RE: Does size matter? What's 2 inches? ;)

[firefighterjake]

I'm close to pulling the proverbial trigger on buying a new saw.

I am at a crossroads of a question though.

One dealer says the saw I am looking at comes with a 20 inch bar (which I think might be good), but he can easily convert the saw over to a 18 inch bar and sprocket (and I would save $10 or so) so I could run my existing chains for the saw I presently own.

I must have a half dozen or so 18 chains . . .

So my question . . . does size matter . . . or would it be better to go with the 18 inch bar so I can keep using the chains I have? If I do opt to go with the 20 inch bar I would buy a spare chain . . . and the 18 inch chains would most likely be donated to the ATV Club which has the same make/model as my present saw.

 

[DoubleB]

This doesn't answer your question, but instead of keeping the 20" bar/chain and buying spare 20" chains, why don't you keep the 20" bar/chain and buy an 18" bar?

For me, I seemed to notice an easier time getting through big stuff when I went from 16" to 18", I assume 20" would be another noticeable help.

 

[Jon1270]

Well, going with the 20" setup would cost you $10 plus the value of the used chains you already have, you'd have to carry around a little extra weight and the saw's performance would be slightly worse. On the other hand you'd find it a little easier to buck trees that are just a bit out of reach for your current bar, and you'd have a bit more reach for small stuff at a distance. Which factors do you care more about?

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Can you get a 20" bar and chain setup with the same sprocket set up as your 18"?

 

[Jon1270]

Can you get a 20" bar and chain setup with the same sprocket set up as your 18"?

Good thought. Also the choice will hinge, to some degree, on the powerhead you're choosing. If you're going for another 50cc saw to replace the 350, then I'd say you should stick with the 18" bar because 20" is at the outer limits of what a non-ported 50cc saw can handle. If it's a Husky 545 or 550, then you could just keep using the same bar and chains from the 350... unless you plan to sell the 350, in which case you'll probably want to send the bar down the road with it.

 

[woodhog73]

Measure the actual cutting length. Just because it's an 18 inch bar doesn't mean you get 18 inches of cutting length. Sounds crazy but it's true. Saw design where the mounts are, how big the felling spike, etc all effect usable length .

So your new saw if it's different might actually have more usable length in 18 inch than your old saw does in 18 inch. Or it could be the opposite. This could factor into your decision as well.

For what it's worth, I probably cut most of all my firewood with a 18 inch bar. More often than not it's all I need for firewood especially if I'm using it in the woods and in thick over growth areas.

 

[woodhog73]

Can you get a 20" bar and chain setup with the same sprocket set up as your 18"?

The fact your changing sprockets indicates a different pitch to me. If the pitch is the same on the 20 and 18 then I'm guessing the dealer is suggesting changing the sprocket to better suit the saws power and match up better with the 18 inch chain ? Only reason I can think of

I've got several different length bars for my big saws. But they are all same pitch so I never change the sprocket. I use the same sprocket with an 18 inch bar as I do a 24 inch. Because the chain pitch is the same.

My guess is the dealers suggesting a .325 pitch if you go with the 18 inch and that the stock 20 inch bar set up is larger 3/8 pitch

What size saw are we talking about ? The difference between 18 and 20 is so small that in my opinion If it's 55cc or smaller saw id rather have an 18 inch set up. Just my opinion.

 

[firefighterjake]

Can you get a 20" bar and chain setup with the same sprocket set up as your 18"?

Yes . . . at no charge at the one Jonsered dealer. Ah . . . I think I see where you are going here. If it has the same sprocket set up then I could get the 20 inch bar and chain . . . and then switch out to my old bar and chains if the sprocket set up was the same. Hmmmm . . . that might be a good idea.

 

[firefighterjake]

Good thought. Also the choice will hinge, to some degree, on the powerhead you're choosing. If you're going for another 50cc saw to replace the 350, then I'd say you should stick with the 18" bar because 20" is at the outer limits of what a non-ported 50cc saw can handle. If it's a Husky 545 or 550, then you could just keep using the same bar and chains from the 350... unless you plan to sell the 350, in which case you'll probably want to send the bar down the road with it.

