Question about Firewood?

[Kankujoe]

Most of my previous burning has been outdoors. either campfire type fires or burning brush and stuff while clearing my yard. With these types of fires I just burned without regard for type or condition of wood. I assume that with a woodburning stove or furnace wood quality is critical for the desired results.

On my acreage I have a number of standing trees that have died the past two years or so. I also have some that have died, fallen or were blown over and are now down. These trees are definately not "green" since they are no longer living and have been leafless for atleast a few years but, are these trees "seasoned" or do they need to be cut up, split and stacked to be seasoned.

 

[savageactor7]

Well you always want to burn seasoned wood indoors to prevent creosote buildup. And being a landowner you want to cut those dead trees up 1st...they'll burn fine.

Cut your dead trees, biggest trees, then trees with a split crotch or multi trunked. Now all those little trees will grow better...and ya can cut them 15 20 years down the road.

 

[11 Bravo]

Probably not ready for the stove. Even if it is dead and on the ground for a few years, it will need to be cut, split, and stacked to dry. I just did some dead red elm last month that was on the ground and it was at 37% on the moisture meter. So, should be ready in November.....

 

[Todd]

Depends on the species of trees that are dead. Oak is notorious for holding it's moisture for many years after being cut down or standing dead. If it has loose or lost most of the bark it should be pretty close to being dry, but it's still best to buck it up, split and stack it off the ground.

 

[RAY_PA]

I'd like to know more about moisture levels for better burning. I just ordered a moisture meter, and have no idea what I am doing.
Thanks.

 

[RedRanger]

I'd like to know more about moisture levels for better burning. I just ordered a moisture meter, and have no idea what I am doing.
Thanks.

When you use your new moisture meter to check your firewood, split a piece in half again, then check the inside split, and ideally it should read 20%. It doesn`t have to be exactly 20%, you can be a little higher or lower. It is easier to take a cordless screwdriver out with you to drill the holes before inserting the probes (less likely to break or bend the tips). Don`t just test one piece, test a half/dozen or so while you`re at it.

A handy little tool imho ;-)

 

[fossil]

...A handy little tool imho ;-)

I agree with everything sonny said. I have a meter and I find it useful. If you go over to the "Gear" forum, you'll find the subject has been discussed ad naseum there...just go there and do a search for moisture meter. Rick

 

[Carl]

Usually if it sizzles in the fire I know it is too wet and open the draft up full to get it to burn.

I see a lot on here use a moisture meter but that is more technical than I want to get. If it is cracked on both ends and not as heavy as a green piece than I assume it is ok to burn. Another thing I do is knock on the end of it with my knuckles and if it sounds hollow it is uaually dry. You don't need to test all pieces or your knuckles may get sore.

I did poo poo the handheld heat tester tooted about here but must be getting soft as I did purchase one of those. I use it on more than the stove but it seems like a good investment so maybe someday I might spring for a moisture meter too.

 

[RedRanger]

Usually if it sizzles in the fire I know it is too wet and open the draft up full to get it to burn.

I see a lot on here use a moisture meter but that is more technical than I want to get. If it is cracked on both ends and not as heavy as a green piece than I assume it is ok to burn. Another thing I do is knock on the end of it with my knuckles and if it sounds hollow it is uaually dry. You don't need to test all pieces or your knuckles may get sore.

I did poo poo the handheld heat tester tooted about here but must be getting soft as I did purchase one of those. I use it on more than the stove but it seems like a good investment so maybe someday I might spring for a moisture meter too.

Yep__ learned my lesson with my cedar mill ends. after a while seemed nice and light to pickup, then try and burn, and nothing but smoldering. test with the meter, and low, and behold, 38% moisture. of course, they were delivered wet. but still ya would think , dry quickly ,, not neccessarilyl.

Maybe it is more usefull for softwood burners, I don`t know? I do know that between the moisture meter and the insert already telling me it aint ready, ,, I just say, trust the moisture meter. ;-)

 

[fossil]

...I did poo poo the handheld heat tester tooted about here but must be getting soft as I did purchase one of those. I use it on more than the stove but it seems like a good investment so maybe someday I might spring for a moisture meter too.

I own a lot of things that I once poo-pooed. Some of them I actually use. I find that the older I get, the more attached I become to hydraulics, among other things. Some of the "gadgets" are pretty durned useful. Call it "Assisted Burning". Rick

 

[Carl]

...I did poo poo the handheld heat tester tooted about here but must be getting soft as I did purchase one of those. I use it on more than the stove but it seems like a good investment so maybe someday I might spring for a moisture meter too.

I own a lot of things that I once poo-pooed. Some of them I actually use. I find that the older I get, the more attached I become to hydraulics, among other things. Some of the "gadgets" are pretty durned useful. Call it "Assisted Burning". Rick

Right Rick........and I own a few things that were quite useful and now get poo pooed. ROTF