Regency U41 - Pilot lit but won't fire main...

[krc]

Regency U41. 910-028 valve per part diagram. Robert Shaw valve.
Pilot lights and holds solid flame. Yes - moved to "on".

When turn on switch main burner does NOT light.
TH - TH/TP when off is 330-335mv
TH - TH/TP when on is unchanged. I would expect a drop to fire solenoid.

Ohm-ing out switch leads...
Switch when off : TH - TH/TP OL
when on: 0 ohm

But shorting switch terminals across valve also doesn't light main burner.
that is th-th/tp
Pile voltage seems low but puzzled why i don't see a drop across the thermopile when I turn switch on.

Curious why voltage won't drop...

 

[Fingerlakes Fireplace]

How many ohms of resistance do you have on the gas valve coil?

 

[krc]

When I pull off the thermopile and switch connections (and leaving the black wire connecting to back of valve to TH/TP IIRC)
TP - TH/TP - 9.5Ohms
TH - TH/TP - 1500 Ohms (I think that is high but not sure as I see 1.5 in a lot of the literature but can't tell if that is Ohms or kOhms).

 

[Fingerlakes Fireplace]

When I pull off the thermopile and switch connections (and leaving the black wire connecting to back of valve to TH/TP IIRC)
TP - TH/TP - 9.5Ohms
TH - TH/TP - 1500 Ohms (I think that is high but not sure as I see 1.5 in a lot of the literature but can't tell if that is Ohms or kOhms).

I have a new valve here that I tested, and it is1.5 ohms

 

[krc]

Guess the valve is bad? Seems strange though as it was working "perfectly" up to a couple of days ago. I will re-check.

 

[Fingerlakes Fireplace]

If you're reading of 1500 ohms is correct, your valve is definitely bad.

 

[krc]

TP/TH-TP is 9.5Ohm
TP-TH is 1500Ohm (I mis-labeled what I was measuring in the previous post - sorry)
Going off this guide:

https://gdainfo.com/Resource1049853HJDUFOS023X/Touble%20Shooting/Robertshaw%20Millivolt%20Tests.pdf

So seems like a bad valve.
Anyone familiar with regency inserts (U41)? Doesn't seem much direct access to replace the valve. Do you normally have to pull the entire insert out or can you get to these if you remove the burner assembly/logs?

Thanks for you help "furnace to fireplace".
K

 

[krc]

I am thinking this is an old insert unit but I like the look as it juts out and looks like a more traditional wood stove. The regency models I see now no longer have that look. I suspect this is a 1996-98 unit, so 20+ years. Question - is it worth repairing? II assume new gas valve and probably would change the pilot/thermopile as well. Seems a PIA to get at the gas valve and remove.

It came with the house I bought in 2010. Generally reliable - have had to trouble shoot a switch issue in the past.

I just don't see anything new that has a similar look (regency, u41). Seems to be discontinued model now....

Thanks for any insights...
K

 

[Fingerlakes Fireplace]

I am thinking this is an old insert unit but I like the look as it juts out and looks like a more traditional wood stove. The regency models I see now no longer have that look. I suspect this is a 1996-98 unit, so 20+ years. Question - is it worth repairing? II assume new gas valve and probably would change the pilot/thermopile as well. Seems a PIA to get at the gas valve and remove.

It came with the house I bought in 2010. Generally reliable - have had to trouble shoot a switch issue in the past.

I just don't see anything new that has a similar look (regency, u41). Seems to be discontinued model now....

Thanks for any insights...
K

The gas valve is $226, and the pilot assembly is $60 or $80 depending which one, so for like $300 you could rebuild it. I would inspect the burner and fire box, and if there is no major rust, I would say it is worth say it is worth sinking that money into it.

 

[krc]

Thanks. Will give that a shot.

 

[krc]

Giving an update... was able to order a valve and replaced. Seems to be working fine. Replaced thermopile and pilot as well. Seems to be a bit louder (not the blower)... not sure why... but heats and flame seems stable. Used a gas detector to confirm fittings not leaking. So far so good.

Thanks.