Removing corner factory POS to wood stove.....Help

[jorswift]

Ok everyone. I finally came to the conclusion that I want to put in a wood stove. I have a Majestic factor POS currently and I fear a failure or worse, fire with it. Plus as you all know it is horrible! So after reading and searching on here I finally convinced my wife to remove the fireplace and do something like another member did. The below pics are my fireplace and a member's woodstove from here.

Since I have limited space (after I knock out the wall with the fireplace) and want to do this somewhat on a budget, I am thinking a minimal clearance stove from Lowes of Menards with a blower. Woodpro, Drolet Escape, Summer Heat, Pleasant Hearth. It needs to have a glass door and a pedestal (wife's requirements). I figure I would start here and upgrade eventually after we see how it goes.

I plan on knocking out the fireplace wall. Adding cement board and tiling to the ceiling on both sides. Also, tiling the floor in the that area. What kind of pipe can I run up to the ceiling? After than I'm guessing it has to be a double or triple wall.

What type of liner/chimney does mine have now? It looks to be stainless and goes through a wood framed chase. Do I need to get a different liner for the wood stove?

I plan on moving my thermostat or getting an Ecobee3/4 with wireless sensors to help maintain the bedroom temps. My goal is to help with the electric bill since I am all electric during cold season.

Any help, thoughts, ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[bholler]

Ok everyone. I finally came to the conclusion that I want to put in a wood stove. I have a Majestic factor POS currently and I fear a failure or worse, fire with it. Plus as you all know it is horrible! So after reading and searching on here I finally convinced my wife to remove the fireplace and do something like another member did. The below pics are my fireplace and a member's woodstove from here.

Since I have limited space (after I knock out the wall with the fireplace) and want to do this somewhat on a budget, I am thinking a minimal clearance stove from Lowes of Menards with a blower. Woodpro, Drolet Escape, Summer Heat, Pleasant Hearth. It needs to have a glass door and a pedestal (wife's requirements). I figure I would start here and upgrade eventually after we see how it goes.

I plan on knocking out the fireplace wall. Adding cement board and tiling to the ceiling on both sides. Also, tiling the floor in the that area. What kind of pipe can I run up to the ceiling? After than I'm guessing it has to be a double or triple wall.

What type of liner/chimney does mine have now? It looks to be stainless and goes through a wood framed chase. Do I need to get a different liner for the wood stove?

I plan on moving my thermostat or getting an Ecobee3/4 with wireless sensors to help maintain the bedroom temps. My goal is to help with the electric bill since I am all electric during cold season.

Any help, thoughts, ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Well after tear out you will run single or doublewall connector pipe from the stoce to the ceiling then transition to class a chimney pipe. Your old chimney will get torn out with the fireplace. Be aware that the budget stoves from lowes hd etc generally have larger ckearance requirements and higher hearth requirements than some others and simply tiling the wall does not change them.

 

[jorswift]

I seen on the Summers Heat and the WoodPro, clearances are around 8" or so for corner install. Do you have any recommendation on stoves with minimal clearances? I also read that since it is on a pedestal, that the hearth doesn't have to be as big or high. What is the safest for the walls? I thought cement board and tile/stone was "noncombustible"? Thanks for the help.

 

[bholler]

I seen on the Summers Heat and the WoodPro, clearances are around 8" or so for corner install. Do you have any recommendation on stoves with minimal clearances? I also read that since it is on a pedestal, that the hearth doesn't have to be as big or high. What is the safest for the walls? I thought cement board and tile/stone was "noncombustible"? Thanks for the help.

8" is pretty good you probably wont get much below that. As far as the hearth goes every stove will spec out what is needed. Some are ember protection only in which case cement board and tile are fine. But others require a set r value for the hearth which may require more than that. And yes cement board and tile are noncombustible but you will still have wood behind it so your clearances would be to that wood unless a reduction is specified in the stoves manual.

 

[WinterinWI]

The Drolet Escape 1800 clearance is 5" from stove corner to combustibles if you're using double wall pipe.

 

[Hogwildz]

The Englander/Summer Heat(Same stove, same manufacturer) comes with blower, pedestal & legs if you want to change the pedestal to legs.

