In trying to replace my gasket in the glass of the doors, when I attempted to take one of the screws out in broke in half...one half is still in the door. Bf has a tap set (but he's still at work) is this do-able? Or am I in big oooopppps! :-/
Removing bolt from cast door?
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Like GWB said, give it hourly soakings with a little penetrating fluid. Is any of the screw sticking out yet? If so, sometimes a pair of vise grips can get ahold of it and you can turn it out. Beyond that, its gonna be a grind it flat, and a small, sharp drill bit. A left handed drill bit can also be a handy tool for this job.
WES999
Minister of Fire
In general if a screw is frozen and snaps off from trying to unscrew it an EZ out is unlikely to work. If you try an thread extractor be very careful. If you break off an
EZout you have just made the job 10 times harder, they are very difficult to remove. The left hand drill and penetrating oil is good idea.
Sometimes it is better just to drill and tap and not bother with an EZ out.
EZout you have just made the job 10 times harder, they are very difficult to remove. The left hand drill and penetrating oil is good idea.
Sometimes it is better just to drill and tap and not bother with an EZ out.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Once you do get the bolts out, put some Never-Seize in there before rebolting together. So next time you don't have this problem.
edthedawg
Minister of Fire
If this screw only helps hold in the door glass/gasket, then you're probably better off just grinding flush, drilling, and re-tapping. KISS principle. Wasting time and risking an EZ-out snapping off in there seems like, well, a waste of time. 
If this is a more loadbearing hinge-pin type of bolt, you may want to rethink that approach. Rusty metal that's gotten really hot can be a royal pain in the butt to work with. Just ask anyone who's ever worked on a car exhaust (heck you may have done so yourself)
And if you wind up with the whole door frame falling apart in your hands, find a machine shop that has welders who know how to weld-repair cast iron (assuming you have a cast iron door frame). Cast welds a lot differently than conventional steels due to the higher carbon & sulfur content. An old & well-established heating & plumbing company may be able to help locate someone with the ability to weld it, too.
If this is a more loadbearing hinge-pin type of bolt, you may want to rethink that approach. Rusty metal that's gotten really hot can be a royal pain in the butt to work with. Just ask anyone who's ever worked on a car exhaust (heck you may have done so yourself)
And if you wind up with the whole door frame falling apart in your hands, find a machine shop that has welders who know how to weld-repair cast iron (assuming you have a cast iron door frame). Cast welds a lot differently than conventional steels due to the higher carbon & sulfur content. An old & well-established heating & plumbing company may be able to help locate someone with the ability to weld it, too.
You should be ok. I found it pretty easy to drill out old bolts that snap off, then re-tap them. Just be sure to use a flat-bottomed plug tap and not a tapered one.
edthedawg
Minister of Fire
BeGreen said:
What you don't want the tapered-point tap to poke out thru the front of the door?? :cheese:
I just had a bolt break off in my cast stove, I then had the the ease out break in the bolt as I was rushing the job. I was lucky enough to have access to the other end of the bolt by taking the top of the stove. I soaked it with nut buster, then I drilled the bolt and before inserting the ease out and attempting to remove it I used a propane torch and heated 2 sides of the metal next to the bolt. This helped to break it free and I did it a few times while removing it. Good luck.
Thanks all! The bolt is what holds a 1/2 inch x 4 inch plate that holds the glass inplace,in the door. I called the bf at work, and he said he'll just have to drill and tap...he said no biggy :D
Figured I'd ask on here, wasn't too sure about cast iron...I know nothing about metal
Guess once that is finished then and I try to get the rope gasket in there again
Figured I'd ask on here, wasn't too sure about cast iron...I know nothing about metal
Guess once that is finished then and I try to get the rope gasket in there again
Be very careful when retightening those bolts. Too much tension will shatter the glass. You want the gasket to just start to compress and not much more.
BeGreen said:
Thanks will do, I've heard that the glass gets very pricey
The old gasket I pulled out of there is way different then the one I bought. It's kind of like a "U" shape the sides are braided rope and the bottom is just flat material, don't know where I will find this type of gasket.
Some stoves use gasketing specific to stove glass. They make a product for this.
Here's an example. It comes in 13/16" or 3/4".
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Woods...eting-Repair/HomeSaver-Gasket-Window-13-16x54
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Woodstove-Corner/Woodstove-Gasketing-Repair
This is 11/16", note the picture is wrong here:
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/29...ets-and-Glue/Stove-Glass-Gasket-Black-93.html
Here's an example. It comes in 13/16" or 3/4".
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Woods...eting-Repair/HomeSaver-Gasket-Window-13-16x54
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Woodstove-Corner/Woodstove-Gasketing-Repair
This is 11/16", note the picture is wrong here:
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/29...ets-and-Glue/Stove-Glass-Gasket-Black-93.html
Thanks Be Green, I checked the local hardware store on-line, and they seem to have what I need! Gonna head over soon :D
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