FuegoForte
New Member
Thank you for all the info, Coaly!!
I may have a rare variant of the Honey Bear. I can find no holes anywhere on the stove near or on the doors. Looks like those "air wash vents are it for intake. No regulating amount - unless I crack the door. Unfortunately, it also means I cant cut off air completely, either.
No pedestal vent with rod, either.
Those air wash vents seem like they could be modified to push in and out. (pic)
Hmmmm... Maybe solid doors with the spinner vents would be better. I have seen pics of a Honey bear door with those top & bottom door sliders you describe. Doesn't look like I have 'em. (pic)
I wonder what year this was made?
I do have a baffle plate resting (lightly welded?) on angle iron, just below the outlet. Looks like someone took an acetylene torch and cut the center out. IDK. A new, stainless plate will sit on that angle iron just fine. (pic)
Whoever re-did the firebricks in the stove, long ago, used that refractory goop under the floor bricks. I have had to use an air hammer to chisel them out. I cut across like brownies then hit them with a mason's hammer. worked pretty well. Out in chunks, but out.
The rivet heads for the door hinges have been welded to the stove body side of the hinge. (pic) I am thinking that if I angle grind the heads (and weld) off sufficiently, I should be able to punch the pin through vs drilling. I like to heat up rusty bolts, pins, nuts, etc, to almost red with a mild propane torch, then shoot some PB blaster on it. Capillary action sucks in the pb down deep. Then I wait a day or so to let it soak. If hand tools dont nudge it loose, repeat if necessary. I have a '60s Chevy I am restoring, and I have not broken a bolt yet.
Again, Thank you!!
I may have a rare variant of the Honey Bear. I can find no holes anywhere on the stove near or on the doors. Looks like those "air wash vents are it for intake. No regulating amount - unless I crack the door. Unfortunately, it also means I cant cut off air completely, either.
No pedestal vent with rod, either.
Those air wash vents seem like they could be modified to push in and out. (pic)
Hmmmm... Maybe solid doors with the spinner vents would be better. I have seen pics of a Honey bear door with those top & bottom door sliders you describe. Doesn't look like I have 'em. (pic)
I wonder what year this was made?
I do have a baffle plate resting (lightly welded?) on angle iron, just below the outlet. Looks like someone took an acetylene torch and cut the center out. IDK. A new, stainless plate will sit on that angle iron just fine. (pic)
Whoever re-did the firebricks in the stove, long ago, used that refractory goop under the floor bricks. I have had to use an air hammer to chisel them out. I cut across like brownies then hit them with a mason's hammer. worked pretty well. Out in chunks, but out.
The rivet heads for the door hinges have been welded to the stove body side of the hinge. (pic) I am thinking that if I angle grind the heads (and weld) off sufficiently, I should be able to punch the pin through vs drilling. I like to heat up rusty bolts, pins, nuts, etc, to almost red with a mild propane torch, then shoot some PB blaster on it. Capillary action sucks in the pb down deep. Then I wait a day or so to let it soak. If hand tools dont nudge it loose, repeat if necessary. I have a '60s Chevy I am restoring, and I have not broken a bolt yet.
Again, Thank you!!