Sandblasting Rust From Older Harman accentra Insert

[Worble7]

Just wondering if anyone on here has experience sandblasting rust off there stove? I have been sandblasting all the panels and wanted to hit some of the rust on the stove. Thanks Jeff

 

[GeHmTS]

Can you share before/after pics of the panels you did already? Sound's interesting.

 

[Worble7]

Here's one panel I did no before and after but next to one and undone panel. I will post a before and after on the next 3 panels I have left. and a pic of a rusty panel that's the worst of them all. It was too windy today to sandblast or I would be done with the panels. You think the chimney was leaking duh!! When I'm done they will look great. Thanks Jeff

 

[Ssyko]

I bead blast mine, only thing to watch out for is the lighter gauge sleel can warp from concentrated blasting with sand. So be careful and keep the nozzle a good distance away. If you see the sand sparking back off. As for paint i have used stove Brita but the last couple I found rustoleum grill paint works as good or better, it's good for 1200.I paint for a living so I have spray guns. It can be had in spray cans also

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/high-heat-ultra/

 

[Worble7]

Ssyko,
Thanks good to know never know that I was going to pull the fans and blast them maybe not now. Think I'm going with stain Black Stove Bright. Jeff

 

[bogieb]

Hey @Don2222 - you had any experience doing this?

 

[Don2222]

Hello
Yes, I have blasted fire boxes using black diamond for media (basically coal slag) works good just have to do it outside so not to make a mess. I am thinking of building a blasting both to recover the media so it would be better on the long run
I use a Harbor Frieght media blaster hooked to a big DeWalt compressor.

For paint In the firebox I always use Ultra High Temp 2,000 Deg VHT header paint at the auto parts store and the only paint that will match the outside is forest paints - Stove Bright Satin Black color good for 1400 degrees F

 

[Worble7]

Hello bogieb and Don2222,
That's the same blasting gun I have. I can't get the mounting shell and the stove separated due to rust any Ideas? Thanks Jeff

 

[Don2222]

Hello bogieb and Don2222,
That's the same blasting gun I have. I can't get the mounting shell and the stove separated due to rust any Ideas? Thanks Jeff

There are clips that hold the stove into the frame on each side in the front. Did you unclip them?

 

[Worble7]

There are clips that hold the stove into the frame on each side in the front. Did you unclip them?

Yes it's just rusted really good might need a lot of oil? whats under there rollers? Or does it just slide on a rail? Thanks Jeff

 

[wally1234]

I was thinking about make a post but it fits in here.

1. Why/how does the stove start collecting rust? I have a harman p52i insert and noticed few rust spots forming (not alot but its creeping up).
2. How do you stop the rust? Do I spray WD40 on on my stove in the summer time?

 

[Worble7]

Not sure but the rust on my stove was caused by the owner having a leak in flashing at stove cap. So I hope tomorrow I can sandblast the outer frame weather permitted but here's what it looks like now I will post a pics after I blast it. Jeff

 

[Ssyko]

I was thinking about make a post but it fits in here.

1. Why/how does the stove start collecting rust? I have a harman p52i insert and noticed few rust spots forming (not alot but its creeping up).
2. How do you stop the rust? Do I spray WD40 on on my stove in the summer time?

rust starts when you shut them down for the season. spring, Summer have more humidity in the air and the stove is not in use and mostly forgotten till heating season starts again. I always shut the stove down clean the hell out of it and then i use my test cord and run the exhaust fan while spray fogging oil inside the fire box. shut door and on with the honey do or else list. I usually take the stove out in the shop when they start looking bad and tear apart and refurbish including Paint.

 

[Montecarlossfan]

rust starts when you shut them down for the season. spring, Summer have more humidity in the air and the stove is not in use and mostly forgotten till heating season starts again. I always shut the stove down clean the hell out of it and then i use my test cord and run the exhaust fan while spray fogging oil inside the fire box. shut door and on with the honey do or else list. I usually take the stove out in the shop when they start looking bad and tear apart and refurbish including Paint.

Just for motivation...I purchased a 52i for a steal last October,sat in the guy’s garage all summer and rusted quite a bit as you can see..but finished product ...looks amazing and heats just as well

Stove bright satin black..on the frame I used rustoleum bbq paint which has a rust preventative in it

 

[Mt Bob]

OK,for Eeps24,convection,air movement.Does not matter if it is a FS stove or an insert.Temperature changes move air,air has different moisture content,at different times.Stove inserts are generally used in warmer areas(because the heat output is lower,not of concern),and most chimneys are on the outside wall,hence more cold air against the chimney,so the heat/cooling changes promote moisture forming on close items.Not much of a problem,out west,here,but east and left coast,big problem.In the warm months,unhook your stove,clean it,leave it unhooked,block off the outside air(flue and OAK). Spray/wipe the metal,as you see fit.Just isolating your stove from the constant up and down temperature changes is good.Does not help me,I run my stove almost every month of the year.

