Have a roughly 30 year old 34 ton Huskee Log Splitter. Origional engine which was a 10hp B&S Insustrial/commercial vertical shaft blew about 12 years ago. Took to a repair place which switched it out with an old 11hp (not industrial) model that has always been unsatisfactory, it has been ok but is tired. I would like to find out what model the origional engine was so I can look for a proper newer model. If anybody has the same Huskee Log Splitter (model 21-53508) I would appreciate if you can give me some info regarding the origional engine that was on this model. Thanks in advance for your help.
Huskee Log Splitter Info
- Thread starter mahnoo51
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I'm no help with the OEM engine...but If you have some basic fabrication skills, I'd consider swapping to a horizontal shaft engine (I'm actually doing that on a Huskee 22ton now)...I think you'd have to buy a pump adapter, but those aren't expensive, and maybe change things around a bit with the hoses...but horizontal engines are cheaper to buy, and you'd have a much better selection...personally I'd put the 13 HP Predator (Honda clone) on it...they have a great reputation, and can often be bought on sale, or with coupon, sometimes both.
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
I'll give the alternative to brenndatomu's suggestion, and say just slap a vertical shaft Briggs Intek 21R707 in there. I found they can be bought with the same RPM, shaft length, shaft diameter, etc. as the OEM. I did have to drill different mounting holes, but that was it.
The Intek's are a higher quality engine than the B&S's that ship with most OEM equipment. I'm not a huge fan of their noise level, but I was not able to find a suitably-sized Honda or Subie that fit the chassis.
The Intek's are a higher quality engine than the B&S's that ship with most OEM equipment. I'm not a huge fan of their noise level, but I was not able to find a suitably-sized Honda or Subie that fit the chassis.
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
There are literally two dozen (or more?) configurations, with every combination of starting, choke, primer bulb, throttle... you name it. The version I bought has pull start AND electric start, which is incredibly handy. I didn't want to mount a battery on my splitter, so I just wired the starter to a solenoid and 50A forklift battery plug. I put the same plug on my tractor, and made a 10' cord with those plug ends. When it's bitchin' cold out, I just plug the splitter into my tractor and turn a key for cold starts. After it's warmed up, then I use the pull cord for restarting.
If you need help deciphering the various codes, I can probably help. First thing you'd want to do is get the RPM, shaft length, and shaft diameter off your existing machine. The guys at Jacks Small Engines are also a huge help, I'm pretty sure that's where I bought mine, as they were able to help me buy a different choke/throttle plate to make up a feature set that wasn't available off-the-shelf. I wanted local throttle and choke (no remote cabled stuff, I wanted it mounted right on the engine), but with the electric start that is normally only available with remote throttle control.
If you need help deciphering the various codes, I can probably help. First thing you'd want to do is get the RPM, shaft length, and shaft diameter off your existing machine. The guys at Jacks Small Engines are also a huge help, I'm pretty sure that's where I bought mine, as they were able to help me buy a different choke/throttle plate to make up a feature set that wasn't available off-the-shelf. I wanted local throttle and choke (no remote cabled stuff, I wanted it mounted right on the engine), but with the electric start that is normally only available with remote throttle control.
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