Replacing refractory assembly and catalyst - vt casting defiant 1945

[Danimal Chang]

Hello. Just removed and replaced the refractory assembly and catalyst and fire brick on my model 1945 defiant (manufactured 2008). I took pictures and learned a lot, posting my experience to help someone in need.



Bricks cracked. There's a section in the manual about removing the throat (above bricks) to access the catalyst inside. The throat is lifted out. I knew both refractory and catalyst needed replaced. There's a metal thing on top of the bricks an wedges on either side that holds them tight against fireback. I tapped the wedges up and removed them, and the bricks



This is the lower fireback. You can tilt this forward and remove it.



Now you see refractory assembly.



After removing the access panel across the top of the refractory assembly, There's the catalyst (the red thing). You can pull that out.



This catalyst is toast!



The refractory, busted open. The little black thing at the bottom is the secondary temp probe. Important, you should open the panel on back of stove, loosen the thing that holds the probe and push it out the back of the stove before you insert the new refractory assembly. (Then you will push it back into the new refractory)



Old refractory assembly has been removed (note little secondary probe at the bottom middle)



View from back, note the access panel is removed and secondary probe pushed out the back (this allows you to put the new refractory in without damaging it)



New refractory ready to install

 

[Danimal Chang]

Okay now the trickiest part. The damper assembly needs to be moved a little to get the refractory assembly in. There are 4 11m / 7/16" bolts on the back of the stove. Removing these allows you to move the damper assembly forward a little and slip the refractory in (also remove the lower fireback and andirons and grill at the bottom to give you more room)



Now it is in there. Make sure it it all the way back with no debris blocking it.Then put the bolts back in the back of stove to move the damper assembly back



View of refractory, from top



Then I inserted the shiny new catalyst



Put in the access panel (snug)



Put the lower fireback back in (there are two bumps on the bottom, the bottom of the fire back should go behind them, then tilt fireback up (as shown above)



Then put new bricks, metal clip, and wedges in.



Then put the baffle back in, and finishing touches!



Hot! Hot! Hot!

 

[begreen]

Thanks for taking the time to put this together. This is very helpful info.

 

[Danimal Chang]

No problem. Glad to put this out there for any one who is not sure about it. Here are some extra points I forgot to make:

You may not need to replace the refractory assembly. I did, because I had damaged the top of the assembly. The manual tells you how to access and inspect the catalyst without replacing the refractory. Here is a link to the manual for model 1945: (broken link removed to http://www.fergusonfireplace.com/1945.pdf) (see especially pages 30-32, and the exploded image on page 36). The problem is the refractory assembly is very fragile and brittle and easily damaged. Do not damage or break open the refractory if you don't have to (the image above shows it opened just to show the location of the secondary temp probe and to describe that). Be very careful with the refractory assembly and follow the directions in your manual. Do not force it into its spot. If you are just trying to access the catalyst you should be able to do that without ruining your expensive refractory assembly.

I knew that I had a damaged refractory and needed to replace that too. My problem was that the user manual does not explain how to replace the refractory assembly, so when I decided to do this, I had to rely on the exploded diagram in the manual, the information on pages 30-32, my local VT castings dealer, and posts on this forum.

I thought that adding description of my experience would help the next guy who decides to do this.

So here are some points I missed above:

• The catalytic converter that I used was a new Condar catalyst purchased from my local Vermont Castings dealer, I also got the refractory assembly there as well. They both cost about $200+, but worth the investment, I think
• The bricks I got were Rutland firebricks (about $5-6 each) and looked like a different color but were the same size as the original firebrick.
• I forgot to reiterate that after putting the refractory assembly in place, I pushed the secondary air probe into it from the back of the stove, and secured the secondary air probe assembly by screwing it back to the rear of the stove, and put the access panel back on.
• I removed the griddle, andirons, grate, flue collar, and stove pipe for this job. I also removed a side panel inside the stove, but I'm not sure I had to. The panel had the same size bolts as the ones that held the damper assembly.
• I had a shop vac handy and vacuumed dust, debris and ash as I progressed through each step.
• Having some gasket cement handy and some gaskets is a good idea as I found a loose gasket or two while working on this.
• I made multiple trips to my local Vermont Castings dealer. They helped me think through pushing back the secondary air probe and moving the damper assembly forward to get the refractory into place. And they helped me get the right parts. They did not know to remove the bolts on the back to move the damper assembly, so I had to figure that out on my own.

Now that I am finished and burning again, I can barely remember the last time I had such a good catalytic burn. The whole firebox glows orange, I can see the catalytic element glowing behind the baffle, and a green/blue flame in front of the firebricks. Now when I close the damper, I hear the 'clicking' noises of the flue adjusting as the temperature changes for catalytic burn. I hear the 'whir' sound of the catalytic burn. Feels great, looks great. The way it ought to be.

