Replacement engine for Huskee 22T splitter

[blel]

Any ideas on what to use to replace B+S engine on Huskee 22T splitter. Valve seat, not valve, is leaking . Shop has tried to repair but no luck. I have heard this has happened before on these Briggs engines

 

[j7art2]

I don't know if it'll be a direct bolt on fit, but if you can get a Harbor Freight Predator engine, they are known solid performers. They're actually one brand I would prefer in engines as they're one of the things Harbor Freight is known for doing very well. Prices are fair too.

 

[brenndatomu]

I don't know if it'll be a direct bolt on fit, but if you can get a Harbor Freight Predator engine, they are known solid performers. They're actually one brand I would prefer in engines as they're one of the things Harbor Freight is known for doing very well. Prices are fair too.

Yup...and I'm not a big HF fan, but these lil engines can't be beat for the money (especially with a discount coupon!)

6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA/CARB

Amazing deals on this 6.5Hp (212Cc) Horiz Shaft Gas Engine at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[brenndatomu]

And if you were inclined to want a faster splitter, that 212cc engine will pull a 13GPM 2 stage pump ($135) which at least on my Champion 23T, knocks another 2(+) seconds off cycle time, so somewhere in the 10.xx second range for a full cycle...which rarely a full stroke is actually needed.

Hydraulic Log Splitter Gear Pump: 2-Stage, 13 GPM

This 2-stage hydraulic pump combines a large displacement low-pressure pump and a small displacement high-pressure pump. It is ideal for use with log splitters, machine tools, trash compactors, and other applications. 13 GPM flow rate 3,000 pressure rating 1/2" shaft diameter 1.5" shaft length...

ruggedmade.com

 

[farmwithjunk]

HF only shows a 5.5HP if your Huskee has a vertical shaft. You could see if a "Duromax" is available if you need a vertical shaft, they are also good engines.

 

[brenndatomu]

5.5 HP will still run a 11 GPM pump...not sure what the Huskee 22 came with...

 

[duramaxman05]

You can replace the head. That's a pretty common problem with briggs. I have done several engines over the years. You can take the head off and tap the guide flush then take a center punch and punch around the guide. I also put some jb weld around the guide before I tapped it back in. It's been running on a mower for 3 or 4 years now. It could be worth a shot if you don't want to spend a lot of money and are capable of doing it yourself.

 

[rwhite]

I'll second the HF option. I put a horizontal shaft predator on my 20t splitter. Far and away better than the B&S that was on there.

 

[qwee]

I would fix the B&S, get a new B&S, or get the gx Honda engine. I replaced a 3.5 HP B&S engine (it was worked pretty hard for about 6 years on a small splitter) with a Harbor Freight predator (212cc). The HF predator lasted a year+. The predator is okay for light duty work. Probably okay if you are only splitting a few cords a year of straight wood. Else, I would get the Honda or B&S engine.

 

[j7art2]

Yup...and I'm not a big HF fan, but these lil engines can't be beat for the money (especially with a discount coupon!)

6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA/CARB

Amazing deals on this 6.5Hp (212Cc) Horiz Shaft Gas Engine at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

My buddy's splitter had a Honda engine on it that lasted 7 years. He replaced it with a Predator, and it's going on year 11 now. He's pretty sure the hydraulics are gonna go before the engine does. Lol

 

[salecker]

Must of been a lemon Honda to only last 7 years

 

[Ashful]

You have seen my thread(s) on hotrodding this very model of log splitter? Got mine down to 8 seconds full cycle, with pretty minimal work, and could push it down to 6 seconds with a few tank and cylinder bung changes.

Since the engine was probably 80% of the total project cost, I'd be using this as an excuse to do some upgrading!

The engine I chose (Intek 21R707) was total overkill, aiming to support a future upgrade to a 22 GPM pump. But it's pretty easy to get up to 16-18 GPM with the existing cylinder and tank, and a modest engine upgrade to 7 - 9 hp.

If you want direct replacement, just pick up another Briggs e675, assuming that's the one that came on your Huskee-22. It's a very common engine, I had two machines that used the same, and kept a spare in my barn when I upgraded my own Huskee.

edit: 4 seconds on ebay turned up this, might be worth the risk for $25. Just an example, did not verify shaft length or RPM are suitable, but the point is, they're out there. It might even be possible to, steal any missing parts off your old engine to put this one back into service, if the configuration checks out the same. Check that full part number against their site, to verify suitability, as they make several configurations within each series number.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165679853954?hash=item269349f182:g:e8cAAOSwShljG6N0&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoFAS9l91FqFMkBuAvXu2ED+LpkiLT68vGp+TOZGx6aUTrG0TDatYFzxhrgqF0sWoe93LzZoCoom7XWHTIZZbNHjpHLEQnLHnblYqZ004/QxHT/z+nAzT0Wrw7GSDwXONE5h0wCIu+7DWPWfBGtAGVJhgdvA8uNPyYRW7uyHqmgQyRoljkug2w9y2U95Oqt6Ug2l0Jzx5mNskkE756o18/n0=|tkp:Bk9SR-CvyvuyYQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

 

[cahaak]

The harbor freight, which is basically an LCT , Honda clone, engine should be a direct fit and is very cost effective.

