Quick EKO acting strange
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trehugr said:
Too much small dry wood. Produces too much wood gas. Shut it down for a while, then restart. May have to do a few cycles.
really ?! Im not home, and she said the temp is in Idle mode at 195. If she shuts it off wont it overheat ?
Yeah - forgot that standard EKO you lose the circ when the controller is down. Try turning the temperature setpoint all the way down instead. If the new controller doesn't allow that easily, shut down for 5 minutes, then run for a few and so on until it settles down.
I wired the pump to an "emerg" switch for occasions like this. Told my daughter to shut off the EKO and turn on the pump.She did that for 5 min however its still in Work mode at 193 degrees. So is it gonna be ok NoFossil ? I did use a bunch of small wood this morning.
Tell her to leave it off except for the circulator. Even if you have a small air leak and the fire smolders, the moving water will keep it cool enough to not do any damage. Give it a hour or so and then have her turn it back on and check the temp.
Does the EKO have a damper you can cut down? With dry, dry wood I have to cut my intake damper down or add some wetter wood to even things out.
I think that the puffing is depend on the primary air is lett in to high in the fireroom.
I know many people that have problems that all the wood in the boiler ignite.
Not just the bottom layer
In this tread you can se pictures of an Orlanski boiler where they moved the primary air to the bottom of the fireroom.
10 holes let the air in.
The boiler runs much better after this change.
Some change have been done to the ceramic afterburner to.This is a stainles steal plate.
Its going to be change to ceramic
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/biobraensle/103104-moddad-orlan-40-a.html
I know many people that have problems that all the wood in the boiler ignite.
Not just the bottom layer
In this tread you can se pictures of an Orlanski boiler where they moved the primary air to the bottom of the fireroom.
10 holes let the air in.
The boiler runs much better after this change.
Some change have been done to the ceramic afterburner to.This is a stainles steal plate.
Its going to be change to ceramic
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/biobraensle/103104-moddad-orlan-40-a.html
Hansson said:
I'm afraid that computer based translation of the referenced forum post leaves something to be desired:
Mine Orlan 40 bought I in other hand and I has done a part changes against how it there original. The pan goes against 1st acktank on 3 kubik what I think is in the smallest team.
The governor was broken so I govern the fan and the pan with a double thermostat and laddomatens smoke gas thermostat (50-500grader). Dubbeltermostaten is suspended on approximately 95grader. Rökgastermostaten on approximately 95-100 degrees (initial and halts of laddomat and fan). The rate on the fan governs I with a common varvtalsregulator.
Förbränningskammaren (lower keramikstenarna) believes I am not optimumly designed so I have labbat a great part with finding a better, above all with a broader mould. Now, I drive with one entire in stainless as I klåpat together of little scrapyard from the job. It functions really good and gives a longer road for the smoke gases.
Sotningsmekanismen that in my pan was of long springs has I picked away. Sweeps now with Solo innovas borrviska (however extended in order to fit Orlans longer tubes). Has own home done carpentry turbulatorer that I however will try other shapes on.
Skorstenen is one Isokern double module that feature is regulated with a kilowatt Z 150 in order to hold it våldsamma the feature in chess.
After that Andres here on the forum where kind to send me some pictures innefrån itself Solo Innova so has I moved down utblåsen for the primary air so that one now decreases the risk for övertändning in vedmagasinet, what orginalutförandet in Orlan is as done for. Now, I distribute the primary air via 10-talet holes uniformly after the long sides and jisses which difference it became . The pan goes very more even and lugnare. No pushes here not.
Longer forward so is I the draws on assembling a separate fan for the secondary air that goes to govern via it lamdasond. But it sheep the desire and the future show.
However, I think the basic idea comes through. I understand the ideas for both the lower primary air inlets and for the secondary chamber labyrinth. I don't understand the design of the labyrinth, though. It does look like it would make ash removal much easier. I'd be VERY interested in finding what refractory material he can find that will survive in that environment with anything less than a 2" (50mm) cross section.
I'm using firebrick splits (1-1/4 inch thick) in my stove for the beginning channel. Seems to hold up alright. They get hot enough that when the stove is really going (Pre-HX temps around 1450F) they will glow a brilliant yellow.....
Haven't fallen apart yet!
Haven't fallen apart yet!
Hansson said:
Thanks - very interesting. I wonder how hot his door gets? Mine got too hot until I added another baffle to deflect the hot gas towards the back of the boiler.
I had poor luck getting stainless steel to last very long, though. Seems like the copper leaches out of it at temperature. I'd be interested to see if he can find a ceramic that he can use to get small cross-sections. There's not a lot of vertical space in the EKO secondary combustion chamber.
(broken link removed to http://www.byggahus.se/attachments/forum/biobraensle/22604d1225711845-moddad-orlan-40-primaerluften.jpg)
primary air intake.
The Swedish importer says that on the new orlan boilers the primary air intake will be done something like this.
They will move the intake down in the fireroom.
Maybe his was reading the tread an call the orlanski factory
primary air intake.
The Swedish importer says that on the new orlan boilers the primary air intake will be done something like this.
They will move the intake down in the fireroom.
Maybe his was reading the tread an call the orlanski factory
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