Regency F5200: NOTE: Approved with listed double wall pipe only. Do not use single wall pipe.

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farmwithjunk

Member
Sep 19, 2022
140
PA
I'd really like to install the bigger 8" flue Regency but the local dealer quoted the manual that only double wall can be used. I can fit 8" single wall through the block/masonry but I'm not so sure about 8" insulated. I just punched a higher hole to meet the 36" requirement above the stove through a layer of brick and 2 layers of block so I'd really like to make this work. I still have a bit of removal of the old liner and vermiculite but I believe the majority of the liner can be insulated, if not the entire thing.

The Regency F3500 would be an easier install but holds 30# less wood and has shorter burn times. I dont think I can have too much stove being a basement install in 3400 total square feet (split ranch).

Is this for a better draft or some other requirements? My wall is solid block just over 8" tall so its not an issue with combustibles. I could make the hole 10" if needed, I have room to spare on width.

Page 11 of the manual has the requirements. Regency F5200 Manual Link

Its become frustrating try to buy a stove when you are willing to put down $7,000 for stove and liner but apparently people dont want to take my money. The first place we stopped and liked the owner hasn't gotten back to me after several calls. I realize the owner has some health issues but I'd expect an employee could pull price and availability so I can get something ordered.
 
It's not the stove, stovepipe can not be passed through a wall, for any stove.

Only class A chimney pipe, double or triple wall, can pass through a wall, but there is an exception.

The liner's tee snout can go through the brick as long as it is properly isolated from combustibles. The snout is single-wall stainless. It needs 12" of masonry on all sides or it can pass through an insulated wall thimble to reduce clearances. Look at the stove manual's page on "Combustible Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs".

In this situation, there may be a solution. What is the overall plan? Are you putting in a new insulated liner in the chimney? Will there be a stud wall in this location after the new thimble is put in?

Can you post a picture of the location where the new thimble will be?
 
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It's not the stove, stovepipe can not be passed through a wall, for any stove.

Only class A chimney pipe, double or triple wall, can pass through a wall, but there is an exception.

The liner's tee snout can go through the brick as long as it is properly isolated from combustibles. The snout is single-wall stainless. It needs 12" of masonry on all sides or it can pass through an insulated wall thimble to reduce clearances. Look at the stove manual's page on "Combustible Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs".

In this situation, there may be a solution. What is the overall plan? Are you putting in a new insulated liner in the chimney? Will there be a stud wall in this location after the new thimble is put in?

Can you post a picture of the location where the new thimble will be?
My old stove was stainless single wall going through the chimney/block. This is what I was expecting to do with a new stove as well and then insulate from the tee to the cap.

The dealer (via email) indicated that I need 10" to pass through the block. I am 2 feet away from any combustibles so that shouldn't be an issue.

What I'm not certain is a clay liner required through the block like the manual shows. Seems to be varying thoughts on that subject on here. I'm not opposed, I can punch the hole a little bigger and grout it in, I just need to know for certain what I'm installing before I go down that route.
 
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My old stove was stainless single wall going through the chimney/block. This is what I was expecting to do with a new stove as well and then insulate from the tee to the cap.

The dealer (via email) indicated that I need 10" to pass through the block. I am 2 feet away from any combustibles so that shouldn't be an issue.

What I'm not certain is a clay liner required through the block like the manual shows. Seems to be varying thoughts on that subject on here. I'm not opposed, I can punch the hole a little bigger and grout it in, I just need to know for certain what I'm installing before I go down that route.
Honestly your dealer doesn't know what he is talking about in that case. You will want double wall connector pipe and an insulated liner. But single wall stainless will come out the wall. Insulating the snout as much as possible is good but absolutely not required
 
Honestly your dealer doesn't know what he is talking about in that case. You will want double wall connector pipe and an insulated liner. But single wall stainless will come out the wall. Insulating the snout as much as possible is good but absolutely not required
So single wall from tee through the block, then double wall from that connection to top of stove?

