Question on clearances for the woodstock fireview?

[RIDGERUNNER30]

I have been on woodstock's website, looking at all the clearances specs, I noticed that the stove vents out of back instead of the top. my question is if a man uses 1/2 inch cement board on the floor and on the back of wall with tile installed on it with a gap space between the wall and cement board how close can you install this stove and be safe also use double wall pipe to? I wanting to install it in the corner, but i could install it in the center just wondering, I don't want to take chances with my family with a careless install

 

[Todd]

If you follow the manual you can get the stove as close as 12" with a proper wall shield. Found this in manual.

Clearance Table For Fireview Stove
Type of Protection Stove Back Stove Sides Stove pipe
No Protection 30” 18” 20”
3 1/2” thick Masonry Against 20” 14” 16”
Combustible Wall*
3 1/2” thick Masonry with 12” 7” 12”
1” ventilated airspace*
24 ga. sheet metal with 1” 12” 7” 12”
ventilated airspace*
1/2” thick non-combustible 12” 7” 12”
insulation board with 1” airspace*
UL Listed Rear Heat Shield and 18” 18” 10”
36” vertical stack shield (back only)
*These clearances meet or exceed requirements of NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys,
Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances.

 

[Todd]

What is kind of confusing about this table is the stove pipe clearance which is the same 12" as the stove back, but I'm pretty sure they mean single wall pipe and if you go with double wall you should go by the manufactures specs. Best to ask Woodstock to be sure. They could do a better job of explaining these clearances imo.

 

[RIDGERUNNER30]

Thanks Todd for the information , I like the idea of being able to get the stove a little closer to the wall, 1/2 inch cement board and 1/2inch gap is what I will be shooting for. This will be my spring project after I get the kitchen redone , my wife has been on to me for two years to fix the kitchen up.

 

[Highbeam]

Don't get all happy yet, I've been down this road too and the rear clearance requirements are huge for this stove unless you are backing up to a masonry chimney. Lets assume you are going into a vertical flue. You'll never get the back of the double wall pipe any closer than 6" to the combustible surface. The double wall has it's own heat shield so additional shielding doesn't buy you anything. Then the double wall flue outside diameter is 7". Then you need to somehow get to the rear outlet of the stove which requires at least a few inches of horizontal pipe, say 5 but probably more. You're now at least 18" from the wall. This stove will not tuck against a wall, it sticks way out where really it will work better to radiate heat from the sides but not so good if you don't want it in the middle of the room.

There's a fella posting right now that just did this install and can give real numbers.

 

[Todd]

Don't get all happy yet, I've been down this road too and the rear clearance requirements are huge for this stove unless you are backing up to a masonry chimney. Lets assume you are going into a vertical flue. You'll never get the back of the double wall pipe any closer than 6" to the combustible surface. The double wall has it's own heat shield so additional shielding doesn't buy you anything. Then the double wall flue outside diameter is 7". Then you need to somehow get to the rear outlet of the stove which requires at least a few inches of horizontal pipe, say 5 but probably more. You're now at least 18" from the wall. This stove will not tuck against a wall, it sticks way out where really it will work better to radiate heat from the sides but not so good if you don't want it in the middle of the room.

There's a fella posting right now that just did this install and can give real numbers.

Try one of these Highbeam, maybe it will get you closer?

http://store.woodstove.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16516&cat=289&page=1

 

[Highbeam]

They, WS, sell metalbestos stuff and I have all simpson stuff. Is that the same "loose fitting" and "sloppy" piece that Chad used from WS? If the OP of this thread is using simpson double wall then the appliance adapter adds 4.5 inches plus the length of the tee snout. Simpson double wall seems to be non-ideal for trying to shove a fireview against the wall.

Do you all suppose that the simpson ceiling support box can be hooked to metalbestos connector pipe? Are these things universal?

 

[Chad S.]

