Seeking advice on new wood stove, chimney tie in

[topsail1215]

I have an old four square farmhouse in Winona, MN. There is an old woodstove in the basement, tied into a chimney that runs up through the center of the house. I have run the woodstove for a couple of years, but since the house is so drafty, especially in the basement, the wood stove heats up the basement, but there isn't much heat that rises to the main floor. My thought is to shut down the wood stove in the basement, and install a new wood stove in the living room. To do that, we would have to create an opening into the chimney for the stove pipe to connect into the chimney. I got an estimate from one of the few fireplace companies in the area for $10,000. I thought that was pretty high, since the wood stove we want is only $1,000-$2,000. So it seemed to me that they wanted to charge an extra $8,000 or so for their expertise and to tie into the chimney. I asked them if their installation person could just make the hole in my chimney, and they said no, that I'd have to buy the stove and the whole install package. I am wondering if I can serve as a general contractor myself for this project, to save some money. I need to 1. get a hole into the chimney 2. find out how much tile to put on the floor and wall 3. buy and put in place the new wood stove 4. connect the stove pipe to the chimney opening.

Some main questions;
-Who would I call to put a hole in my chimney that fits a stove pipe? A mason? (my chimney is clay surrounded by cinder block, in good shape, recently inspected by a chimney sweep)
-How do I find more information about how far electrical outlets need to be from wood stoves?
-How do I find more information on how much fire barrier (tile, etc) to put up?
-General comments or similar experiences from other people

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

The stove manual will list the clearance and hearth requirements. It sounds like the installer is trying to address safety issues first. The old chimney may not have adequate clearances. Did they propose installing an insulated, stainless steel liner?

If you have decent mechanical skills and follow the requirements, you could DIY the liner installation after fully cleaning the existing chimney first. How tall is the chimney?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I think the biggest bang for the buck will be fixing the drafty issue you mentioned . Regardless of the heating system you use, it’ll cost less since less heat will escape and less wind will enter.

Are your basement walls uninsulated? Figure 30% of your heat is escaping through them. Sill plate/rim joist sealing?

I agree that the installation company is looking to do a safe installation. You’re looking at a pretty tall liner. First floor, second floor, and a full height attic under a hip roof. Depending on how your roof is set up (snow shields, additions, dormers, etc) you may have access issues. A lift might be needed. Sometimes lifts can’t get close enough to a house due to trees, hills, etc.

Being your own GC is possible, but you have to know what you’re dealing with and possible safety issues to look out for. Just because a chimney has been safe so far doesn’t mean it was installed correctly and you haven’t been lucky.

 

[topsail1215]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Yes, I believe they were planning to install a stainless steel liner through the chimney. The chimney is pretty large, goes from the basement all the way through 1st, 2nd, and a large attic, as noted by EatenbyLimestone (he must know the foursquares). I have done my best with the drafty basement, I've caulked, sealed, spray foamed just about everything. It's just an old house with a cold basement when the night temps are getting to 10 degrees or less every night. The basement walls are fieldstone, the sillplate is fairly tight. You're spot on about rooftop access. It's a steep, scary roof, and after you mentioned it, I believe they would probably get a lift involved.
Sounds like, if it were your house, you both would not tap into the existing chimney without installing a liner?

 

[begreen]

The smoke and flue gases will cool down quite a bit in a long flue like this. That can lead to creosote accumulation at the top of the chimney when the flue gases drop below condensation temperature. And it doesn't sound like a project one wants to revisit. A heavy-duty, insulated liner will help address both of these concerns.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Yes, I believe they were planning to install a stainless steel liner through the chimney. The chimney is pretty large, goes from the basement all the way through 1st, 2nd, and a large attic, as noted by EatenbyLimestone (he must know the foursquares). I have done my best with the drafty basement, I've caulked, sealed, spray foamed just about everything. It's just an old house with a cold basement when the night temps are getting to 10 degrees or less every night. The basement walls are fieldstone, the sillplate is fairly tight. You're spot on about rooftop access. It's a steep, scary roof, and after you mentioned it, I believe they would probably get a lift involved.
Sounds like, if it were your house, you both would not tap into the existing chimney without installing a liner?

I deal with Wildlife mostly, sometimes chimneys, and have decided not to do some jobs on 4 squares when I could not access the roof safely. If they had a standard gable roof, they’d be much easier to work on.

Sears and Roebuck sold a lot of 4 square kits. When I’m in them I always look for markers on the exposed framing designating that it’s one.