Regency CI2700 - Installation Manual & Advice Needed

[Maynard Rowley]

We had a Regency CI2700 installed 4 years ago. We like the insert but I've never been impressed with the install. The unit doesn't sit level and I'm at the limit of the adjusting bolts. The installers also never put any insulation around the liner nor did they put in a baffle, so we have a big gap around the liner that allows cold air into the house.

I want to remove the unit (detach the liner from the insert and slide the insert out a few feet) so that I can figure out why the unit isn't sitting level (and maybe add some self leveller to the firebox) and so I can add a proper steel baffle to seal off the chimney gap. I really don't trust the installer to come back and work on this thing again though.

Has anyone installed/removed one of these units on their own? Is it DIY appropriate for someone who is fairly handy?

Anyone have an installation manual for a CI2700? Regency keeps telling me to contact the installer.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

[stoveliker]

Regarding the baffle: it's often called a "block off plate" here. There are threads with pics on how people did this.
I'd insulate the plate with rockwool (not fiberglass), screw it in place and use a bead of silicone to air seal.

If you're comfortable on the roof you may be able to pull the liner out, insulate it (there are kits), and put it back in the flue yourself as well.

 

[begreen]

The manual is here:

Fireplace Manuals & Installation Guides | Regency Fireplace Products

Find an ownership and installation manual for any of Regency's current fireplace units.

www.regency-fire.com

Block-off plate info here:

Make a damper sealing block off plate

Should fireplace inserts and hearth stoves have a metal sealing plate installed at the Damper area? Here is the simple answer. It is almost impossible to correctly seal most insert panels to the fireplace front. A lot of air can get through them...

www.hearth.com

 

[bholler]

The 2700 is pretty easy to pull. There is a sliding collar the liner is attached to then the stove skid under it. 2 bolts in the back of the stove and unthreading the bypass rod will release it

 

[Maynard Rowley]

Thank you all!

Yes - a block off plate is what my chimney sweep called it as well. I mistakingly called it a baffle.

Not really a fan of heights unfortunately. I'm wondering if I could fill the void between the liner and the chimney with blown-in rockwool; I have several bags left over from insulating our attic. I might not have to pull the liner to do that... Not sure how easy it would blow into that small area though.

 

[stoveliker]

If your chimney doesn't have 2" clearance space from the outside brick to combustibles (for an inside chimney) or 1" (outside), you need insulation for safety (and code).
I'm not sure some blown in rockwool would meet the requirements rather than a proper insulation kit.

 

[bholler]

Thank you all!

Yes - a block off plate is what my chimney sweep called it as well. I mistakingly called it a baffle.

Not really a fan of heights unfortunately. I'm wondering if I could fill the void between the liner and the chimney with blown-in rockwool; I have several bags left over from insulating our attic. I might not have to pull the liner to do that... Not sure how easy it would blow into that small area though.

Blown in rock wool is not an approved insulation material for liners

 

[Maynard Rowley]

The liner might be insulated already. I'm really not sure. I'll need to pull the unit out to check. There definitely is no block off plate though.

 

[begreen]

If the liner is not insulated, measure the clay tile ID. If there is room then wrapping the liner with insulation is a much better plan. It will provide uniform protection, less mess, and much easier to replace the liner if it gets damaged or fails.