Realistic insert burn times

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creek chub

Member
Sep 28, 2015
106
Va
Putting aside manufacturers’ burn time claims, what is a realistic expectation for the newer wood burning fireplace inserts? I know their are numerous variables that’ll effect burn times. Just curious in getting an average burn time with good heat output for the newer models.

Thanks
 
Putting aside manufacturers’ burn time claims, what is a realistic expectation for the newer wood burning fireplace inserts? I know their are numerous variables that’ll effect burn times. Just curious in getting an average burn time with good heat output for the newer models.

Thanks
There is no average burn time across inserts. Some can go over 20 hours others only 4 or 5. If you have questions about specific inserts you may get a better answer
 
Hampton HI200, 4 to 5 hours of usable heat.
 
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I don't have an insert. But the insert version of the freestanding stove I am using a blaze king princess can get up to 24 hrs. My previous stove a regency 3100 could get up to 10hrs.
 
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I don't have an insert. But the insert version of the freestanding stove I am using a blaze king princess can get up to 24 hrs. My previous stove a regency 3100 could get up to 10hrs.
I’d like a freestanding stove but currently have a masonry chimney. Guess a rear vented stove could be an option if my hearth accommodated it
 
I’d like a freestanding stove but currently have a masonry chimney. Guess a rear vented stove could be an option if my hearth accommodated it
Burn times are generally about the same for an insert as the freestanding counterpart
 
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I can get 7 hours and it has just enough coals to start back the next morning. I rarely sleep more than 5 hours anyway. Century Insert.
 
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Note that longer burn times are simply based on how much fuel fits in the firebox (so its size) and how fast you burn (so lower heat output will make the burn last longer). It therefore can make more sense to look at heat output ranges of stoves and inserts and what you would need. This is not easy, and numbers are hard to compare, but it does give ballpark comparisons.

Bottom line, a 24 hrs burn time is nice, but it won't necessarily do during that time what you need it to do. I.e. in mid winter, you'll not likely run at 24 hrs reload schedules because you need more heat.
 
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This is the chart that SBI puts in the manuals of all their product lines. Just a general rule of thumb, but is very close for what I see with my 2.4cuft stove.

[Hearth.com] Realistic insert burn times
 
5-6 hours using splits with enough coals to restart but the blowing air is cool at that point.
I recently started using huge 1/4 rounds. Only one piece will fit on a bed of coals and that will burn well for 8 but I gotta be honest. I didn’t think the first one I put in was going fit. I only have 3 left so in the future I’ll save some for just this purpose.
 
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I get 8 to 9 hours regularly on 2 cuft inserts PE and Napoleon 1401 using mostly split oak
 
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This is the chart that SBI puts in the manuals of all their product lines. Just a general rule of thumb, but is very close for what I see with my 2.4cuft stove.

View attachment 287593

Uh, wow, I am not getting anywhere NEAR 5-6 hours from my Osburn 1800 (1.8 cf). I am getting maybe 1 hour of flames, maybe 30 minutes of really hot coals, then another hour of coals. I feel like I am reloading it constantly. Going to start a thread about this.
 
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Uh, wow, I am not getting anywhere NEAR 5-6 hours from my Osburn 1800 (1.8 cf). I am getting maybe 1 hour of flames, maybe 30 minutes of really hot coals, then another hour of coals. I feel like I am reloading it constantly. Going to start a thread about this.
Something is very wrong with your setup in that case.
 
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Uh, wow, I am not getting anywhere NEAR 5-6 hours from my Osburn 1800 (1.8 cf). I am getting maybe 1 hour of flames, maybe 30 minutes of really hot coals, then another hour of coals. I feel like I am reloading it constantly. Going to start a thread about this.
That’s kind of my reasoning for starting the discussion. Most of us are not experts in wood burning appliances and have to rely on manufacturers’ claims. While I don’t think there’s intentional advertisement deception, the stated burn times for some items may not be close to manufacturer claims.
 
That’s kind of my reasoning for starting the discussion. Most of us are not experts in wood burning appliances and have to rely on manufacturers’ claims. While I don’t think there’s intentional advertisement deception, the stated burn times for some items may not be close to manufacturer claims.
If installed and operated properly the manufacturers claims should be able to be matched.
 
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I have always been told that stove manufacturers design and engineer their stoves to operate on a 15 ft chimney. That being the case any additional stove pipe and chimney lengths should in theory affect and shorten the burn cycle and total burn time as well as possibly making the stove burn hotter than desired because of higher draft caused by the extra length. The type of wood, quality of wood and quantity of wood you place in your fire box will also greatly affect the burn time. If your stove is designed for a 40 lbs. wood load and you place only 15 lbs. in it your burn time will be much shorter. If you burn hickory, Locust or Oak your burn time will be substantially longer than if you are burning Cherry or Birch as an example. Burning unseasoned wood will also affect your burn time, firewood that is too dry will shorten your burn times. 15% - 20% humidity content in your fire wood is optimal. Overall using the same criteria as your stove manufacturer did you should achieve roughly close to what is published, however not always practical to do so. Just a stronger than normal wind pulling air at the top of the chimney will affect the stove operation and bun time.
 
