Selkirk Supervent vs Metalbest Ultra-Temp vs Superpro

[leeave96]

All of these chimney systems are by Selkirk - what's the difference? Material, connections - are they interchangable?

I bought the Ultra-Temp chimney kit and I know that the Supervent stuff is sold at Lowes. For my vertical sections, it would be less of a hassle to run down to Lowes and pick-up some 48" lengths there - but for some reason I am thinking that even though Selkirk made both brands, they interchange differently at the connections.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

Metalbestos and Selkirk are two different companies. Different types of chimney, even from the same manufacturer, are not interchangeable. Even if they would fit, the chimneys are tested as a system and can only use components from that system.

 

[leeave96]

Metalbestos and Selkirk are two different companies. Different types of chimney, even from the same manufacturer, are not interchangeable. Even if they would fit, the chimneys are tested as a system and can only use components from that system.

I did some searching before posting and some searching after I posted and a little experimenting too.

Metalbestos (Metalbest) is a brand name of Selkirk - they are the same company - here is a link that shows it too: http://www.discountchimneysupply.com/metalbestos_chimney_6.html

I have the Metalbest Ultra-Temp through the wall chimney kit and it has a 6 x 12 inch piece of double wall pipe in it. On the way home from the salt mine , I stopped at Lowes and bought a piece of Supervent 6 x 12 inch double wall chimney pipe to see the differences. They are almost exact - the only real difference is that the male and female sides of the chimney pipe are slightly larger in diameter such that they will not fit into the Metalbest Ultra-Temp pipe or attach. I also bought a locking band and they are identical.

Bottom line is that I suspected the Lowes Supervent pipe would have something special about it that would make it unique to Lowes and it does. The good news with the Ultra-Temp is that you can buy it in a bunch of places and shop around for a good price or availability.

As to the metal walls of each brand pipe, I think they are 304 inside and 430 outside - both stainless steel. I am going to call Selkirk tech support line to confirm. My guess is the Super Pro may be 316 inside and 304 outside and be rated to burn both wood and coal.

That's what I think I know.

Bill

 

[Hiram Maxim]

400 series will still rust, I would kinda doubt that their using 400? never know I guess.

 

[leeave96]

More info - I called Selkirk and here is the skinny:

Supervent (Lowes) is 304 SS inside and 430 SS outside pipe.

Ultra-Temp is 304 SS inside and 430 SS outside pipe.

Superpro is 303 SS inside AND 304 SS outside pipe.

Parts between the Supervent and Superpro are interchangeable, but neither are interchangeable with the Ultra-Temp.

Good info to know.

Bill

 

[TX-L]

I used Metal-Fab 2100 °F Degree Temp Guard pipe for both my stoves, and have installed it at two other houses as well. It's rated for up to 1,000 °F continuous temperature and up to 2100 °F intermittent. I don't have a preference between brands, but the Metal-Fab supplier is conveniently located for me. It is specified for burning gas, liquid, or solid fuels. When the old downstairs stove is really rippin', you can easily place your hand(s) on the exterior of the Metal-Fab pipe, and it is warm, but definitely not hot to the touch. My friend's Simpson Duravent gets so hot you can't hold your hand on it.

Just thought I'd share.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

leeave96, you beat me to it. I was going to ask the forum the difference between Selkirk's Supervent (sold at Lowe's and Menards) and their Metal Best line. So based on what you're saying about the different metal used on the exterior of the Superpro, what does this mean practically?

I've purchased my Jotul stove but still looking at class A chimney. I was planning on buying Selkirk Supervent sold at Menards. But I want to get a handle on the differences between pipe before purchasing. I've seen many posts saying the Supervent pipe is good stuff.

Thanks.

 

[leeave96]

leeave96, you beat me to it. I was going to ask the forum the difference between Selkirk's Supervent (sold at Lowe's and Menards) and their Metal Best line. So based on what you're saying about the different metal used on the exterior of the Superpro, what does this mean practically?

I've purchased my Jotul stove but still looking at class A chimney. I was planning on buying Selkirk Supervent sold at Menards. But I want to get a handle on the differences between pipe before purchasing. I've seen many posts saying the Supervent pipe is good stuff.

Thanks.

I think it's all good stuff. The only caution is that if you buy the Supervent from Menards or Lowes, etc., and they don't have the piece you need, you might have to wait while it get's ordered. OTOH, the Ultra Temp is sold all over the internet. I found dynamitebuys.com had the best prices.

Good luck,
Bill

 

[glenlloyd]

I have Supervent in the garage, bought it used from a guy about 10 min. away from me, ended up being very good product. I would have purchased new but didn't see the need to and in the end I had left overs that I'll keep in case I need them. With the stove ripping downstairs I can touch the pipe in the garage attic and it's warm but not hot.

We have three Menards and a couple Lowes in my area and if I should need a piece I would think between them all I could find it.

steve

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I have Supervent in the garage, bought it used from a guy about 10 min. away from me, ended up being very good product. I would have purchased new but didn't see the need to and in the end I had left overs that I'll keep in case I need them. With the stove ripping downstairs I can touch the pipe in the garage attic and it's warm but not hot.

We have three Menards and a couple Lowes in my area and if I should need a piece I would think between them all I could find it.

steve

Thanks for taking time to post your experience with Supervent. I also have three Menards in my town and another about 30 minutes away. I figure that I should be able to get any stock part I need in a pinch. That is one of the reasons I've hesitated to order online. I only wondered how good the stuff is. Now I'm getting the idea that it's some good stuff. Considering that Selkirk has the Supervent line for DIY folks and a pro line, I was skeptical.

Did you install the Supervent yourself? Any tips or hiccups?

Thanks.