 

[hedge wood]

I have used the HF motors around here on the farm for years for water pumps to bucket lifts. I haven't had on fail yet. I have change over several of those Husky splitters to HF motors. I would go 6.5 horizonal shaft. Good time to upgrade the pump go 13 or 16 GPM two stage and you will need a new love joy and bracket to mount the pump to the motor. Look at Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska for the pump and supplies. You won't be able to use a HF Vertical motor because of flywheel issues.

 

[Ashful]

I have used the HF motors around here on the farm for years for water pumps to bucket lifts. I haven't had on fail yet. I have change over several of those Husky splitters to HF motors. I would go 6.5 horizonal shaft. Good time to upgrade the pump go 13 or 16 GPM two stage and you will need a new love joy and bracket to mount the pump to the motor. Look at Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska for the pump and supplies. You won't be able to use a HF Vertical motor because of flywheel issues.

No comment on HF motors, never even seen one. But 16 gpm on 6.5 hp sounds like a tall order, particularly if you're over-spinning at 120% and over-pressuring to 3500 psi, to keep with Huskee's ratings. I'd recommend something closer to 300cc for that, not the sub-190 cc displacement of most 6.5 hp motors.

 

[hedge wood]

No comment on HF motors, never even seen one. But 16 gpm on 6.5 hp sounds like a tall order, particularly if you're over-spinning at 120% and over-pressuring to 3500 psi, to keep with Huskee's ratings. I'd recommend something closer to 300cc for that, not the sub-190 cc displacement of most 6.5 hp motors.

I myself won't set any relief valve on a log splitter at 3500 PSI. I normally set them at 2800 PSI and that will get most folks in trouble. Most wood is split at 1500 PSI or less normally at a 1000 PSI . I have put several 16 GPM two stage pumps on the HF 6.5 and never had any issues.

 

[brenndatomu]

I'd recommend something closer to 300cc for that, not the sub-190 cc displacement of most 6.5 hp motors.

The HF 6.5 is a 212cc

 

[Ashful]

I myself won't set any relief valve on a log splitter at 3500 PSI. I normally set them at 2800 PSI and that will get most folks in trouble. Most wood is split at 1500 PSI or less normally at a 1000 PSI . I have put several 16 GPM two stage pumps on the HF 6.5 and never had any issues.

16 GPM at 2800 PSI requires 6 horsepower theoretical, so I'd believe you're getting by fine with 6.5 hp, if your net efficiency (pump + lovejoy + hose losses) is near 92%, or if the motor is actually capable of a few % more than rated power.

However, you'll require 3500 psi to get the true 22 ton rating out of a 4" cylinder. Whether that's wanted/needed/justified is a matter of what you're splitting, but I'd agree that most splitting requires much less force.

I used to rent an Iron and Oak fast cycle splitter with a 3.5" cylinder, and it was great fun. I think it had a 6 second full-stroke time at 24 inches stroke, which is really good for any hydraulic splitter. But I'd hit plenty of stuff that stalled the ram, in any given day. Surely less than 10% of my pile, maybe closer to 2% - 3%, but those few pieces would waste an awful lot of time. I think the splitter was rated around 18 tons.

Step up to my 22 ton machine, and that small difference makes all the difference in the world. I honestly don't think I've ever hit something it doesn't just plow right through. So, now I consider this to be sort of the minimum advisable threshold, although it's only based on my own experience with our local hardwoods. Others in different parts of the country may be fine with much less, or vice versa.

 

[J.Noss]

You have seen my thread(s) on hotrodding this very model of log splitter? Got mine down to 8 seconds full cycle, with pretty minimal work, and could push it down to 6 seconds with a few tank and cylinder bung changes.

Since the engine was probably 80% of the total project cost, I'd be using this as an excuse to do some upgrading!

The engine I chose (Intek 21R707) was total overkill, aiming to support a future upgrade to a 22 GPM pump. But it's pretty easy to get up to 16-18 GPM with the existing cylinder and tank, and a modest engine upgrade to 7 - 9 hp.

