipe. this means that the 18 inch clearance required for single wall pipe must be adhered to. so even theough the stove itself may be placed closer than 18 inches per the diagram it still cannot be that close due to the pipe. (personally i hate the way that diagram and clearance chart was done , but thats the way the testing agency said it had to be). now, as for the greater clearance with double wall pipe , double wall pipe retains more heat making the draft stronger , this makes the stove physically get hotter (or at least it did in testing , hence the greater required clearance.
i have to admit that the first time i read it i was on the phone to R/D with this same question , but it was explained to me then, and ive been explaining it ever since , i am pushing to get a more clear explanation as well as stove dimentions revised into the manual, they will likely be added in the next revision.
as for the 13 and any questions that need answered , fire away , i'll try to get em answered quickly.
BeGreen said:
BG is correct , the 8.5 is corner install
as for the "e" measurement, if the stove is placed in a dead on 45 degree install with the proper clearances , the hypotenuse of the angle would place the flue at this measurement.this is why the measurement of the pipe is farther than in a flat wall installation.
stoveguy2esw said:
BB - Eagerly awaiting somebody using the word "hypotenuse" on the local building inspector.
hh:
BrotherBart said:stoveguy2esw said:
BB - Eagerly awaiting somebody using the word "hypotenuse" on the local building inspector.
"redneck definition" of hypotenuse; knocks on outhouse door... HY? POT IN USE?????? :cheese:
I remember a long joke about indians and the different animal skins from which they crafted their teepees. Seems to me it went something like, "An old chief had three daughters, and they were all getting married. The chief had a teepee built for one daughter and it was covered with Buffalo hide. Another daughter's teepee was covered with Elk hide. The third daughter's teepee was covered with Hippopotamus hide. A year later or so, the daughter in the Buffalo teepee gave birth to a son. Shortly thereafter, the daughter in the Elk teepee did likewise. Then, the daughter in the Hippopotamus teepee gave birth to twin boys. The old chief was heard to proclaim, "You see, the squaw of the Hippopotamus is equal to the sum of the squaws of the other two hides." Or words to that effect. Rick
Groan :smirk: I can't believe I read that whole thing. Should have stopped the moment I read hippopotamus. They haven't been around North America for a long while.
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