Reduced clearance question

[olevet]

Thanks Coaly, they are very clean, I really dont think this stove has had much use, the firebrick is pretty much pure white, I want to put a baffle in it ,and printed your baffle post, I have more stove here than I need for 400 sq. feet, I`m thinking of putting it closer to the wall on back to save room and putting 3 layers of 1/2" fire rock sheetrock behind it, It will never have much fuel in it to heat the small area its in, do you think that would be enough protection? I have 3 sections of SS Ins. chimney, to use , think the rule of thumb is 2 feet higher than the nearest object 10 feet away, I built a large forced air stove 35 years ago out of 1/4" plate
with a 12ga. housing on the outside, with 2 limit switches on the housing to control fans.used cast iron grates from Souix city foundry, wish I had not sold it! anyway thanks, and thanks to Pen for the retirement wishes!

 

[coaly]

You started a new thread instead of posting response in original thread, so I changed thread title to correspond with your question;

You need 1 inch airspace behind the cement board (single piece) to be considered a heat shield for clearance reduction. It also needs to be raised off floor for cool air intake at bottom and not have any stand off mounts directly in center of stove. You can then reduce clearance by 66%.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/wood_stove_clearances_installing_it_safely

 

[olevet]

Thank you again Coaly, I hope i did this correct;y this time! The floor clearance will not be a problem as the floor is concrete, I hope the cement board is something I can find at Menards or lowes, I see folks talking about a steel elbow for the exaust on the stove, Is that just a adjustable elbow in like 24 gauge or thicker or a special thicker elbow?Looks like I`m going to need a small piece of firebrick also as theres a piece missing of the right side front by the boor, maybe 3 if the brick is suppose to be as high there is the same height as the rest of the sides. Its preety hard to find woodstove stuff locally, so its a 72 to 140 mile drive to find that sort of stuff. I want to do this rite and have a whole summer to get ready, its to cold to do it now! Week ago last Tues. AM it was -21 below here . Thanks again

 

[coaly]

Yep, there is always a box at the bottom of each page that puts your message in the thread. If you hit "reply" at the bottom of a post, it puts the original text from that post in the box and your typed message will be below it. It's new to all of us one time or other.

I was referring to the wall heat shield being raised off floor so it's like a chimney behind it, and can draw in cool air at the bottom. Usually the cement board is sat on a couple bricks to raise it, and the air flow keeps the wall cold behind it. No airspace allows the cement board to transmit heat very well.
The elbow can be adjustable if necessary, but the formed ones that look like they are wrinkled are stiffer. Just don't get anything galvanized for duct work. They will be painted black for stoves and usually 24 Ga.. 3 screws at each joint of all connector pipe to chimney. Most stove collars aren't drilled for many screws, but should be. Ace Hardware and Lowe's stock them all the time, Home Depot and Tractor Supply are seasonal......
Most mason supply places have firebrick. ($1.50 around here each) Ace Hardware sells it by the box, Tractor supply sells individual, when they have it.

At the top of each page is a "search" box. If you put something like 'Firebricks' in it, you will get all threads containing your search criteria. Same for connector pipe or elbow........heat shield.....

Not all have the second course above the bottom course;

 

[olevet]

Well I have refinished the outside of the Mama Bear VI I was going to post a picture of it but cant figure that part out! next thing is getting it installed before cold hits again.,
still have to get a baffle plate made too, I built a rolling cart to set it on with a couple of locks to keep it from rolling around, sure makes it easy to move by myself!

 

[olevet]

You started a new thread instead of posting response in original thread, so I changed thread title to correspond with your question;

You need 1 inch airspace behind the cement board (single piece) to be considered a heat shield for clearance reduction. It also needs to be raised off floor for cool air intake at bottom and not have any stand off mounts directly in center of stove. You can then reduce clearance by 66%.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/wood_stove_clearances_installing_it_safely

Coaly i cant find ant ceramic standoffs locally, or come up with any ideas that would be suitable, any suggestions?

 

[olevet]

You started a new thread instead of posting response in original thread, so I changed thread title to correspond with your question;

You need 1 inch airspace behind the cement board (single piece) to be considered a heat shield for clearance reduction. It also needs to be raised off floor for cool air intake at bottom and not have any stand off mounts directly in center of stove. You can then reduce clearance by 66%.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/wood_stove_clearances_installing_it_safely

I think the recommended clearance is 18" from single wall black stove pipe. at that rate a 66% reduction would mean 6" to cement board correct?

 

[coaly]

Coaly i cant find ant ceramic standoffs locally, or come up with any ideas that would be suitable, any suggestions?

They make ceramic insulators for that purpose, http://www.amazon.com/Woodeze-Fireproof-Wall-Spacer-Kit/dp/B0088BTZV8

Or if you want cheap, try eBay and search for "knob and tube insulators". They cut easy if you have a diamond blade for a tile saw. (I use one in an angle grinder to cut and trim tile, rebar, welds ......)
Since it will sit on bricks or spacers for air intake at bottom, they don't support any weight.

 

[coaly]

I think the recommended clearance is 18" from single wall black stove pipe. at that rate a 66% reduction would mean 6" to cement board correct?

Stove clearance reduction is 66% with heat shield with 1 inch air space as tested.

Single wall pipe clearance reduction is normally 50% which is 9 inches with proper heat shield.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove#stovepipe

 

[Owen1508]

I think the recommended clearance is 18" from single wall black stove pipe. at that rate a 66% reduction would mean 6" to cement board correct?

On connector pipe the lowest you can reduce to is 6" so yes. The measurement is taken to the first combustible.

 

[Owen1508]

Here's the table

 

[coaly]

Thanks, that table is found in NFPA 211 Chapter 9. It is for the U.S. only.
Notice there is a difference between wall and ceiling clearance.

 

[olevet]

They make ceramic insulators for that purpose, http://www.amazon.com/Woodeze-Fireproof-Wall-Spacer-Kit/dp/B0088BTZV8

Or if you want cheap, try eBay and search for "knob and tube insulators". They cut easy if you have a diamond blade for a tile saw. (I use one in an angle grinder to cut and trim tile, rebar, welds ......)
Since it will sit on bricks or spacers for air intake at bottom, they don't support any weight.

Ok Coaly I found something that will work I think, I picked up a box of 10 electric fence ceramic insulators, for 10 bucks, they are 1 1/4 thick so no cutting! went to start laying out the stovepipe found that my 24 ga elbow is a little short, if all the way in its tipped to the rear, are the one piece elbows longer ?I`m just about there, I put this on the back burner for the summer, found ya have alot of friends that want things when your retired!