 

[jorswift]

Thanks! My house is only about 1800 sqft . What are your recommendations? Also, what kind of pipe do you recommend, single or double before ceiling? I am going to want to hang my skulls/antlers/heads and have a beam mantle.

 

[jorswift]

After reading on here again, I see the Summers Heat is on sale for $599. I may have to jump on it and set it in the barn until I can install it. I have vaulted ceilings, do I need anything special for that?

 

[jorswift]

8" is pretty good you probably wont get much below that. As far as the hearth goes every stove will spec out what is needed. Some are ember protection only in which case cement board and tile are fine. But others require a set r value for the hearth which may require more than that. And yes cement board and tile are noncombustible but you will still have wood behind it so your clearances would be to that wood unless a reduction is specified in the stoves manual.

Do I need to install a 1" air gap between stud and cement board? My cement board will be going directly to the wood studs.

 

[T-roy_]

Not if the listed stove clearances are met. The 1” air gap comes into play for heat shielding to reduce clearances.

 

[maple1]

Seems to me you should confirm what you have for a chimney before you get too far along here...

 

[jorswift]

Seems to me you should confirm what you have for a chimney before you get too far along here...

What do you mean? I have a framed in chase with the factory built liner going up through the ceiling, attic, roof. I see "DuraVent" now offers a liner that is "safe" for factory built chimneys for wood stoves, etc.

 

[maple1]

It has to be more than just a liner in a chase.

 

[jorswift]

It has to be more than just a liner in a chase.

How can I tell? I cant get on the roof at the moment and I cant see it from inside the fireplace? I can get into the attic, but will I be able to see anything on the pipe? I don't want to knock out the wall yet, until I can start on the build. Was going to maybe get the unit and put it in the barn, as it is only on sale until the 5th.

 

[maple1]

Looking at whats in the attic should help. Can you post a pic of the top of it - outside the roof?

Just seems like a few question marks without knowing what it is, how the fireplace is hooked to it, and what all the clearances are.

(A liner is installed inside a chimney. A chase is put around a chimney. Can't have a liner without a chimney. Could be a mix up of terms being used...)

 

[jorswift]

Looking at whats in the attic should help. Can you post a pic of the top of it - outside the roof?

Just seems like a few question marks without knowing what it is, how the fireplace is hooked to it, and what all the clearances are.

(A liner is installed inside a chimney. A chase is put around a chimney. Can't have a liner without a chimney. Could be a mix up of terms being used...)

I can't get on the roof at the moment (too much snow and too cold)! I can possibly get some pictures of the pipe in the attic. I don't have a masonry chimney. It is all stick built, with what appears to "look like" a chimney sticking out and above the roof with the pipe coming out of the middle of it. It is all stick built and has siding on it.

I looked in the manual on the POS fireplace and its a Majestic, says to use SK8 chimney?

 

[maple1]

A pic from the ground MAY help. That won't tell about clearances & whether it is a proper install for a stove or not. You might have an insulated stainless chimney, but can't tell from your description.

 

[bholler]

Do I need to install a 1" air gap between stud and cement board? My cement board will be going directly to the wood studs.

Just meet the required clearances and the wall could be drywall.

 

[bholler]

The chimney on that fireplace is not suitable for a wood stove. It will need replaced.

 

[jorswift]

This my my chase.

 

[maple1]

OK, that doesn't tell much. Or doesn't tell me much anyway.

But bholler knows his stuff.

 

[jorswift]

Yes! I figure he knows!

 

[jorswift]

Another question...
The Summers Heat 50-shssw01, it says a mantle has to be 36” from the top of the stove which is 36” tall. That’s 72”. My wife won’t like that. How far away can it be to be lower than that? Thanks.

 

[Woody Stover]

My two cents; If you can swing some cash, buy a quality stove (do your research.) You'll never be sorry you spent that money. Like they say, the bitterness of low quality remains, after the sweetness of a low price is long gone. That enamel stove in the pics you posted looks mighty nice..

 

[Hogwildz]

Just because the SH is not expensive, does not mean it is a low quality stove.