Resolute Acclaim won't get hot

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

virvis

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 27, 2007
37
central PA
I acquire a used, 1989 Resolute Acclaim stove and I'm having some problems with it. I believe it needs taken apart and cleaned but wanted to get some input from people that know these stoves before I dive in and disassemble it.

The stove is used and the upper fireback is warped. This prevents the damper from sealing tightly so I've been burning the stove with the damper open. I've ordered a new fireback and damper and I'm waiting for that to arrive. That's a problem but my main issue is the stove just doesn't seem to burn correctly. I need to have the front door open and leave it open to get a fire to burn hot enough that it will stay burning when I close the front door. I have the air flow control the whole way to the right and that will work enough to keep the fire going but the stove won't go above 400 degrees on the griddle. I'm thinking the main airflow passages are blocked. Any thoughts?

Also, to take this thing apart, it looks like I need to remove a bolt that holds the upper firegack in and remove 2 steel wedges (on the R and L if looking into the stove through the front door) that will give me access to the rear of the stove for cleaning. Please let me know if I'm on the right track.

thanks for any info.

Jim
 
OK, do you want the bad news or the worse news??

Chances are that your stove needs a 100% rebuild to even function at all, not just a few parts replaced. Early Acclaims were updated, often with free or discounted parts from VC, WAY BACK WHEN. There have been numerous revisions since then.

You will never get any heat out of that stove using it in the updraft mode.

Your chimney or hookup is probably bad, since you don't appear to have sufficient draft.

Not trying to be harsh, but what you are doing is akin to buying a car with a blown head gasket and flat tires and then wondering why it will not attain freeway speeds. This thing needs to be junked or completely rebuilt...that is, if the parts are still available.
 
Craig,

Can you vie me an idea of what is involved with a compete rebuild?

Also regarding the chimney. It's new and I think it's working properly. Do you think it's possible that the main air inlet is somehow blocked? I can get a fire going pretty good if I leave the door open but as soon as I close it, it seems like the fire is starving for air.

thanks for your input.
 
Suspect it will cost more to rebuild than find another good stove....
 
You can actually feel the air inlet with your fingers underneath as you move that lever side to side. I have never heard of that being clogged, although I'm certain it is possible. More likely the chimney is not pulling strong enough. Tell us about your exactly chimney setup and type....

A complete rebuild means tearing the stove down to almost nothing, buying all the newer inside parts (they do not sell the old parts) and rebuilding with furnace cement. Really rough guess is that it will cost $500-600 in parts and a number of hours, but I would be wrong ($200 one way or the other).
 
Does VC finally have the replacement parts for this stove down to a more or less permanent repair, or will they be facing this again in 3-5 years.
 
Chimney was just constructed. It's a double chimney with 8" square flues, 1 side for the wood stove, the other is not being used yet. It's on the exterior wall of the house (the one that's not being used was built just in case we ever put an addition on that side of the house and want a small stove out there)

Chimney is approx. 26', and is about 4.5' above the eve of the roof. It's approx. 10 feet from the peak of the roof. Also, this stove came with a damper in the stove pipe. From the post I've read, I probably should open that up and keep it that way.

I'm a little confused about how the air actually gets to the fire with the Acclaim. Does it come in directly under the ash compartment and if it does, I'm not sure how the flow actually gets it up to the fire. I thougt, from reading other posts, that the air was directed to the back combustion chamber somehow.
 
Well, I think it is as good as it gets now......does not mean future parts replacement will not be needed (as in most cast stoves), but should not require a total tear down. They replaced a lot of cast parts with refractory - the sides, as I remember. Also changed the inner back. Firebox (I think) got a bit smaller, but more durable.
 
Craig,

do you know off the top of your head what other mods were for the stove. The inside of mine has a ceramic type lining on the 2 side walls. Also when I bought it, the guy mentioned that he replaced several inside including the lower fireback. I'm not sure how to tell if this stove has had the kit installed.

jim
 
OK, if it has ceramic side walls it has been rebuilt once - since 1989 models had cast walls. That helps you a little, as you only need now to buy the entire back parts - upper and lower fp and perhaps those inserts if they are still using them or the replacements (I don't keep up with details, but your dealer will know what the right kit is based on your ceramic sides) . If the ceramic after-burner is still in decent shape (in the back), you might be able to get away with only $200 or so in parts.

What threw me off was your date of 1989. Any Acclaim from that era would need complete rebuild (yours already has been)..
 
Air comes in underneath the stove front, then runs up two manifolds you will see against the front of the stove on either side of the door (inside corners) and then down across the glass.

See:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Downdraft_Stove_Operation/

that is an acclaim cutaway at the bottom of that article.

Secondary air comes in through those little holes you see at the rear bottom.

Chimney sounds OK, but how many elbows? Is the pipe tightly furnace cemented together? Is it very tight in the wall where it goes through the crock? Is the chimney cleanout door (if exists) tightly sealed? You don't have to answer all this here, just check it!
 
Thanks for all the information. I've torn the stove apart and I'm waiting for the upper fireback and damper to arrive. Once that's installed and everything is put back together, I'll let you know how it's burning.

thanks again.

Jim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.