Repaint, clean and repair harman accentra inert

[aviator79]

So i was just going to pull stove out to clean but decided to at least repaint the heat exchanger covers, flame guide and center medallion.

Started trying to clean heat exchangers and having a hard time getting them to like new clean. Was using imperial clear flame 2in1 glass and masonry cleaner so probably need a better product. The stove always gets a ton of ash on the heat exchangers and efficiency drops dramatically. Not sure that can be fixed but getting them as smooth as possible seems like best way to help make it so when clean i am able to remove as much build-up as possible. So thinking I may work on that but we ill see how far I get.

Next the burn pot could use some paint so may also remove that to paint. At that point may also see if can remove auger. Can't afford a new one as assume a bit worn as its noisy but think cleaning it could be beneficial.

Next the hopper lid stopped staying open a while back so may remove that to try and fix locking hinge but have just been using a butter knife to hold open without much difficulty so may not be worth it.

Most of the exterior paint still looks good so will see how well can clean up but may have to paint the bottom lip and possibly hopper. If matches then the rest of it should be ok. We will see...

Here is original build thred when moved and had to install where wood stove was:

Install Harman insert in place of wood stove

I took the flex as being his 4" and the class A as double wall that the flex is running up into, no ? From the early photos, that nasty crumpled flex appears to have been there right after he removed the old wood stove. I could be wrong. It happens once a year............ ;em:ZZZ;sick

www.hearth.com

 

[Washed-Up]

I used CLR and scotchbrite pads to remove the rust on stoves I’ve painted, then water on a microfiber to rinse any residual. Acetone all of the areas you intend to paint and it will make the paint stick. I used VHT flat black on the fire boxes and burn pots as per Dons suggestions. It’s a bit of work but is definitely worth the time. Looks good so far...good luck and post your progress.

 

[aviator79]

So first things first the heat exchanger covers etc...


Bought a can of Stove Bright 6903 will be here next week so going to try to prep the the parts for paint today by removing buildup and rust with wire wheel and sandblast.

Started with cleaning in sink best I could (which is partly why so rusty).
Then used table wire wheel but only so much can reach with that. Could not find a wire wheel for angle grinder or pneumatic grinder so just sandblasted. Was able to remove rest of hard deposits from flame guide and medallion piece.
Castings are so rough can't remove rust so at this point just going to soak in evaporust and see how turn out.

 

[aviator79]

Got the burn pot out and cleaned up decent.
Was able to pickup burn pot gasket and they had Stove Brite paint so got a can of flat and satin.

 

[rickwai]

The paint will burn off in 5 minutes I think?

 

[Washed-Up]

If you’re using VHT 2000f header paint and it’s air dried then burned in properly, it’ll last....stove brite is meant for exterior and will burn off.

 

[aviator79]

The paint will burn off in 5 minutes I think?

Idk what internal temp actually gets to but think below 1100°F and looking at pellet reviews seems its likely under 500°F in but assume things may get hotter. Paint is rated to 1200°F.

If you’re using VHT 2000f header paint and it’s air dried then burned in properly, it’ll last....stove brite is meant for exterior and will burn off.

Ok just bought 2 cans will g pickup now so can hopefully paint today. Thanks
Edit, the VHT is ceramic coating so idk if really ideal for the heat exchanger covers. Or does it really matter...i mean is less heat going to transfer and more heat go up chimney? Seems unlikely...

Friend sent me a thing in elecolosis cleaning. Probably be the way to go had I planned this out better. Oh well.

What the heat exchanger covers really need is to be run thru a tumbler like they do with machined parts. The evaporust may help but did not have enough to submerge them all so not sure will be 100% rust free. Going to wire brush them best i can see if works.

As said the castings are so rough that even after painting still going to be hard to clean properly with all the nooks and crannies. But paint may help smooth out. Will at least look better then rust and I'm sure will clean a bit easier. At same time wonder if paint will decrease heat transfer efficiency...probably not a huge issue, idk

I got auger removed. Could not find proper adapters for my snap ring plyers and with OAK tube in the way there is not much room.
Soaked in pinesol overnight then used wire brush and bench grinder.
This posts says used CRC Industrial Strength High Temperature Dry Moly in auger tune but cant find it so maybe stopped making it? Not sure if should use anything or just clean and be done with it

Holy Harman Auger Pox Batman!

Boy what a blunder! I just janked the Harman P61 auger for some super auger service. I cleaned and buffed the auger and ground down the welds a little so the pellets would flow more smoothly. Afterwards, I gave it a good coat of Dry Moly spray. Then I looked in the auger shaft and Holy Moly...

www.hearth.com

Got hopper cover off and need a new hinge but cannot find the part needed. Can possibly repair but not sure worth it. I recall getting missing pin out of hopper before went thru stove but idk where I put it.

 

[Mt Bob]

There is an upgrade for the latch--

Accentra Insert Hopper Latch Kit (1-00-674139)

Replacement Harman Accentra Insert Hopper Lid Spring Latch Kit. Harman part # 1-00-674139

www.stove-parts-unlimited.com

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[aviator79]

There is an upgrade for the latch--

Accentra Insert Hopper Latch Kit (1-00-674139)

Replacement Harman Accentra Insert Hopper Lid Spring Latch Kit. Harman part # 1-00-674139

www.stove-parts-unlimited.com

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I saw that. Thanks for video. Yikes. $113. Going to stick with butter knife.
I get why they revised as thing will take a finger off.