I hope this helps somebody. Wish you all warmth this winter.

 

[Otiscat]

No problem. Glad to put this out there for any one who is not sure about it. Here are some extra points I forgot to make:

You may not need to replace the refractory assembly. I did, because I had damaged the top of the assembly. The manual tells you how to access and inspect the catalyst without replacing the refractory. Here is a link to the manual for model 1945: (broken link removed to http://www.fergusonfireplace.com/1945.pdf) (see especially pages 30-32, and the exploded image on page 36). The problem is the refractory assembly is very fragile and brittle and easily damaged. Do not damage or break open the refractory if you don't have to (the image above shows it opened just to show the location of the secondary temp probe and to describe that). Be very careful with the refractory assembly and follow the directions in your manual. Do not force it into its spot. If you are just trying to access the catalyst you should be able to do that without ruining your expensive refractory assembly.

I knew that I had a damaged refractory and needed to replace that too. My problem was that the user manual does not explain how to replace the refractory assembly, so when I decided to do this, I had to rely on the exploded diagram in the manual, the information on pages 30-32, my local VT castings dealer, and posts on this forum.

I thought that adding description of my experience would help the next guy who decides to do this.

So here are some points I missed above:

• The catalytic converter that I used was a new Condar catalyst purchased from my local Vermont Castings dealer, I also got the refractory assembly there as well. They both cost about $200+, but worth the investment, I think
• The bricks I got were Rutland firebricks (about $5-6 each) and looked like a different color but were the same size as the original firebrick.
• I forgot to reiterate that after putting the refractory assembly in place, I pushed the secondary air probe into it from the back of the stove, and secured the secondary air probe assembly by screwing it back to the rear of the stove, and put the access panel back on.
• I removed the griddle, andirons, grate, flue collar, and stove pipe for this job. I also removed a side panel inside the stove, but I'm not sure I had to. The panel had the same size bolts as the ones that held the damper assembly.
• I had a shop vac handy and vacuumed dust, debris and ash as I progressed through each step.
• Having some gasket cement handy and some gaskets is a good idea as I found a loose gasket or two while working on this.
• I made multiple trips to my local Vermont Castings dealer. They helped me think through pushing back the secondary air probe and moving the damper assembly forward to get the refractory into place. And they helped me get the right parts. They did not know to remove the bolts on the back to move the damper assembly, so I had to figure that out on my own.

Now that I am finished and burning again, I can barely remember the last time I had such a good catalytic burn. The whole firebox glows orange, I can see the catalytic element glowing behind the baffle, and a green/blue flame in front of the firebricks. Now when I close the damper, I hear the 'clicking' noises of the flue adjusting as the temperature changes for catalytic burn. I hear the 'whir' sound of the catalytic burn. Feels great, looks great. The way it ought to be.

I hope this helps somebody. Wish you all warmth this winter.

I just want to say Thank you This is so helpful!! I had a bad chimney sweep which resulted in a chimney fire with our first fire after he cleaned and supposedly inspected the stove. Turns out he never cleaned or inspected the cat. The fire Marshall met him back here and made him disassemble right in front of him and we all saw that he didn't clean or inspect that part at all. It was FULL! So, now they noticed it was shot. The chimney sweep tried to convince the Marshall that the fire started because of a bad cat but I was here and saw that the fire was in the chimney itself and of course if it was clean in the first place, there would have been nothing to catch on fire that day. Now, they wont let me have another fire in it until I replace cat and when they disassembled it, the refractory housing crumbled on one top end. I was hoping to glue it but when I picked up the piece myself it literally crumbled into dust in my hand so here we go!$$$$ I also realized during this whole thing that I was never running the stove properly. I wasn't letting it come up to temp before I closed it. I really had no clue how those worked. I was using old school methodology where, you put wood in and when it gets going, you close damper. I cant wait (well I can wait for the cost) to be able to actually use the stove as it was meant to be used. I really appreciate the help on this as I wont be able to afford to hire someone to come in and fix it. Especially after I buy the parts. I am hoping I don't also have to replace that probe. Another 50$ I also had the chimney sweep tell me it was ok to have a loose gasket in glass door which I disagreed with because then it cant work properly and when I spoke with someone at Vermont Castings, they confirmed that it needs to be airtight. The guy just didn't want to fix it. I am lucky my 1780 historic house didn't burn but I am pretty mad at this guy. He is not taking any responsibility for his mistakes. I could have replaced this cat back when he cleaned stove and I would have a fire right now during the 6 degree weather, but instead we are cranking oil. Thanks again, its really generous of you to post this for others. It will be a hassle to fix, but much less so now thanks to you!!