Looking at a Husky 555 or Jonsered 2258 --- I think they're just a dite smaller than 60cc. I figured it was time to get a little more power than the Husky 350.

My plan now is to trade in the 350 as it is in pretty rough shape -- time (and me) have not been easy on it. However, I suspect I could keep the bar and chains.

 

[firefighterjake]

The fact your changing sprockets indicates a different pitch to me. If the pitch is the same on the 20 and 18 then I'm guessing the dealer is suggesting changing the sprocket to better suit the saws power and match up better with the 18 inch chain ? Only reason I can think of

I've got several different length bars for my big saws. But they are all same pitch so I never change the sprocket. I use the same sprocket with an 18 inch bar as I do a 24 inch. Because the chain pitch is the same.

My guess is the dealers suggesting a .325 pitch if you go with the 18 inch and that the stock 20 inch bar set up is larger 3/8 pitch

What size saw are we talking about ? The difference between 18 and 20 is so small that in my opinion If it's 55cc or smaller saw id rather have an 18 inch set up. Just my opinion.

Actually it was someone's post here that prompted me to ask about changing out the sprocket rather than it being the dealer's idea. My current saw -- Husky 350 -- uses one type of chain . . . and the two new saws I am looking at -- Husky 555 and Jonsered 2258 -- use the other type of chain (I forget -- is it 3/8 and .325?)

My thinking is it would be nice to be able to use all of the existing chains I have . . . I believe the new saw could easily handle a 20 inch bar and honestly think it might be nice. Originally I thought going with the new saw would mean all of my chains would no longer be of any use to me . . . until someone posted that the dealer might be able to change out the sprocket. Thanks to this thread, I now realize (stupidly on my part) that if I can have the dealer set the saw up so it can take either chain (or chain set up like my old saw) I can simply keep my old bar and 18 inch chains, get the 20 inch bar and then swap out bars and chains when needed.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks everyone for your input . . . this thread has truly helped me in my decision making process.

 

[Jon1270]

A 555 will have no trouble with a 20" bar, if that's what would serve you best.

 

[woodhog73]

Actually it was someone's post here that prompted me to ask about changing out the sprocket rather than it being the dealer's idea. My current saw -- Husky 350 -- uses one type of chain . . . and the two new saws I am looking at -- Husky 555 and Jonsered 2258 -- use the other type of chain (I forget -- is it 3/8 and .325?)

My thinking is it would be nice to be able to use all of the existing chains I have . . . I believe the new saw could easily handle a 20 inch bar and honestly think it might be nice. Originally I thought going with the new saw would mean all of my chains would no longer be of any use to me . . . until someone posted that the dealer might be able to change out the sprocket. Thanks to this thread, I now realize (stupidly on my part) that if I can have the dealer set the saw up so it can take either chain (or chain set up like my old saw) I can simply keep my old bar and 18 inch chains, get the 20 inch bar and then swap out bars and chains when needed.

Your old saw probably was fitted with .325

A new 2258 or 555 comes stock with larger 3/8.

.325 and 3/8 must all use matching sprocket, roller tip sprocket ( your bar tip) and chain. They are not interchangeable piece meal.

So I'm not sure when you say swapping bar and chain out so you can use both your existing 18 inch bar and chains you have already ( in .325 I assume) and the new 20 inch bar and chains that come with the new saw ( in 3/8) , if you realize that you also need to swap the sprocket if going from .325 to 3/8. I think that's what you guys are all saying but wasn't completely sure.

So you would be running .325 on your new saw when using an 18 inch set up ? And running 3/8 when using the 20 inch set up ? That makes sense and requires a sprocket change every time you swap. .325 must use a dedicated sprocket and 3/8 also must use a dedicated sprocket.