I wish you could link those threads you mentioned.. I'm currently getting ready to do a Predator 212cc swap on my 20+yrs old Huskee 22ton and my mind was going through all the possibilities.. there's a sale on right now at HF and the Predator 212 was only $109 (bought one today) I was probably gonna just keep the original 11gpm pump (I believe that's what came stock) with an eventual upgrade to a 13gpm but I'm pretty limited in my confidence in my skills as I've never done this before.
But they also had a Predator 224cc that was $40more and I got considering "could that engine spin a 16gpm pump?" Also, do you think that the 212cc could do 16gpm? I really don't wanna lose any splitting tonnage as there's been a couple of times I was unsure if the original setup would push through a big branched log but it always did. I don't quite understand the PSI ratings on the compressors and how they are achieved or adjusted.. are they a built-in design feature or are they adjustable because you mention in your last comment about 2800psi at 16gpm requiring 6.5hp theoretically but saying you'd need 3500psi to get the full 22 ton out of the 4" cylinder.. so is that just inherent in the pump or is that a adjustable level of pressure in said pumps? I've seen most pumps only state 3000psi as their pressure yet I've seen some by a company called Vevor that say 4000psi.
I just really wish for a fuller understanding of the subject.

 

[brenndatomu]

I wish you could link those threads you mentioned.. I'm currently getting ready to do a Predator 212cc swap on my 20+yrs old Huskee 22ton and my mind was going through all the possibilities.. there's a sale on right now at HF and the Predator 212 was only $109 (bought one today) I was probably gonna just keep the original 11gpm pump (I believe that's what came stock) with an eventual upgrade to a 13gpm but I'm pretty limited in my confidence in my skills as I've never done this before.
But they also had a Predator 224cc that was $40more and I got considering "could that engine spin a 16gpm pump?" Also, do you think that the 212cc could do 16gpm? I really don't wanna lose any splitting tonnage as there's been a couple of times I was unsure if the original setup would push through a big branched log but it always did. I don't quite understand the PSI ratings on the compressors and how they are achieved or adjusted.. are they a built-in design feature or are they adjustable because you mention in your last comment about 2800psi at 16gpm requiring 6.5hp theoretically but saying you'd need 3500psi to get the full 22 ton out of the 4" cylinder.. so is that just inherent in the pump or is that a adjustable level of pressure in said pumps? I've seen most pumps only state 3000psi as their pressure yet I've seen some by a company called Vevor that say 4000psi.
I just really wish for a fuller understanding of the subject.

Just a warning, log splitter builds/mods are a slippery slope/rabbit hole!
First of all, on the specs, they all lie. Most of those pumps will do 3000 PSI, very few will do 4, especially the cheaper ones!
Also, the tonnage rating on most splitters is complete pile of steaming BS! To get the tonnage they claim all the components would have to do way more than they are even capable of (including the hoses sometimes) in most cases, and its been this way forever.
Here is a good site to use to learn about hydraulics as related to log splitters, and to calculate actual numbers. https://logsplitterplans.com/calculators/hydraulic-cycle-calculator.htm
After heavily modding a Huskee 22ton last year, I can tell you that any splitter that makes an ACTUAL 22 tons, would split boulders...I am running a pressure gauge now and even when splitting nasty ole stringy/crotch/knots that the gauge very seldom goes over 1k (so ~6 tons) the gauge barely even comes off the zero mark to split the average log.
My old Champion splitter had a 13gpm pump with a 196cc engine and it pulled that without any trouble at all...my new splitter is powered by both a 8 hp Predator, then a quick swap makes it electric powered, by a "5hp" motor, which by actual amperage is more like 4 hp. (but electric motor hp is different than gas, due to much higher torque)
I went with a 16gpm pump and the electric motor will pull that pump up to 2500 psi (so ~15.5 tons) (which by coincidence, is same rating as my hoses) the 8 hp (301cc) engine doesn't even know its there, so I have exactly zero doubt that a 212cc Predator would pull the 16gpm pump. You mentioned that your splitter sometimes struggles on some pieces, but never stalls...that is just where it shifted into "low gear", which is exactly what 2 stage pumps like this are made to do...high speed/low power most of the time, low speed/high power as needed.
If you did need to adjust the 16gpm pump relief (max) pressure (for less hp requirement) that is easily/quickly accomplished by taking a plug off of the pump and turning a screw...this adjustment would control how much HP it actually takes to turn the pump at max pressure. (because these are positive displacement pumps)

 

[J.Noss]

