RAGING TO SECONDARIES 10 minute time lapse (edited from 15 to 10 minutes)

[Blackjack Dan]

I got up and it was 11 below and needed to warm up the house I loaded 4 splits in my stove and opened the air up all the way and let it go. After breakfast, about 90 minutes later the house was toasty warm and went in to shutdown the stove and thought I would take a time lapse. I was actually kind of surprised this nine-year-old stove, how well it controlled the fire.

Stove: Dutch West 2478, Time: 10 minutes took picture everything 2 minutes. Full open to full closed.
yes I edited this I found out the timer I was using was a two minute not a three minute.

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Let's see your stove & pics, and how do they do.

 

[begreen]

Well, the chimney is probably cleaner. How do you mean shutting down? Bypass close, air control close, or both? Waiting 90 minutes to start closing off the air is waiting much too long. This will waste fuel and put out a lot of emissions.

 

[Blackjack Dan]

Main part of the house had gotten down to about 65° I wanted to get a hot fire. The bypass was close for the 90 minutes I then close the air control from full open to full closed, and did the time lapse.

 

[Osagebndr]

I generally have mine shutdown from a cold start In 30-45min. I mean cold flue and stove top at 100*.90 min I'd have a fireball that would scare the h&@l out of me

 

[Blackjack Dan]

Thanks Begreen, Point noted on emissions. I thought a hot fire with no smoke was clean? I have been guilty of letting it burn the whole cycle wide open (bypass closed air control full open) with three or four splits in it. I do need to get a Temp gauge, I didn't have a clue what my stove or flu were, just trying to get the house warmed up and was curious to see how long it would take to shut it down. Guess I didn't describe this very well I never do a burn or a cycle with the bypass open, use it just for cold start ups and loading.

 

[realstihl]

Thanks Begreen, Point noted on emissions. I thought a hot fire with no smoke was clean? I have been guilty of letting it burn the whole cycle wide open (bypass closed air control full open) with three or four splits in it. I do need to get a Temp gauge, I didn't have a clue what my stove or flu were, just trying to get the house warmed up and was curious to see how long it would take to shut it down. Guess I didn't describe this very well I never do a burn or a cycle with the bypass open, use it just for cold start ups and loading.

I would think the stove or pipe would be glowing at that length of time. I wouldn't even think about with my stove.

 

[rideau]

You should get stove thermometers...stovetop and flue. I would expect the stove and flue to be too hot with the air open all the way for any length of time. If you consistently burn with your stove too hot, you will damage it, reduce the life of the cast iron. It would be better and safer to have knowledge about the state of your fires.

If this is a cat stove, closing the bypass and putting flames through the cat for 90 minutes doesn't do it any good either.

To say nothing of the fact that you are losing a lot of heat up the chimney. With the air even at half, you would likely still have a raging fire, a hot stove, and lots of heat coming into the room. And 65 isn't all that cool....you only needed to raise the temp 5 degrees or so to go from cool to comfortable, even if you wanted it considerably higher for luxurious warmth.

From fully engulfed in flames to shut down for secondary burn takes less than a minute on my stove. Closing the air slows the stove down pretty much immediately. Now, if I let the flue temps get over 900 and the stovetop get over 650, then maybe it would take two to three minutes...and those would be stressful minutes for me. 15 minutes to get the flames calmed would not make me happy.

 

[weatherguy]

Thanks Begreen, Point noted on emissions. I thought a hot fire with no smoke was clean? I have been guilty of letting it burn the whole cycle wide open (bypass closed air control full open) with three or four splits in it. I do need to get a Temp gauge, I didn't have a clue what my stove or flu were, just trying to get the house warmed up and was curious to see how long it would take to shut it down. Guess I didn't describe this very well I never do a burn or a cycle with the bypass open, use it just for cold start ups and loading.

You could have shut it down and still had the raging secondaries and the wood would last longer.

 

[CRE10]

Get some thermometers to monitor it and be safe.

 

[Blackjack Dan]

You should get stove thermometers...stovetop and flue. I would expect the stove and flue to be too hot with the air open all the way for any length of time. If you consistently burn with your stove too hot, you will damage it, reduce the life of the cast iron. It would be better and safer to have knowledge about the state of your fires.

If this is a cat stove, closing the bypass and putting flames through the cat for 90 minutes doesn't do it any good either.

