remove gas log, plug hole and add liner and insert, is that all

[mr mr]

I have a heatilator t4200 that can burn wood as well as a gas log. It currently has a gas log that I want to remove and install a wood burning insert (I have no masonry). I have a few questions and would appreciate any hep/comments/suggestions as I know very little about this topic, other than what I have read here.

1. When the gas gas log is removed is it ok just to weld up where the knockout went, is it necessary?

2. For the liner, do I just need to run magnaflex up the existing 8" flue pipe and hook it direct to the insert?

3. If the wood burning insert fits in the existing opening can I use it, or are there different inserts made for masonry and pre-fab boxes like mine?

Thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
Bill

 

[begreen]

You could just pop rivet a patch over the hole. I believe you'll need to run a full 6" liner for the insert. You can use an insert that states in its manual that it is approved for zero-clearance installation. Be sure to build up the fireplace floor enough so that the insert has a solid base to sit on. Cement board works well for this.

 

[Fireshoppe]

First, the firebox floor will now be required to hold 300lbs + which it was not designed to do. second, the flue center line is 16" back from the front of this unit requiring some sort of offset from the stove outlet to the flu inlet as the typical insert outlet is ~ 9 to 14" to CL from the shroud. Is the hearth extension level with the firebox floor? if not either find a flush insert or be prepared to fabricate something to hold the front 1/4 of the insert up. In short, it can be done but as bg suggested you are taking a lot upon your self and the above are just a few of the considerations.

Consider a change out. The BIS Panorama will fit under the primary header (51 1/2") of your unit as well as the depth and width but will require re work of the finish materials but when finished you would have a very nice upgrade. We have done this several times (with similar units as yours) and it is not as difficult as it seems. Where in MO are you?

 

[mr mr]

Thanks guys. There is a 6 foot square concrete pad poured under the house directly under the fire box that I am going to use to add extra support for the increased weight. I will also have to fabricate some "feet" for the part of the insert that sticks out of the firebox. Cement board for shims is a great idea, will definitely use.

Will the rivets hold up to the heat?

Is there an adapter made for the offset from the insert to the flue?

The insert I am looking at is one my grandpa bought around 1989, should I be concerned about the age? I am not sure of the make/model yet.

Also, there is a hole in the firebrick of the ZC heatilator fireplace that the gas line is currently running through, I am assuming that I need either fill the hole with refractory cement or replace the entire piece. Or is the firebrick in the ZC even necessary.

Thanks for your help, I am in Marshfield.

 

[begreen]

Yes, the rivets will be fine. You can use stainless pop rivets if concerned. They are used to hold together rigid flue liner which will get a lot hotter than the heatilator ever will. The offset, or not, will depend on the insert. Some inserts have adjustable depth or an angled, aft located vent like the Avalon Rainier. I would not put in an old insert, 1989 is probably pre-EPA. Get a modern EPA unit approved for this use or do as Fireshoppe recommended and replace the old ZC with a new one. That will keep your insurance company a lot happier and you will use less wood with a better, cleaner view of the fire.

 

[Fireshoppe]

I would recommend talking to Buck Stoves and Spas on E Division or HMI in Nixa and tell Charlie I said hi.

 

[mr mr]

What advantages would a new ZC have over my current unit?
About the BIS Panorama , would it be on par with and insert as far as heating? I am assuming not since it is a fireplace.

I have heard good things about Buck stoves on division, thanks.

 

[Fireshoppe]

(broken link removed)

3.0 cu ft hybrid design high e wood stove built into your wall.

 

[mr mr]

The insert I have is a blaze king kff-403, I realize it is pre-EPA, but is acceptable for a ZC installation with no masonry. I know it puts out a lot of heat.

It is a chunk at 400lbs. I am glad I have the concrete pad underneath.

 

[begreen]

Page one of the manual makes it clear this is not to be installed in a zc fireplace.

 

[mr mr]

Well I ordered a quad fire classic bay 1200i yesterday. Complete install with all parts included, a ton of pellets and ash vacuum for $3100 with tax. Does that sound fair?

I figure propane will never go below 2.25 again in missouri so it should pay for itself in about 8 years. I have always wanted wood heat and the wife wants to be warmer so win win.

 

[begreen]

I owned that insert. It is a solid performer.

 

[Fireshoppe]

That sounds cheap. Be sure the liner extends all the way to the top of the chimney. Nixa Hardware right?