Replacement for Sierra T1000 problems

[joeggles]

Hello,
I would appreciate some help with finding a new stove that fits into where our current stove (Sierra T1000) sits. Here is the situation:

Location: Outside of Annapolis, MD
Use: Major heat source of heat for the house during the winter when our heat pump can't do it alone
House: 2 story, approximately 2000 sq ft (colonial, built 1985) with a draw-thru duct to bring stove heat upstairs.
Room: 1st floor in a large dining room / kitchen / play room that covers the entire rear of the house (8' ceilings)
Hearth: Brick, 21" D, 67"W, picture below
Flue: 6" and the center is located a 20 1/4" above the hearth

I am starting the search for a more efficient stove and I am immediately running into problems.

I know I have to have a side loader because of the local building code (hearth depth). So, with that criteria locked and my 21" hearth depth and flue location, I can't seem to find a new stove that won't require me to either make my hearth larger or move my flue location.

My local store suggested my only option is the jotul F118, which isn't the look my wife and I like.

If I do have to make a physical change to my hearth, I figure a new flue is easier than adding on to the front of my hearth?

Thanks for your time.

joeggles

 

[begreen]

Rear-exit steel stoves are rare. I'd consider a Jotul F500 for a side-loader. A Woodstock Fireview might work there too. The hearth can and should be extended. The easiest way is to do this at floor level. It's not exactly kosher as it stands now, so I'd plan on this regardless of stove choice. A hot fire in a stove can radiate a lot of heat from the front. Also, the thimble location can be raised to allow the installation of a top-vent stove.

 

[Jimbob]

The Newmac NC 100E is a side loading, rear exit stove that is EPA approved.

http://homehardware.ca/Products/index/show/product/I5530913/name/

Go here and click on EPAClassic series:
http://www.newmacfurnaces.com/showroom/index.html

I'm not sure how high the centre of the flue exit is.

 

[joeggles]

A status update.

After much research (most of which done here) and some asking around, we have decided to remove the brick hearth and build a pad (67" by 48"). So, that pretty much opens up our stove selection.

We are still interested in rear vent (my math shows the center of the current opening at ~30"), side/front load, and my wife likes legs vice a pedestal. We have been thinking about the Quad Cumberland Gap, but more looking around here about that stove has made me question that idea (non-square firebox and firebrick damage tolerance).

Sometimes I think I am going to go crazy trying to find the stove that fits just right.

 

[Later]

Take a look at the Blaze King Ultra. There is an impressive video here:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/37534/

 

[joeggles]

So, the Blaze King...looks like a top vent to me. Sorry, but that won't fly with my wife.

In the mean time does anyone have suggestions for hearth pad tile? Wife likes the slate "look". Any concerns there wrt brittleness/durability?

 

[begreen]

Cheap slate can be flakey. Avoid the $1 a tile stuff and get it from a good supplier. You might also show her bluestone tile. Or you could extend the hearth at floor level with half-bricks.

 

[joeggles]

So, Mrs. Joeggles and I have finally decided upon all the things having to do with the "hearth project". The tiles are here, we picked up the sheet of Micore 300 the other weekend and we had family in town this weekend to help with the little joeggles....so to work we went...

First, smash up the old hearth....lots of noise and lots of dust...

 

[joeggles]

Then cut into our nice wood floors to make room for the new hearth...

And thanks to our able assistant (read he did all the hard stuff) Phillipe, we figured out the layout of the tiles that pleased Mrs. Joeggles the most

 

[joeggles]

Of course we had a 1/2" sheet of micore 300 on the bottom, then a 3/8" sheet of durock..then tiles...here it is before the grout

and after some area cleanup

 

[joeggles]

And the final product.....trim and all...

Something missing you say? Yeah, the stove. We are thinking either the Jotul 500 or 600. It appears you can't really go wrong with either....

Anyone have a price hack for either stove?

 

[BrotherBart]

I can only tell you the list prices. The F400 is $1961 in matte black, the F500 is $2,249 and the F600 $2,564. And then you would have the 30% tax credit. Around $350 for the blue/black enamel finish.

 

[Todd]

http://www.buckstove.com/wood/model261.html

This might work for ya.This is the only EPA steel plate stove with a rear vent I have seen.

 

[BrotherBart]

http://www.buckstove.com/wood/model261.html

This might work for ya.This is the only EPA steel plate stove with a rear vent I have seen.