To say nothing of the fact that you are losing a lot of heat up the chimney. With the air even at half, you would likely still have a raging fire, a hot stove, and lots of heat coming into the room. And 65 isn't all that cool....you only needed to raise the temp 5 degrees or so to go from cool to comfortable, even if you wanted it considerably higher for luxurious warmth.

From fully engulfed in flames to shut down for secondary burn takes less than a minute on my stove. Closing the air slows the stove down pretty much immediately. Now, if I let the flue temps get over 900 and the stovetop get over 650, then maybe it would take two to three minutes...and those would be stressful minutes for me. 15 minutes to get the flames calmed would not make me happy.

Rideau the 2478 is a non-cat stove. We have a central unit keep it on 50° the hearth room was at 65° the extreme bedrooms around 55° with the doors closed definitely chilly.

Definitely not recommending that but we have all let a fire go to long before shutting it down at the appropriate time.
And this fire was definitely more than fully engulfed I still think that's pretty good control.

What kind of stove you got? If you have a chance do a time lapse show us.

 

[rideau]

Progress Hybrid.

Next time I have a high burn I will try to remember to do so. It is supposed to get chilly (-12) pretty soon, so likely will happen. In this weather, I'm burning with a low cat fire, stovetop around 400, no real flame, 18 hour burn last night on four splits, 2 hickory and 2 sugar maple. Enough coals left to start the next fire, house cooled to about 65 during the final stages of burning the coals down. Loaded the stove about 4 PM with four smaller splits, closed everything down for the long burn about 4:15 and took the dog for a walk. House very comfortable when we got back...

 

[begreen]

Thanks Begreen, Point noted on emissions. I thought a hot fire with no smoke was clean? I have been guilty of letting it burn the whole cycle wide open (bypass closed air control full open) with three or four splits in it. I do need to get a Temp gauge, I didn't have a clue what my stove or flu were, just trying to get the house warmed up and was curious to see how long it would take to shut it down. Guess I didn't describe this very well I never do a burn or a cycle with the bypass open, use it just for cold start ups and loading.

A stove thermometer is important. These stoves are tough, but not invincible.

 

[billb3]

Nice stove
90 minutes full blast seems a bit harsh
I hope you don't start warping metal doing that.

 

[BrotherBart]

No reason in the world to not kick in the Everburn long before 90 minutes and get the max heat from that wood.

 

[Blackjack Dan]

No reason in the world to not kick in the Everburn long before 90 minutes and get the max heat from that wood.

Is the everburn the same as the bypass? I had closed the bypass when I got the stove up to temps I just had not restricted in the airflow for the 90 minutes.

 

[BrotherBart]

The Everburn system is the thing low in the back of the firebox that sucks in the fire and does the re-burn in the stove. After you close the bypass.

Turning down the primary air kicks the Everburn into high gear.

 

[Sleeper-6]

I think the key here may be the 3-4 splits part. I know on my insert with a small load (two or three 4" splits) I can and almost have to leave the air way open sometimes just to get a hot clean burn. I do this on the days when I'm around to reload in a few hours and don't need a full box worth of heat. There is no way I could do that with a full load, the poor thing would go ballistic.

 

[RopeS]

I think the key here may be the 3-4 splits part. I know on my insert with a small load (two or three 4" splits) I can and almost have to leave the air way open sometimes just to get a hot clean burn. I do this on the days when I'm around to reload in a few hours and don't need a full box worth of heat. There is no way I could do that with a full load, the poor thing would go ballistic.

I think Sleeper hit the nail on the head. I will also do this with just 3-4 splits. It never reaches over 550-600 stovetop temps with only that amount of wood.

 

[Blackjack Dan]

Wow..... I'm kind of impressed. I think that's a great observation, I think my firebox handles up to 21" or 22" wood.
The wood I'm burning is 16-18" four small to med splits would be about 50% I think you guys nailed it!

Of course all I wanted to do was get some comparisons on a time lapse on shutting down A raging fire to secondaries and see what other stoves looked like.

I did find out I had a major miscalculation, the sand timer I was using is a two minute timer not a three minute timer, meaning this was a 10 minute time lapse instead of the 15 minute! Sorry for the bad info. Is there a way of changing editing the title of this thread?