 

[Mt Bob]

For Worble-The old Accentra insert is not a heat monster.The 52i is.However,there are thousands of them out there,still up and running.I thought you would give up on your project,after you found the rust,bad control board,and bad motor.So,food for thought,the slide rails kit is still available,is over 300 dollars,but maybe you can salvage yours.From your pictures,as rusty as the outer housing/slide in cage is,I would call a dealer,and see if it is still avalible,the cost difference may make it worth your time and energy.Also,if your project goes through,there is a Harman air bypass kit,mostly for the gummy stove syndrome,you will want to install the kit before you use the stove.Best of luck,Bob.

 

[Worble7]

For Worble-The old Accentra insert is not a heat monster.The 52i is.However,there are thousands of them out there,still up and running.I thought you would give up on your project,after you found the rust,bad control board,and bad motor.So,food for thought,the slide rails kit is still available,is over 300 dollars,but maybe you can salvage yours.From your pictures,as rusty as the outer housing/slide in cage is,I would call a dealer,and see if it is still avalible,the cost difference may make it worth your time and energy.Also,if your project goes through,there is a Harman air bypass kit,mostly for the gummy stove syndrome,you will want to install the kit before you use the stove.Best of luck,Bob.

Thanks Bob I never give up on stuff!! I will sandblast the slide rail kit (should I paint the slide rail kit after blasting?) Then get the stove all back together and up and running. I will post pics as i go along. Also what the difference between the I52 and the Accenrtra. For a top of the line stove they seam to have a lot of problems lol . Thanks Jeff

 

[Mt Bob]

I would paint everything.The 52i is a much more powerful heater.Yours is older design.The air kit was put on most Harmans,then they redesigned the feeder unit.The air kit really makes the stove burn cleaner.

 

[GeHmTS]

I was thinking about make a post but it fits in here.

1. Why/how does the stove start collecting rust? I have a harman p52i insert and noticed few rust spots forming (not alot but its creeping up).
2. How do you stop the rust? Do I spray WD40 on on my stove in the summer time?

Rust is mainly caused by condensation of invisible water layer on the metal surface. This condensation may be due to a difference in temperature from a hot to a cold surface, particularly when the cold surface drops below the dew point. For example, the rust you see on car exhaust is an example of this effect. There are corrosion resistance oils on the market which are hydrophobic that do work. Paintings the metal is another solutions.

 

[Worble7]

Just for motivation...I purchased a 52i for a steal last October,sat in the guy’s garage all summer and rusted quite a bit as you can see..but finished product ...looks amazing and heats just as well

Stove bright satin black..on the frame I used rustoleum bbq paint which has a rust preventative in it

Montecarlossfan that paint job looks great I will go with satin black by stove bright also . Thanks Jeff

Small update sandblasted the rusty service rail frame today small shity compresser makes the job slow and harbor freight sandblaster but I have more time then I do money so. I had to stop due to it starting to rain. Some pics of the progress. Jeff

 

[Mt Bob]

I am impressed,the rust is not that thick,but the steel is.Remember,when blasting,sand,glass or shells,scrub well with water and scotch brite pad,primer,and paint.

 

[Worble7]

I am impressed,the rust is not that thick,but the steel is.Remember,when blasting,sand,glass or shells,scrub well with water and scotch brite pad,primer,and paint.

Bob,
You really want me to paint it after all that hard work? J/K lol So I live in the bay area of calif we really dont get alot of cold weather. Also my house is 1424 Sq feet. I think the stove will heat it just fine
Hey bob Do you have any really good pics of the Harman air bypass kit?? Thanks Jeff

 

[Mt Bob]

Bob,
You really want me to paint it after all that hard work? J/K lol So I live in the bay area of calif we really dont get alot of cold weather. Also my house is 1424 Sq feet. I think the stove will heat it just fine
Hey bob Do you have any really good pics of the Harman air bypass kit?? Thanks Jeff

LOL.All steel,unrusted,that looks like steel to you,was coated from the factory.Usually a light coating of galvanized.In your area,after blasting,will rust/corrode very fast.Primer and paint are a must.If you are rich,have everything powder coated,but,the cost of that has come way down over the years.As far as the instructions on the air kit,I may have them downstairs in my parts box,or,my Harman Technician friend can send them to me.Very simple,works well.Not gonna go downstairs tonight,so will be later.

 

[Ssyko]

Looking Good cant wait to see it finished

 

[Worble7]

LOL.All steel,unrusted,that looks like steel to you,was coated from the factory.Usually a light coating of galvanized.In your area,after blasting,will rust/corrode very fast.Primer and paint are a must.If you are rich,have everything powder coated,but,the cost of that has come way down over the years.As far as the instructions on the air kit,I may have them downstairs in my parts box,or,my Harman Technician friend can send them to me.Very simple,works well.Not gonna go downstairs tonight,so will be later.

I will paint it I was thinking of powder coating it only if I could find 2 old house ovens on craigslist I would powder coat that baby right up hehe
It's going to rain tomorrow so no blasting. I just what to get the frame done then I will put the stove back together and pop the new board in it and the auger motor and see if this thing runs or if it going to the dumps. Thanks Again Jeff