Question on resizing splits

[JCass]

I have recently discovered that my stove runs quite a bit better when loaded N/S. Unfortunately, All the wood I have split is for loading E/S. I have been cutting some splits with a hand saw, but would like to know if any of you could recommend a faster method for trimming these splits?

Thanks.

JC

 

[basod]

You can build a log saddle criss-cross 2x6's and attach them together slightly shorter than the wood currently is.

My best burning comes from N-S lower layer then E-W then another N-S if I have room.

 

[blujacket]

I bought a cheap 12" compound miter saw @ Harbor Freight to cut down any long splits I have.

 

[JCass]

I bought a cheap 12" compound miter saw @ Harbor Freight to cut down any long splits I have.

I have a miter. Maybe I will by a cheaper blade. Good idea.

 

[Boom Stick]

I use a beater circular saw and it works well. I did a lot like that last year. You gotta make two maybe three passes on each piece and watch for kickback. Lots of dust and lots of smaller cut offs. Basically it is not safe and messy. A miter saw from cheapo harbor freight is a good idea especially with their coupons. beat it to death and toss it. I have seen these boxes made of 2x4 and plywood built on a stand. build it deep as you need......wide as you need for your bar and stack splits in it....I would use some sort of tie down to hold wood from moving while cutting and trim a bunch down at same time with chainsaw. I just came in from working on a pile of stuff I cut up last year...all eye balled and all random lengths....some stuff I can't believe I even cut that long. Rookie year. I actually cut some pieces that won't go in e/w???? Now I mark everything prior to bucking and it is all the same size. Some people say it is all btus who cares but I think things are much easier, neater and efficient when done the same everytime. Good luck. Let us know what set up you choose.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I cut down a bunch of stuff this fall using a milk crate and a ratchet strap. Load the crate, tie it in and tip it on its side. Cut to length. The crate worked good as we wanted a 16" length.

Others have posted pictures of jigs they built to do this so you might want to do a search if others don't post on this thread.

 

[Wood Duck]

I put mine in the sawbuck, strap them together with a bungee cord, and use my chainsaw.

 

[TreePointer]

Search: H-FRAME

(There are pictures in those discussions)

 

[jeff_t]

This is what I built. Works well.

 

[TimJ]

That's more work than I would want
Your moving wood 4 more times and cutting it one more time to boot

 

[jeff_t]

That's more work than I would want
Your moving wood 4 more times and cutting it one more time to boot

I didn't cut it 2' with the intention of cutting off 6-7" later. I was burning in a furnace that would take a 2'+ split, so it is what it is. I'll be through all that in a month or two, then into wood cut for my stove.

 

[gmule]

I bought a cheap 12" compound miter saw @ Harbor Freight to cut down any long splits I have.

I use my compound miter saw too. I also use it to cut the 3" and smaller branches and saplings as well.

 

[Boom Stick]

This is what I built. Works well.

View attachment 83162

This is what I mentioned earlier...nice. What size bar on your saw? How wide is your rack?

 

[jeffesonm]

I have to do the same with a bunch of wood I collected before I had a stove. I made one of the racks like jeff_t above and it goes pretty quick to chop em down with the chainsaw. Seems like it's worth the extra effort to cut them rather than try to fuss with diagonal loading, don't fit in the firebox, pushing around half flaming logs trying to get it all packed in there...

 

[Pallet Pete]

This is what I built. Works well.

View attachment 83162

You will have to bring that bad boy over here Jeff

Pete

 

[jeff_t]

This is what I mentioned earlier...nice. What size bar on your saw? How wide is your rack?

That's a 28 in the pic, but I made it to work with a 20. Depends on what I want to run that day. It's 16" deep, so I have room for error. I run the dogs an inch or so away from the frame and they end up about right.

You will have to bring that bad boy over here Jeff

Pete

I'm about done with the box. You can have it, but it doesn't come with the saw

 

[curber]

I'm going to just stay out of this one and keep filling my bins! Pat

 

[bboulier]

curber,

How do you make those bins? I can see some uses other than firewood. I see pallets in the background. That's what I usually use.

 

[SolarAndWood]

same basic idea but metal...ratchet straps are key.

 

[curber]

The bins are a 275 gallon tote tank with the liner removed.
Like the one pictured.

 

[JCass]

same basic idea but metal...ratchet straps are key.

I went with something similar except made of wood. Made short work of a large stack of splits. Now sized for N/S loading and burning much better that way. Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[swagler85]

same basic idea but metal...ratchet straps are key.

Boy that metal would scare me, on mine I run my saw close to the uprights and hit them at times. I would ruin a chain on a metal stand.
But yours will long outlast my wooden one by a long shot.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Boy that metal would scare me, on mine I run my saw close to the uprights and hit them at times. I would ruin a chain on a metal stand.
But yours will long outlast my wooden one by a long shot.

That is the trade off. The nice thing about using metal and the ratchet straps is the wood does not move at all while you are cutting it. The frame is about 4' tall and you cut both sides every time you start the saw for a pretty decent sized batch. I cut well away from the metal and it is pretty fast with the 24" bar.

 

[swagler85]

That would work well, mine is about 4' tall but only one side. I made mine 15" deep and then cut just outside of that to get my 16" pieces, sometimes hit the 2x4 though but no biggie I can replace them easily