questions about napoleon 1402 insert before i buy

[crawfish]

I'm so glad I found this site and thankful for all the info on it! I just got rid of my old Timberline wood insert that was just slipped in my brick fireplace that had no liner at all. Certified chimney sweep came this morning and said chimney is in good shape and after a thorough cleaning will be installing a homesaver ultra pro ss liner. After reviewing many an insert and seeing all the positive things people have had to say about the Napoleon 1402, I think this will be my choice. However, I just had a couple questions I was hoping owners of this insert could answer. First, how difficult (and what all is involved) when it comes to cleaning the liner and getting the creosote to fallout in the firebox?. Next, are there internal parts that need to be replaced and if so how often do they typically need replaced and how expensive are they? Thanks in advance, crawfish

 

[ControlFreak]

Crawfish,

1. When you clean your chimney, you will need to simply reach into the firebox and lift the two top refractory panels and tilt them a bit to take them out of the stove. Then any debris from the chimney will drop right down into the firebox. Can't be any easier.
2. As far as wearing parts: There are two gaskets: The one around the door, and the one around the glass. I've run a 1401 for 12 years and replaced the glass several times (I used ammonia-based cleaners which etches the glass till I figured out what was going on), and the door gasket once. If you use non-ammonia based glass cleaner, your glass will stay nice and clear. I'm pretty picky about clean glass, so if the glass develops a little hazy look to it, I replace it. The glass is pricey at about $130 last time I replaced it a few years ago, but if that's all it costs for regular maintenance, I can't complain.

From what I've seen so far, the 1401/1402 is a very clean burning (maybe the best) unit, and one of the lowest maintenance stoves around. Napoleon makes the only stoves that inject the secondary air from the center out to the sides over the refractory panels, creating a strong swirling secondary combustion. Sometimes it looks like a natural gas fire with flames shooting out from the secondary air manifold.

I load it up on 8-9 hour intervals with ample coals to restart.

Dan

 

[crawfish]

Dan,

Thanks a million for the helpful info. I know very little about the operation of newer wood inserts, but it doesn't sound like there is anything very difficult about operating or maintaining them. I have asked several co-workers who heat with wood and they all have Quadra-Fire stoves which I'm sure are also very good but a little out of my price range. They all bought them more for looks with the 24k gold plate trim, but as for me all I really want is a simple to use, reliable wood burner that will really put out some heat. And from//www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/foru what I gather I don't think I will be dissapointed. Thanks again Dan

 

[ControlFreak]

Crawfish,
It sounds like you have some experience with older non-EPA stoves. The biggest thing you're going to notice is that the EPA stoves are more sensitive to moisture. EPA stoves operate on less air. Moist wood will need a lot of air to keep a flame going. You need to make sure that you plan ahead and have an ample supply of wood that is nice and dry. So buy your wood now if you want to have any hope of using it for fuel this winter. Ideally, you buy your wood now for the fall of 2010.
Dan

 

[crawfish]

Dan,
I have already begun splitting some mixed red and white oak rounds (16" pieces) that have been sitting uncovered in my backyard for over a year. If they are kept dry all year till this fall do you think they will be dry enough? You're right, even if the stuff I burned before was a little wet it still prodeced ample heat, sounds like this will be a little different ballgame.
Tim

 

[ControlFreak]

Dan,
I have already begun splitting some mixed red and white oak rounds (16" pieces) that have been sitting uncovered in my backyard for over a year. If they are kept dry all year till this fall do you think they will be dry enough? You're right, even if the stuff I burned before was a little wet it still prodeced ample heat, sounds like this will be a little different ballgame.
Tim

Tim,
Your oak, cut over a year ago, then split this spring should be just fine by this fall.
Dan