Thoughts on adding a clay liner through the block? Prior owner did not, just SS 8" sitting in the block. No damage that I saw and that was with 180,000 BTU smoke dragon.

And the replies on this site are truly appreciated. I didnt even think to research here first but when you dont know where to start you dont know what to search for.
 
So single wall from tee through the block, then double wall from that connection to top of stove?

Thoughts on adding a clay liner through the block? Prior owner did not, just SS 8" sitting in the block. No damage that I saw and that was with 180,000 BTU smoke dragon.

And the replies on this site are truly appreciated. I didnt even think to research here first but when you dont know where to start you dont know what to search for.
There is no real need for a crock but you should pack the block cores with rock wool or ceramic wool.
 
There is no real need for a crock but you should pack the block cores with rock wool or ceramic wool.
Awesome. Sounds like I meet all the specs.

Its not completely clear to me in the manual when they mention only double wall pipe is allowed, perhaps they only mean from the stub off the tee to the stove.
 
Look at page 13 of the F5200 manual, top diagram where there is at least 12" of masonry on all sides. . You can use a clay thimble to pass the snout of the tee through, but it is not necessary. The other diagrams do not apply is if this is an entirely non-combustible wall, unless the plan is to build a stud wall in front of this brick wall.

Just checking here: Do you understand how the liner's tee snout is attached after the liner is in?

Its not completely clear to me in the manual when they mention only double wall pipe is allowed, perhaps they only mean from the stub off the tee to the stove.
That is for the connector stove pipe. This is a common point of confusion because both stove pipe and chimney pipe can be double-walled. Regency could be more explicit here.
 
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Look at page 13 of the F5200 manual, top diagram where there is at least 12" of masonry on all sides. . You can use a clay thimble to pass the snout of the tee through, but it is not necessary. The other diagrams do not apply is if this is an entirely non-combustible wall, unless the plan is to build a stud wall in front of this brick wall.

Just checking here: Do you understand how the liner's tee snout is attached after the liner is in?


That is for the connector stove pipe. This is a common point of confusion because both stove pipe and chimney pipe can be double-walled. Regency could be more explicit here.
I understand how it was connected as I removed it. Was a bit more simplistic being the same chimney pipe from the tee itself to the stove.

I'd have to see the connection but I get the gist of it. The manual isn't specific on where single wall cannot be used which is confusing.
 
It's common for catalytic stoves to strongly recommend using double-wall stove pipe due to cooler flue gases when the stove is running on low.
 
Honestly your dealer doesn't know what he is talking about in that case. You will want double wall connector pipe and an insulated liner. But single wall stainless will come out the wall. Insulating the snout as much as possible is good but absolutely not required
I clarified my question to them to make sure they were not referring to stovepipe but no, they are saying anywhere.

I did call regency and they just said "insulated" when my question was related to a tech. I emailed them hoping for a clearer response.

I see you mentioned selling regency and being very knowledgeable about actual codes, I trust your comments.

Here is the dealers response when I asked specifically about using single wall in the chase.

"No, for that unit specifically, you cannot use single wall at any point. It specifies that on page 11 - it is only to have listed double wall pipe only."
 
Actually, the directions on page 12 of the manual are closer to applying here. Again, the instructions on that page apply only to the connector. They do not make reference to the masonry liner, the number of walls, or the insulation thereof. The chimney liner most likely would be insulated, single-wall. This is obvious to me, but Regency could make this distinction clearer by specifically stating: Approved with listed double wall connector pipe only.
 
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Actually, the directions on page 12 of the manual are closer to applying here. Again, the instructions on that page apply only to the connector. They do not make reference to the masonry liner, the number of walls, or the insulation thereof. The chimney liner most likely would be insulated, single-wall. This is obvious to me, but Regency could make this distinction clearer by specifically stating: Approved with listed double wall connector pipe only.
It would make sense if they specified which is only approved with double wall. With their note its ambiguous if the entire run has to be double wall. Doesn't make sense in a chase to me.