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I have always been told that stove manufacturers design and engineer their stoves to operate on a 15 ft chimney. That being the case any additional stove pipe and chimney lengths should in theory affect and shorten the burn cycle and total burn time as well as possibly making the stove burn hotter than desired because of higher draft caused by the extra length. The type of wood, quality of wood and quantity of wood you place in your fire box will also greatly affect the burn time. If your stove is designed for a 40 lbs. wood load and you place only 15 lbs. in it your burn time will be much shorter. If you burn hickory, Locust or Oak your burn time will be substantially longer than if you are burning Cherry or Birch as an example. Burning unseasoned wood will also affect your burn time, firewood that is too dry will shorten your burn times. 15% - 20% humidity content in your fire wood is optimal. Overall using the same criteria as your stove manufacturer you should achieve roughly close to what is published.
Do manufacturers recommend any suggestions if a chimney is 20 or 30’ tall? Just curious how homeowners would know what their options are if they have taller chimneys
 
Do manufacturers recommend any suggestions if a chimney is 20 or 30’ tall? Just curious how homeowners would know what their options are if they have taller chimneys
A good installer will have several techniques to deal with excessive draft.
 
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I have always been told that stove manufacturers design and engineer their stoves to operate on a 15 ft chimney. That being the case any additional stove pipe and chimney lengths should in theory affect and shorten the burn cycle and total burn time as well as possibly making the stove burn hotter than desired because of higher draft caused by the extra length. The type of wood, quality of wood and quantity of wood you place in your fire box will also greatly affect the burn time. If your stove is designed for a 40 lbs. wood load and you place only 15 lbs. in it your burn time will be much shorter. If you burn hickory, Locust or Oak your burn time will be substantially longer than if you are burning Cherry or Birch as an example. Burning unseasoned wood will also affect your burn time, firewood that is too dry will shorten your burn times. 15% - 20% humidity content in your fire wood is optimal. Overall using the same criteria as your stove manufacturer did you should achieve roughly close to what is published, however not always practical to do so. Just a stronger than normal wind pulling air at the top of the chimney will affect the stove operation and bun time.

Not all stoves suffer from a "the wood is too dry" issue. Mine does not. In fact, I put about a cubic foot of twox four cut offs (I measured, and my best guess is 8 percent mc) in the stove, and burned it. It went well.
It depends on the air control of the stove.

The artificially longer burn times of wetter wood is simply because the stove gets less hot because the heat is used to boil off water. Less heat means less wood gasifying, and this a slower burn.

Your chimney length points are well-taken (though there are modern stoves that run onn12' stacks).
 
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I get about 5-6 good hours. After that the heat output really starts to drop. That’s with a Regency i2400 insert.
 
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The PE (1.8 / 2.0? ) box ... 5-7 hour, depending on the load it got. Throws heat for another 2 hours, then it drops down quick. I can reload from coals when I get home at then end of the day, when it's had a full load.
 
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The stove shop that installed my PE Spectrum Classic at my request drilled a hole for his probe in my double wall stove pipe and measured the draft, my Selkirk insulated chimney is 24 ft tall and installed on the exterior of the house, he claimed that my draft was nearly twice the normal or minimum required level (sorry do not remember the exact figures and lost his written notes ) so yes my burn times are shorter than published by Pacific Energy but still respectable. I installed a Condar probe thermometer in the probe hole after, best double wall thermometer I have owned for double wall stove pipe. My burn times are even shorten a bit more in January and February when temps get down to between -20° and -30° as draft increases from the cold dry air and stronger winds. Most stores and certified sweeps I have spoken with on this subject have the same solution which is a stove pipe damper to reduce the draft and extend the burn time, however in my area it is frowned upon by most insurers and fire departments so very rarely done. I am told that if I had a PE Summit , Neo, now the newer Super 27 or Super Classic LE that the EBT /EBT2 would help with this problem.
 
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My 8-9 hour burn times are usually a stuffed full load of oak both stuff stoves full after 8-9 hours is plenty off coals to restart usually more in the Napoleon than the PE. The napoleon has an 18' chimney without a damper PE is 27' with a damper usually 3/4 to full close.
The Lopi I had was usually a max burn of 7 hours with damper and 6-7 without.
 
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Our 1.8 box can go 8-11 hours between reloads with oak and the air shut down for a slow burn. Of course not a whole lot of heat happening at the end. I'm happy that I can even get over night burns with this small stove.
 
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The stove shop that installed my PE Spectrum Classic at my request drilled a hole for his probe in my double wall stove pipe and measured the draft, my Selkirk insulated chimney is 24 ft tall and installed on the exterior of the house, he claimed that my draft was nearly twice the normal or minimum required level (sorry do not remember the exact figures and lost his written notes ) so yes my burn times are shorter than published by Pacific Energy but still respectable. I installed a Condar probe thermometer in the probe hole after, best double wall thermometer I have owned for double wall stove pipe. My burn times are even shorten a bit more in January and February when temps get down to between -20° and -30° as draft increases from the cold dry air and stronger winds. Most stores and certified sweeps I have spoken with on this subject have the same solution which is a stove pipe damper to reduce the draft and extend the burn time, however in my area it is frowned upon by most insurers and fire departments so very rarely done. I am told that if I had a PE Summit , Neo, now the newer Super 27 or Super Classic LE that the EBT /EBT2 would help with this problem.
What does ebt mean?