The other option is if you want to run .325 chain all the time ( so you can use your current supply of 18 inch bar and chains) you could swap the stock 3/8 set up for a .325 pitch set up in 20 inches. Committing to .325 in both 18 inch and 20 inch lengths. In that case there's no need to change the sprocket everytime you change bar length.

That saves you the bother of changing out the sprocket everytime you want to go from 18 to 20. There's no need to run a different sprocket on a saw with that much power over a 2 inch difference in chain length. ( in my opinion). The only reason to change the sprocket over 2 inches in chain length is if your going back and forth between .325 pitch and 3/8 pitch chain.

Another thing to keep in mind those saws use an outboard clutch. You will need to remove the clutch to change the sprocket. Not hard to do but one more step.

Also I second what Jon said in that the saw will pull a 20 inch no problem. Those are darn nice saws.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

In response #4 I asked

Can you get a 20" bar and chain setup with the same sprocket set up as your 18"?

I thought I was trying to say the same as you just said.

 

[firefighterjake]

Your old saw probably was fitted with .325

A new 2258 or 555 comes stock with larger 3/8.

.325 and 3/8 must all use matching sprocket, roller tip sprocket ( your bar tip) and chain. They are not interchangeable piece meal.

So I'm not sure when you say swapping bar and chain out so you can use both your existing 18 inch bar and chains you have already ( in .325 I assume) and the new 20 inch bar and chains that come with the new saw ( in 3/8) , if you realize that you also need to swap the sprocket if going from .325 to 3/8. I think that's what you guys are all saying but wasn't completely sure.

So you would be running .325 on your new saw when using an 18 inch set up ? And running 3/8 when using the 20 inch set up ? That makes sense and requires a sprocket change every time you swap. .325 must use a dedicated sprocket and 3/8 also must use a dedicated sprocket.

The other option is if you want to run .325 chain all the time ( so you can use your current supply of 18 inch bar and chains) you could swap the stock 3/8 set up for a .325 pitch set up in 20 inches. Committing to .325 in both 18 inch and 20 inch lengths. In that case there's no need to change the sprocket everytime you change bar length.

That saves you the bother of changing out the sprocket everytime you want to go from 18 to 20. There's no need to run a different sprocket on a saw with that much power over a 2 inch difference in chain length. ( in my opinion). The only reason to change the sprocket over 2 inches in chain length is if your going back and forth between .325 pitch and 3/8 pitch chain.

Another thing to keep in mind those saws use an outboard clutch. You will need to remove the clutch to change the sprocket. Not hard to do but one more step.

Also I second what Jon said in that the saw will pull a 20 inch no problem. Those are darn nice saws.

I value your opinion Woodhog . . . and in fact it was your opinion in a previous thread that caused me to take a long, hard look at Jonsered and investigate the idea of a sprocket swap.

What I am currently thinking is what you last mentioned . . . setting up the new saw with the .325 set up so I could run either an old 18 inch bar and my old chains . . . or a new 20 inch bar configured to .325. Truthfully I suspect I would leave either the 18 or 20 inch bar on it most of the time and not swap back and forth that often . . . but it would be nice to have that option due to all of the extra 18 inch chains I have.

Is there any pros or cons to the 3/8 set up vs. .325?

 

[firefighterjake]

In response #4 I asked


I thought I was trying to say the same as you just said.

HehHeh . . . you did say that . . . Woodhog was elaborating a bit more and making sure he/I understood the mechanics of it. It's all good.

 

[woodhog73]

What I am currently thinking is what you last mentioned . . . setting up the new saw with the .325 set up so I could run either an old 18 inch bar and my old chains . . . or a new 20 inch bar configured to .325. Truthfully I suspect I would leave either the 18 or 20 inch bar on it most of the time and not swap back and forth that often . . . but it would be nice to have that option due to all of the extra 18 inch chains I have.

Is there any pros or cons to the 3/8 set up vs. .325?

In my experience this is what I've found.