Just a warning, log splitter builds/mods are a slippery slope/rabbit hole!
First of all, on the specs, they all lie. Most of those pumps will do 3000 PSI, very few will do 4, especially the cheaper ones!
Also, the tonnage rating on most splitters is complete pile of steaming BS! To get the tonnage they claim all the components would have to do way more than they are even capable of (including the hoses sometimes) in most cases, and its been this way forever.
Here is a good site to use to learn about hydraulics as related to log splitters, and to calculate actual numbers. https://logsplitterplans.com/calculators/hydraulic-cycle-calculator.htm
After heavily modding a Huskee 22ton last year, I can tell you that any splitter that makes an ACTUAL 22 tons, would split boulders...I am running a pressure gauge now and even when splitting nasty ole stringy/crotch/knots that the gauge very seldom goes over 1k (so ~6 tons) the gauge barely even comes off the zero mark to split the average log.
My old Champion splitter had a 13gpm pump with a 196cc engine and it pulled that without any trouble at all...my new splitter is powered by both a 8 hp Predator, then a quick swap makes it electric powered, by a "5hp" motor, which by actual amperage is more like 4 hp. (but electric motor hp is different than gas, due to much higher torque)
I went with a 16gpm pump and the electric motor will pull that pump up to 2500 psi (so ~15.5 tons) (which by coincidence, is same rating as my hoses) the 8 hp (301cc) engine doesn't even know its there, so I have exactly zero doubt that a 212cc Predator would pull the 16gpm pump. You mentioned that your splitter sometimes struggles on some pieces, but never stalls...that is just where it shifted into "low gear", which is exactly what 2 stage pumps like this are made to do...high speed/low power most of the time, low speed/high power as needed.
If you did need to adjust the 16gpm pump relief (max) pressure (for less hp requirement) that is easily/quickly accomplished by taking a plug off of the pump and turning a screw...this adjustment would control how much HP it actually takes to turn the pump at max pressure. (because these are positive displacement pumps)

That's great! I already have a passion for modded chainsaws, why not splitters too?
And do you have a decent company that you'd recommend for a 16gpm pump? Or are any of the $100-120 pumps available on Amazon or the like gonna cut it? And another thing I've heard: that you need to keep the pump supply line/tank level with or above the height of the pump. With a Huskee splitter and Horizontal shaft engine it's going to be near impossible without completely redesigning the whole layout to do so and I was kinda hoping that it wasn't as important as some people make it out to be.
Thanks already so much for the help you've given through your reply

 

[brenndatomu]

And do you have a decent company that you'd recommend for a 16gpm pump? Or are any of the $100-120 pumps available on Amazon or the like gonna cut it?

I bought mine from Rugged Made, but I'm not sure it's really that much different than the Amazon/eBay pumps...if you do order one of those at least get one from a reputable vendor with good feedback on both them, and the pump you buy.
Keep the pump as low as possible, but I've seen splitters with the pump above the oil level, seemed to work, but in doing that you are losing "margin for error" and most likely in the end, longevity.

 

[brenndatomu]

With a Huskee splitter and Horizontal shaft engine it's going to be near impossible without completely redesigning the whole layout

I moved everything to the other side, down low...

 

[Ashful]

I bought mine from Rugged Made, but I'm not sure it's really that much different than the Amazon/eBay pumps...

When I looked into it awhile back, it seemed pretty much all of these pumps are made by Wuxi Bucher, even the Rugged Made. Maybe buying a name brand gets you better warranty service, but not a different pump.

Are you only seeing 1ksi at stall? If so, that is strange. If you're reading pressure at any less than full stall, then it's probably irrelevant. Lower pressure while splitting is a reflection of what you're splitting and inter-stage bypass setting, not pump max capability.

By flow rate alone, the maximum pump that the Huskee 22-ton platform can support is 18.5 GPM. This is based on two primary restrictions, the bung in the tank and the ports on the cylinder. The cylinder can be upgraded, but the bung in the tank requires cutting and welding. That might be worth it, if there weren't a second limitation based on fluid temperature. I've found that even 18.5 GPM is getting me something like 150F temp rise on the fluid, which on any day above 50F is putting my ATF above 200F... too hot.

Based on this, my recommendation for that platform would be 16 GPM, which will allow you to split on all but the hottest days of the year. You'll need to upgrade the suction hose to 1", and there are thin-wall steel hose barbs that you can replace the OEM one with to match that at the tank bung, and you'll probably also want to upgrade that hard line (3/8" ID?) on the cylinder to a proper 1/2" hose. Figure on at least 270cc engine to drive a 16 gpm pump, or low-300cc's to drive 18.5 GPM.

 

[salecker]

I have a Sperco splitter that the pump is above the oil level and there hasn't been any issues.
No mods other than a freebie Honda engine that replaced the seized Briggs that was on it.