Reversomatic R-35

Mark1000 Posted By Mark1000, Jan 10, 2019 at 2:52 PM

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  1. Mark1000

    Mark1000
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    Jan 10, 2019
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    first of all this is my first post on this site I appreciate anyone who’s willing to help me with my stove

    I have a 1200sq foot house single level house with a reversomatic r-35 probably the last stove I would choose but it came with the house we bought in 2015 in beaverton Ontario. My question is this this stove is big rated for 3000 sq ft overkill I’d say for the house but it does give us 10+ hrs of heat which is probably the only thing I do like about it . The info I’m looking for is weather this is normal for the way this particular stove should operate or burn as the manufacturer has told me it is I don’t believe them but here we go. If I open the heat control slightly open I can wrap my temperature gauge all the way around crazy hot you can smell the heat coming off it at night you can see a orange glow coming out the chimney . I’ve tried things I can damper it down it helps but I’m not convinced that’s write or should be used. I’ve replaced the door seal too now that’s another question I’m sertin that i should not be able to see the glow of the flame between the gasget and the door in my opinion the doors don’t fit or mate up evenly there’s no adjustment or anything! . I’m burning mostly ash some birch and black cherry seasoned for one year under 20% moisture content according to a mosisture meter . According to reverso cast iron doors can’t warp and it’s normal that you would be able to get that carzy heat out of it with the heat control open and that the doors don’t have to seal tightly on these stoves that is the nature of this beast .

    I guess bottom line is to me this sounds like bs but maybe it is the nature of the beast in my opinion this stove is junk . But basically what are you fine folks opinion?
     
  2. begreen

    begreen
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    Nov 18, 2005
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    I find no product listing from Reversomatic for this stove. How old is it? Can you provide some pictures?
     
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  3. Mark1000

    Mark1000
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    Jan 10, 2019
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    I’d also like to add I’ve checked the baffle plate it looks straight no warps in good shape my 6” chimney height is 11’ from the base of the stove to the top of the chimney straight no elbows . Also I’ve had it get so hot the bi metal coil that controls the temereature has spun right around and opened the temperature flap back up.
     
  4. Mark1000

    Mark1000
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    Jan 10, 2019
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    So just took out my infarad thermometer according to the top of the stove and the chimney there roughly 350f yet the thermometer reds nearly 1000f so I’m leaning towards a bad thermometer in The chimney has anyone had a bad thermometer do the go bad . If this is the problem if real stupid for over looking it
     
  5. fbelec

    fbelec
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    Nov 23, 2005
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    according to the web site you have there as a short cut to the manual that stove is way over kill. time for a new stove. running it at 1000 degrees it's only a matter of time before a major breakdown. warping. if you can see the flame with the door closed that is a uncontrolled fire in there. i would not run that if i were you.
     
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  6. Mark1000

    Mark1000
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    Jan 10, 2019
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    It looks like it’s my gauge the face turns so somewhere along the lines it must have got turned on me I’m going to get a new gauge and try that . Yes the stove is way over kill I would like to get something smaller I just like that if I shut it down with good hard wood I can get about a 10hr burn out of it . I think a pacific energy vista would be appropriate size but only has a 6hr max burn
     
  7. begreen

    begreen
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    The mid-sized PE Super 27 would be a better size and it has a good long burn time.
     
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  8. fbelec

    fbelec
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    Nov 23, 2005
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    once you get your new thermometer you don't want to be running it at 450 that's to low for a chimney and might get build up in it. if your running 500 or more for a 10 hour burn that's great. the bad thing about a stove to large is the low burn so it doesn't drive you out of the house.
     
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  9. ShawnLiNY

    ShawnLiNY
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    Dec 13, 2018
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    Have you tested the gaskets after changing ? By using the dollar bill test ? As far as cast iron doors not warping ( it’s not common but cast iron warps all the time ) and if you are measuring temps of 1000* I’m sure it’s been higher, when stove cools enough open doors wide and place a level against the mating edge top and bottom and vertical ( not the gasket ) and confirm doors are warped or still true , if they check out check the stove face the same way , you may need a larger gasket . You can also test the glass gasket and door gasket when stove is operating by building a good fire closing down all intake air and use a bbq lighter around the perimeter of glass and doors the flame will get sucked in anywhere gasket is not suitable , can you post a pic of the glowing between gasket if it hasn’t been fixed already , as a last resort you might try installing a manual pipe damper and this will help you restrict overall airflow through stove
     

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