Removing old gasket

[Sully]

I pull gasket off and half if it is still glued in channel. What's beat way to get it all out of there

 

[begreen]

Use a screwdriver and patiently but thoroughly work out the remaining cement.

 

[BrotherBart]

I chuck a small wire wheel brush in an electric drill and make short work of the glue. Outside and a mask suggested.

After you use the screwdriver suggested to chisel the gasket out.

 

[DAKSY]

Use a screwdriver and patiently but thoroughly work out the remaining cement.

Agreed. If you plan on burning wood for the foreseeable future, take an old flathead screwdriver & form grind a full radius on the width of the blade. It makes a real handy scraper for gasket channels. You can even tap the end of the handle with a small hammer to remove stubborn gasket cement if you need to...

 

[mellow]

I do the same as brotherbart, small wire wheel. Gets it out quick and easy. I will wet the gasket as well, sometimes that helps get the cement to come up easier and it keeps the fibers from spreading as much.

 

[Boiler74]

Would a Dremel with a rounded grinding stone be too aggressive?

 

[mellow]

Would a Dremel with a rounded grinding stone be too aggressive?

Yes. Unless you are dealing with a crazy cement that is left behind one slip with that thing and you can cause some damage. I would only use a wire wheel or chisel/flat head screw driver. For stubborn cement I have found putting wd40 on it and letting it sit for a bit helps to remove it.

 

[bag of hammers]

Also have an Osburn 2200 @ 5 years old with silicone gasket. A flat head screwdriver got it all out without much issue. It was applied a bit light though at the factory - I believe I was a bit more generous with the glue when I replaced it this year.

 

[Sully]

The silicone came up easy , but the installer attempted to replace gasket that was broken and he used cement. That was a pain to chip away. He used wrong style gasket for osburn so I replaced today. Have not fired it up yet but it's a nice tight door , flame does not move when take around edges. Dollar bill pulls out though. I have to tug it though.

 

[stoveguy13]

door sounds fine if you have to tug hard

 

[Sully]

Cool. The only thing I see is the seem. How do you keep threads from plying out. I tried to rub silicone on seem but it's to sticky. Might try a little cement to harden up seem

 

[stoveguy13]

i wouldnt worry to much about it the gasket should be replaced every 3-5 yrs on average.

 

[Sully]

It's says wait 24 hours to have fire. Of course tonight is first night dropping below 30. Def have to wait ? The wife is not happy lol. I'm working night shift I told her to use the heat but like me she hates paying those bills. What's a night right haha

 

[Ashful]

Keep in mind, the gasket groove is to be filled with compressible gasket, not incompressible cement. There should be a smearing of cement sufficient to hold the gasket , nothing more.

 

[bag of hammers]

Cool. The only thing I see is the seem. How do you keep threads from plying out. I tried to rub silicone on seem but it's to sticky. Might try a little cement to harden up seem

I had a bit of trouble trying for a nice clean cut on the ends too. I did the best I could, there's a bit of "strays" where the ends butt together, I suppose I could have trimmed it up perfect but I left it alone. I've had 4 or 5 fires (weekends) since changing it out, and it's a non issue so far - the gasket still looks like it did a month ago, no leaks, door is nice and snug all around. I dunno about rushing the cure time - I let it go full 24 hours before lighting a fire as per the manufacturer instructions.

Your installer used wrong gasket, and cement to replace existing silicone..? does cement cure / harden more quickly? wonder why he would do that?

 

[Sully]

Yeah I was pissed. He just grabbed stuff from Home Depot

 

[jharkin]

You want to get the surface down to metal all around for the best bond and to make sure you dont get any high spots under the new gasket.

I use a dremel with a grinding tip all the time .... Fastest easiest way to do it. Its not a problem for the stove at all, you will quickly learn how to feel that you have worked through the cement down to bare metal. You would really have to work at it to remove a lot of metal in a cast iron gasket channel.

 

[bag of hammers]

You would really have to work at it to remove a lot of metal in a cast iron gasket channel.

For sure, but fwiw the channel in the 2200 is steel - the channel sections screw on to the door over the glass gasket, to hold the glass panels in place. It kinda serves 2 purposes I guess. It appears you have to remove the door gasket to remove the channel, to replace any glass. I have limited experience with this so no idea if this is the case with other stoves or just a weird design....?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I chuck a small wire wheel brush in an electric drill and make short work of the glue. Outside and a mask suggested.

After you use the screwdriver suggested to chisel the gasket out.

Like this.