 

[Washed-Up]

I have painted the heat exchangers to protect the metal if there was rust on them that I removed....otherwise I wouldn’t worry about them too much...good progress, I really enjoy following along.

 

[aviator79]

I have painted the heat exchangers to protect the metal if there was rust on them that I removed....otherwise I wouldn’t worry about them too much...good progress, I really enjoy following along.

I appreciate that.

Used wire wheel on everything and sandblasted where could not reach as evaporust made more rust then removing, probably due to being old idk. Forgot to take pics of them prior to painting but wire wheel did ok job.. Wiped with acetone using the blue paper towels and then blew off with compressor. Best i could do for prep.

Got everything painted last night.

Doing yard work all day today so no more progress.

Bought CRC moly lube to spray in auger feed tube.

Still lots to do but glad doing a more thorough cleaning this year.

I only run a ton or so a year these days. Picked up 80 bags of greene teams for $250/ton using $20 off $100 lowes coupons. Not my favorite but honestly hammers @$310 not worth it due to carbon buildup I get in burn pot. Every good peelet costs too much in CT. With Hammers have to scrape it off after every bag.
Ash is my biggest issue with how heat drops off exponentially when dont clean but we will see how these burn.

Year before last did not use use due to bird making nest in OAI so make sure you put screen over intake.

 

[aviator79]

So was going to buy this make a rectangular cutout (only for edge of cover) and remove torn gasket material.
Should be ok?

Pellet & Wood Stove Motor & Fan Seal Gasket, Liotherm High Temp 1' x 2' Sheet | eBay

Liotherm High Temperature Fire Rated Stove & Fireplace Fiber Gasket Seal, 24″ x 12″ Sheet. Liotherm Fire Rated Stove Gasket Sheet. MaterialHigh Temperature Fire Rated Fiber Gasket - Liotherm Gasketing.

www.ebay.com

 

[Washed-Up]

Yeah that should work.

 

[aviator79]

Was making good progress initialy but now starting to drag this out longer than planned.

Decided to repaint exterior as had already bought the paint.

Have washed parts and sanded rust/crayon/wax and just blowing off as washing the bare metal causes rust.

Only going to get to 54°F today at 4pm so about to paint. Paint says 60-90°F so waming parts inside sitting on top of heaters.

Will wipe with acetone, blow off then paint and bring back inside to dry.

Only have one can of satin so won't be able to do everything today.

 

[Washed-Up]

Shouldn’t have to wash the parts, just use acetone.

 

[aviator79]

Shouldn’t have to wash the parts, just use acetone.

Well i wash grime off prior to wire brush/sandblast. But after, no can't due to bare metal.
Even with lint free paper towels get lots of pieces of towel attached due to rough castings so have to wipe with hand as blow off with compressor.

Got side swing side panels, ash lip and top of door painted sunday.

Got more paint so could paint door and hopper cover today as only nice day. Hopefully spotyness (from where was bare metal) goes away or will have to do more coats. Had same issue on other parts but look fine now but did like 10 coats. These have probably six coats...got cold.

 

[aviator79]

Just realized that to remove three-piece surround will be a lot of work due to zero clearance cabinet and wood trim. Forgot about all that...so idk if worth it but still trying to remove as need access to snake HDMI and center speaker wire anyways. And think going to be obvious if dont paint. As you can see the trim also not perfect but always planned to just use filler to make look ok.

If cant get them out easy to paint will just clean them up for now...and possibly some day will paint them inside taped off with plastic and fans in windows...Idk.

 

[Washed-Up]

Wow, that looks great

 

[aviator79]

Had to put this off for a while but boiler block cracked last weekend so finally put it back together.
Running great. Glad to have a backup heat source.
Still need to put wood trim back on but paint came out good.
Keep warm!

 

[rickwai]

I saw that. Thanks for video. Yikes. $113. Going to stick with butter knife.
I get why they revised as thing will take a finger off.

I know When the new style came out they sold for $25, I sold a ton of them during fall cleanings. Then shortly after the cost was over $100. I saw the price tag and insisted that must be the price for a 10 pack not a single. It was confirmed the price was correct? It dont make sense.

 

[Washed-Up]

Looks real good! Well done!

 

[rickwai]

I saw one where the homeowner took the lid latch completely off and put a nice big magnet on the surround so the lid would open vertical and hold. Best idea I have seen yet

 

[aviator79]

I use a butter knife. Those hinges should be $10. Its a huge turn off for harman to sell a replacement for a defective part for $100 when should be free. That faulty hinge lock for lid has surely broken someone's finger.

Have run about 10 bags so far. House 69 with just pellets so not bad. Though i sure course use a hit shower! Stove ran out of pellets yesterday so let it cool for an hour or so and did a quick vac and empty of ash pan. Pulled heat exchanger covers and a quick brush and vac of those and heat exchanger. 5 min of work and stove running hot as ever. Idk why never did these quick cleans before as would always do a more thorough clean but because took longer did less often.

 

[Washed-Up]

On the Advance 2 I just rebuilt, I used a bunch of synthetic grease on the latch, made it way easier to open.

 

[tbear853]

Painting the burn pot?