Rebuilding an Encore 2550

[Megunticook]

It's time (actually it's past time)--rebuilding the Encore 2550 after 23 years of rock solid performance as primary heat for our home. Plan was to do it this summer but unfortunately other more immediate demands took precedence, so now my back's against the wall with winter just around the corner. We've got a heat pump for backup so I think we'll be OK if I can get this done before Thanksgiving.

Issue is an air leak on one side where the top meets the side plate. Not terrible (I tried sealing it with stove cement from the outside) but it's vulnerable to overfiring if you're not careful. Haven't had any serious incidences of overfiring yet but don't like not having the ability to shut it down hard if needed.

This will be the first full rebuild for me so thought I'd share images and process, ask questions from folks who've already done this to their Encore.

Any tips, warnings, or recommendations before I tear into it any further? I have an old VC guide for rebuilding the Defiant which is somewhat helpful but does anyone have a similar guide for the Encore?

I've removed a lot already, I think the next step is probably the fireback and refractory assembly. Here goes nothing!

 

[ajayabb]

Good luck. I have a 2550 as well. Has been a great stove. There’s a few people on this forum that have rebuilt their VCs and I’m sure will chime in with some words of encouragement. Keep us posted through your work. Those rusted nuts won’t be fun

 

[Megunticook]

Got the inner sides out, bolts were very cooperative (I'd had them out maybe ten years ago to replace gaskets so I may have antiseized them a bit, can't really remember. Definitely will this time.)

Removed flue collar, screws were a bit seized to the square nuts they're threaded into but managed to get them loose without much trouble. Always my biggest fear with a job like this--the old seized/stripped bolt extraction!

Will do the fireback tomorrow--but loosened both bolts on the back of the stove so relieved to know that won't be an issue. Had the upper fireback out once to replace the refracktory, don't remember it being terribly hard removing but maybe I was just lucky because I've heard this maneuver can be tricky and frustrating. Maybe I just blacked out the awful memory.

 

[begreen]

Take pics at each stage if possible.

 

[Megunticook]

Take pics at each stage if possible.

Yes, sorry, I will try to document this more thoroughly.

I removed the upper fireback this morning, just took 5 minutes of fiddling to get the right-hand side to clear the rib on the side plate with the damper rod still in the hole in the left side. I was expecting a lot worse. Here's a manual on the procedure in case anyone else is tackling this.

So far everything looks in good shape--no cracks, warpage, or other signs of damage. The throat hood is a bit warped, probably should replace it, but other than that things seem solid.

Removed refractory and heat shields, I think we're ready to disassemble the plates (gulp). Any tips/warnings? I know not to whack the cast iron with a hammer, I guess use a block of wood between hammer and stove? Or gentle taps with a rubber mallet? Help me out anyone who's done this before.

Here's how things are looking at the moment:

 

[Megunticook]

I found an old Encore service manual from 1995 I had found online, describes the rebuild procedure in some detail which is really helpful. Here it is in case anyone else could use it. I also have a similar rebuild manual for the Defiant, looks like it was printed in 2008.

Sounds like my next move is to get a strap around the stove, then remove the top and back. No turning back now.

 

[Megunticook]

Well, I've got my first seized fastener--the phillips screw that secures the top plate to the front, right under where the griddle handle attaches:



Applied a little WD40 and letting that soak (would've used Kroil but the stench would've driven my wife out of the house). You think an impact driver would be a good tactic here? Ugh, hate these situations. Hopefully some slow careful methodical persuasion will solve it.

The two nuts securing the top to the sides near the back came out fine with 6-sided box wrench and little WD40, although on one side the stud itself came out. That's fine.

Wondering if I should replace all this hardware with new or just clean and re-use. Does 23 years of heat cycling fatigue the metal? If I replace should I use hardened fasteners? Or maybe stainless? Definitely applying liberal antiseize.

 

[Turbo89]

I would re-use the hardware, it should be good for the heat cycles (stove temperatures are nothing compared to what that hardware can handle). If you need to replace some hardware use black oxide coated stuff, not the chrome colored stuff (heat cycles will make it brittle). I would not recommend stainless, it will gaul up / seize.

Anti-seeze is great stuff, just read the temp rating (I think the gray is good to 1200 deg), they have higher temp versions too. If you over heat it, it will turn to a dusty crud that tends to bind threads.

 

[Megunticook]

Alright, if hardware doesn't appear damaged I'll reuse it. Will have to check the temp. ceiling on my antiseize--it's some industrial strength black stuff from Molykote I got long ago, pretty sure it says "high-temp" on the label but will check.

Got 'er strapped up and ready for top removal. I probably should get some padding/tarps on that bluestone hearth before diassembly, guessing there's going to be some mess:

Cat looking basically new after 2 seasons--just needed a quick brush and gentle blow-out. Not really clogged at all. I switched back to ceramic in '23 after trying steel for a while which needed to be cleaned periodically during heating season from ash. This one's made in North Carolina by Condar:

 

[begreen]

Well, I've got my first seized fastener--the phillips screw that secures the top plate to the front, right under where the griddle handle attaches:

Applied a little WD40 and letting that soak (would've used Kroil but the stench would've driven my wife out of the house). You think an impact driver would be a good tactic here? Ugh, hate these situations. Hopefully some slow careful methodical persuasion will solve it.

Sometime these can be freed by hammering on the end of the Philips driver then tightening it a bit, then loosening, being careful to not strip out the X slot of the screw head.