I can hand file sharpen .325 much quicker and easier than 3/8. I also find .325 to cut just as nice and fast as 3/8 chain

On my bigger saws though I've just always run 3/8. It's bigger and heavier and will last longer under high power.

On a 555 / 2258 I can see only positive in using .325

It's already a high output saw and can pull 3/8 on a 20 inch bar easily. So going to .325 is like an extra kick because it's lighter chain

a 555 /2258 with a .325 on 18 inch bar will be one fast and nimble cutting saw!

I see no reason not to run .325 in both 18 inch and 20 inch. Why not ?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Do you feel like you're lacking ability with an18" bar? Most of my cutting is done with a 16" bar. I have a 20" bar, it its barely used. I'm not sure an 18" bar would put me in a better position for anything but felling.

 

[beatlefan]

Is there a difference in comfort between the two saws? My cheap little saws vibrate the heck out of my hands. I thought all saws were this way until I sprang for a new Husky 455 Rancher a few years back. I love it. I wonder how a new Jonsered would be?

 

[firefighterjake]

Do you feel like you're lacking ability with an18" bar? Most of my cutting is done with a 16" bar. I have a 20" bar, it its barely used. I'm not sure an 18" bar would put me in a better position for anything but felling.

Truthfully there are times when I find myself scootching down just a tad while bucking up wood and I'm thinking the extra 2 inches might make a bit of a difference . . . then again . . . as I posted in the very first post . . . does 2 inches really matter?

 

[firefighterjake]

Is there a difference in comfort between the two saws? My cheap little saws vibrate the heck out of my hands. I thought all saws were this way until I sprang for a new Husky 455 Rancher a few years back. I love it. I wonder how a new Jonsered would be?

They seemed pretty comparable with the biggest difference of note being the way the handle is arranged . . . one handle is slightly angled, the other straight. Both are a step up from homeowner saws . . . and a step down from the professional saws.

 

[woodhog73]

Both are a step up from homeowner saws . . . and a step down from the professional saws.

They are full on professional saws. The marketing piece puts them as robust saws I think on the Husky website and not sure on Jred site.

But they are exact same saws as their 562/2260 counterparts less roughly .5hp and more importantly to me less $100 taken from my wallet.

What makes them professional saws is their magnesium crankcase construction, durable crankshaft and main bearing assembly that is same as on the 562/2260, so they can stand up to many hours of heavy use, they have high output oilers that throw a lot of oil same as on the 562/2260, same antivibe system, etc

Sometimes I think these companies have too many offerings that just leads to confusion especially if the dealer sales person doesn't know what their selling. I'm not sure why Husky/Jred offer these models at reduced power and reduced cost other than to expand the product line I guess. But to most people I would think the better deal is saving the $100 bucks sacrificing .5 hp and still getting the identical saw as the one marketed as " professional" other than a little less power your still getting all the same stuff, same design, same durability, etc

Because of the .5 hp reduction they look less appealing if your a person who pays attention to stats because the power to weight ratio is not on par with the higher output models but at the end of the day they make plenty of power and have a durable well constructed design at a price well below other 60cc saws.

Let us know which saw you decide on !

 

[Dairyman]

Is there any pros or cons to the 3/8 set up vs. .325?

3/8 will cut faster, stay sharp longer, and be quicker to sharpen. .325 will be smoother for limbing. If you go .325 you might try an 8 pin sprocket.

 

[Knots]

In southern Maine, where the whole place burned in '47, there aren't many big trees. I have a Stihl 290 and 280 with 16" bars. I have a 20" bar and chain that will bolt on. Since I rarely use the 20", I don't mind the drop-off in performance when I put it on.

 

[firefighterjake]

OK, now I'm waffling . . . Dairyman got me thinking.

Looking for opinions for folks who have gone from a saw with a .325 chain to 3/8th . . . does it make that much of a difference in terms of power and staying sharper longer (or is the effect more for going up in power?) The Husky dealer said most folks tend to prefer 3/8th and "once you try it you will not want to go back."