Yeah and at around $1,800 for a N/S loader with included blower and side heat shields. And at 500 pounds the sucker must be built like a tank.

 

[joeggles]

http://www.buckstove.com/wood/model261.html

This might work for ya.This is the only EPA steel plate stove with a rear vent I have seen.

Yeah and at around $1,800 for a N/S loader with included blower and side heat shields. And at 500 pounds the sucker must be built like a tank.

That is quite the plate steel tank. We have obviously decided to go the path of remodeling our entire hearth, so we aren't tied to the limited clearance to our flue that we previously had. I think with doing this mod, we aren't tied to the idea of a plate steel stove anymore either.

But, the rear vent is still required as we aren't going to move the flue up the wall.


Thanks for the retail prices for the Jotul 400 and 500....do you have the retail for the 600 too?

 

[BrotherBart]

Yeah right after I posted that the cat quit bugging me to go for a walk and I noticed I hadn't included the 600. I edited and put it in there.

I think I have the only cat that comes and finds ya and wants to go walking in the woods. Now if that sucker could just use a chainsaw...

 

[stoveguy2esw]

while you are in the project mode i noticed in the last picture on your origional post the thimble tile is cracked, might want to address that while you are in transition

 

[joeggles]

while you are in the project mode i noticed in the last picture on your origional post the thimble tile is cracked, might want to address that while you are in transition

Now that is a good catch. I haven't thought about that detail in a while. Last I remember talking to the guy who will eventually line the chimney and install the stove...as long as we use a single wall metal thimble...the cracked thimble tile isn't going to be a problem.

Is that not true?

There are two other details that Mrs. Joeggles brought up today that I (we) could use some help on.

1) Tips/tricks to remove the old mortar from the face of the brick at the bottom of the hearth...you can kinda see it in the above pictures
2) Recommended kid gates to install around the entire hearth pad.

 

[joeggles]

Yeah right after I posted that the cat quit bugging me to go for a walk and I noticed I hadn't included the 600. I edited and put it in there.

I think I have the only cat that comes and finds ya and wants to go walking in the woods. Now if that sucker could just use a chainsaw...

So, I got my first quote for a 600 from a local shop....$2,709.48...ummm, seems like a bit more than your retail price...

Now, I have two Joeggles Juniors. 2.5 years and 0.4 years...far some chainsaw operating age...but I do have hope.

 

[joeggles]

Here is our new F600 installed. Front view and side view.

I think our only problem with the installation is how far it is sitting away from the wall. The stove came up about an inch lower than the opening in the wall, therefore the installers had to set the stove so far away so as to be able to slope the thimble up to make it through the wall. They also removed the cracked ceramic thimble that you can see from the original post. That bought us a little more room, but as you can see the stove is still sitting much further than required from the non-combustible wall.

Items remaining:
1) Kiddie gate to go around the whole hearth
2) Remove the old mortar from the bottom of the wall
3) Find an aesthetically pleasing way to raise the stove so as to be able to move it closer to the wall
4) Get a larger thimble ring so you can't see the insulation they put in the wall around the thimble where the ceramic thimble used to be.

Comments and suggestions are always welcomed.

 

[BrotherBart]

Looking great. That bad boy is gonna amaze you.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

http://www.buckstove.com/wood/model261.html

This might work for ya.This is the only EPA steel plate stove with a rear vent I have seen.

Yeah and at around $1,800 for a N/S loader with included blower and side heat shields. And at 500 pounds the sucker must be built like a tank.

all buck woodstoves are made of very thick sheet, good bare basic stoves, i used to sell the 26, 51,91(if memory serves me..)

 

[fossil]

...3) Find an aesthetically pleasing way to raise the stove so as to be able to move it closer to the wall...

It's perfectly doable to lay tile on top of tile. You could remove the trim, lay a sheet of Durock on top of the existing tile (or two if you need them), then lay new tile on top and finish with a newly-fitted trim. In this way, you could raise the stove to the correct height for decreasing the horizontal run of connector pipe into the thimble. Looks great the way it is, from my vantage point, though, and a little uphill slope on that piece of pipe is a good thing. Rick

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

i cant really think of anyway to get that stove higher and not look funny, but i would think you could replace that strait length of connector pipe with one adjustable elbow and a shorter piece of connector pipe. The adjustable elbows have 4 joints that allow you to make slight offsets.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

..little uphill slope on that piece of pipe is a good thing. Rick

1/4" rise per foot of horizontal is required for any wood appliance, or gas for that matter