I have been on woodstock's website, looking at all the clearances specs, I noticed that the stove vents out of back instead of the top. my question is if a man uses 1/2 inch cement board on the floor and on the back of wall with tile installed on it with a gap space between the wall and cement board how close can you install this stove and be safe also use double wall pipe to? I wanting to install it in the corner, but i could install it in the center just wondering, I don't want to take chances with my family with a careless install

I have some pics on the site with mine runnin and when you look at the pic, the back of the stove pipe is exactly 6 1/8" from the CUMBUSTIBLE wall not the wall shield. I needed the wall shield (which just needs the stone on it) because with the stove pipe only 6" from the wall the back of the stove is 15-16" from the wall and the front is exactly 3' from the wall. The selkirk double walled tee and crappy adapter make the total unit 30". The adapter does have a loose fit but when you get the three 1/2" metal screws in everything its very solid. Like Highbeam said, the simpson adapters make the unit a lot longer and no one knows if you can make the 2 brands work together. For spacers on the wall whield I used metal studs flat against the wall obviiosly vertically so the wall is actually 1 and 1/4" off the wall. When you measure the clearances with the wall shield you measure as if the wall shield is not there and remember the wall shield does not apply to the stove pipe at all (as far as I can see in the manual).

 

[Todd]

Highbeam,
I know what I'd do if I was serious about buying a Fireview and had clearance issues with Simpson pipe. Buy the WS adapter and see if will work, if not send it back or look into some local metal fab guy to make an adapter that will work. But what if you buy the Fireview and they come out with their larger stove next burning season?

 

[Highbeam]

I don't own the tee either and since the WS is factory direct I need to rely on the interweb for someone to do the install. The one fella, rustyford I think, that did install the simpson tee on the back had to use the simpson 5" appliance adapter that Ron from Woodstock said was required in his post here. If we could have one member of the large and growing fireview club install the DW pipe (metalbestos) that WS sells in a tight vertical flue configuration without sloppy fittings then we could get the measurement. The pipes should all fit tight and not depend on the screws to remove the slop. Is the issue the odd WS flue collar? My heritage takes the DW pipe directly without an adapter and it's a nice wedge fit with no slop at all.

Unless we can find an install that went well then I'll just have to wait and see what the new WS stove looks like. I would be pretty excited if it looked more like an oversized keystone with the vertical flue and had modern clearances. I could care less if this stove is more efficient than the fireview, I hope they don't screw up their slow burn with non-cat features. Nothing on their website yet.

It is unfortunate that the BK is so ugly.

 

[Todd]

Yeah, your right, an adapter is required for double wall pipe, must be the funky WS exhaust collar. I can understand your frustration. Maybe start a new thread about adapters and double wall connections so some of these knowledgeable dealer types can give some advice? I'm sure glad I can get away with single wall.

 

[Chad S.]

Highbeam, The adapter from woodstock fits very good inside of the flue. Its a really tight fit. The sloppy part is the fit of the tee over the adapter... The adapter goes between the walls of the double wall pipe so there is some play. You shove the adapter in the flue then screw it in with some 1/2" screws, then shove the tee on so the adapter goes between the walls on the double wall pipe. You have to hold the tee i place then screw into the outer wall and into the adapter. I was careful to not penetrate the inside wall of the tee. You also must pre-drill the holes in the adapter cause its stainless steel and pretty thick maybe, 20 gauge. The ugly or sloppy part is how the outer wall of the tee fits over the adapter, I couldn't get the tee pushed on the adapter far enough to cover the flue because the stove pipe would not have been plumb so If you look closely you can see the adapter. I hav to angle the tee back 1/8" to make it plumb so you can see a bit of the adapter on the top. I should have pushed it on so the adapter was evenly covered up and just angled the stove pipe back instead cause it would have looked better. I really don't look at the back of the stove anyway. I'll try to get a pic up cause its really hard to explain. Beleive me, once the tee is on the unit with the adapter it WON'T move. Look on the website and you'll see it under the double wall pipe section as a flue collar adapter (I think is the name). I shouldn't say its bad or sloppy cause you can get it to fit very nice and Eventually I may adjust mine so it fits better but it works just fine so I probably won't.

 

[Todd]

The question of the day for Highbeam is, will the Woodstock adapter fit his Simpson double wall pipe?

 

[Chad S.]

There is only one way to find out and It will cost him 20.

 

[Highbeam]

More than that. I don't have the tee either. You'd think that on this whole interweb that somebody would have done it.

Sorry for the hijack RR.