 

[Jackfre]

I represented Selkirk Metalbestos for 10 years in a 6 state area. It dominated chimney sales in those days, at least in that area. I know that because I represented Dura- Vent prior to that. I went to selkirk's site the other day, planning my new system and was confounded by the information offered. SM bought Jackes Evans out of Canada a number of years ago and combined the lines to create the products you are referencing. I think I'll call a few folks I still know n the business and ask them to explain the good better best of solid fuel venting.

Some history on the topic though. Years ago there was a UL103 listing. 103 was rated as a 1700F product. It was for oil and solid fuel. Fire reports indicated that the 1700F rating was insufficient when used for solid fuel and the new UL103HT, 2100F rating was adopted and all solid fuel had to meet that requirement. That was the new Class A. The 1700 F product remains available as the requirement for oil appliances. Pellet vent is L-vent and makes a dandy liner for oil appliances...if the appliance manuf goes alone...in writing! The 103HT required a re-engineering for the sold fuel business. Dura-vent added the starter section to their 1700 product. This is a very well designed and successful product although I still prefer the smaller OD pack chimney. Metalbestos had to increase the insulation in their product, as did other pack manuf.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I represented Selkirk Metalbestos for 10 years in a 6 state area. It dominated chimney sales in those days, at least in that area. I know that because I represented Dura- Vent prior to that. I went to selkirk's site the other day, planning my new system and was confounded by the information offered. SM bought Jackes Evans out of Canada a number of years ago and combined the lines to create the products you are referencing. I think I'll call a few folks I still know n the business and ask them to explain the good better best of solid fuel venting.

Some history on the topic though. Years ago there was a UL103 listing. 103 was rated as a 1700F product. It was for oil and solid fuel. Fire reports indicated that the 1700F rating was insufficient when used for solid fuel and the new UL103HT, 2100F rating was adopted and all solid fuel had to meet that requirement. That was the new Class A. The 1700 F product remains available as the requirement for oil appliances. Pellet vent is L-vent and makes a dandy liner for oil appliances...if the appliance manuf goes alone...in writing! The 103HT required a re-engineering for the sold fuel business. Dura-vent added the starter section to their 1700 product. This is a very well designed and successful product although I still prefer the smaller OD pack chimney. Metalbestos had to increase the insulation in their product, as did other pack manuf.

Some great info, Jackfre. This is why forums can be so darn good. I don't have to go read chapters and chapters to get the nitty gritty on stove pipe. And I can get good ideas for starting points into deeper readings to broaden my knowledge base.

 

[glenlloyd]

Thanks for taking time to post your experience with Supervent. I also have three Menards in my town and another about 30 minutes away. I figure that I should be able to get any stock part I need in a pinch. That is one of the reasons I've hesitated to order online. I only wondered how good the stuff is. Now I'm getting the idea that it's some good stuff. Considering that Selkirk has the Supervent line for DIY folks and a pro line, I was skeptical.

Did you install the Supervent yourself? Any tips or hiccups?

Thanks.

Yes, I installed the product myself. It was pretty straight forward and I basically planned the stove placement so that it would exit between the trusses yet be far enough from the wall as to not need additional combustible protection. My garage is 720 sq ft, two stall and the stove is placed ahead of and between the vehicles in the garage.

Plan your chimney well and you shouldn't have any problems. The only hiccup was not accounting for the tile roof ridge caps when I did the install. I need to go back and add another 1-2' section, which I possess already, to make sure the chimney is tall enough. It was borderline before the tile ridge caps were installed, now I know it needs to be extended at least one foot to have the appropriate 2' distance from anything within 10'. Since I have a roof brace also I'll probably install the two foot section just to be sure I conform.

Actually, I'll probably pull the whole assembly out when I go to switch to the old Haugh's stove I got this fall, that way I can check the piping.

steve

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Thanks for taking time to post your experience with Supervent. I also have three Menards in my town and another about 30 minutes away. I figure that I should be able to get any stock part I need in a pinch. That is one of the reasons I've hesitated to order online. I only wondered how good the stuff is. Now I'm getting the idea that it's some good stuff. Considering that Selkirk has the Supervent line for DIY folks and a pro line, I was skeptical.

Did you install the Supervent yourself? Any tips or hiccups?

Thanks.

Yes, I installed the product myself. It was pretty straight forward and I basically planned the stove placement so that it would exit between the trusses yet be far enough from the wall as to not need additional combustible protection. My garage is 720 sq ft, two stall and the stove is placed ahead of and between the vehicles in the garage.

Plan your chimney well and you shouldn't have any problems. The only hiccup was not accounting for the tile roof ridge caps when I did the install. I need to go back and add another 1-2' section, which I possess already, to make sure the chimney is tall enough. It was borderline before the tile ridge caps were installed, now I know it needs to be extended at least one foot to have the appropriate 2' distance from anything within 10'. Since I have a roof brace also I'll probably install the two foot section just to be sure I conform.

Actually, I'll probably pull the whole assembly out when I go to switch to the old Haugh's stove I got this fall, that way I can check the piping.

steve

Sounds good. When I looked at the stuff in the store, it didn't look hard to deal with. I'm well versed in construction, so I'm feeling good about it overall. I've a got a question or two about the heat shield (through the ceiling install) so I'm going to call the company. Otherwise, like you said, it's the planning that really sets it up. I want to be sure that I don't have to cut any rafters. I already framed a large rough opening in my ceiling about two years ago for this chimney project when I air sealed and insulated my attic. So I just have to be sure I cut through that area. I'll probably post a separate project for the class A chimney install.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

The stuff from Lowe's (Selkirk) is very good stuff. My parents have had it for 10 years and no problems with quality. Like someone else mentioned if you need a different piece that could be a problem. However Menards does carry different parts than Lowes so that might help. But quality is great!

 

[tfdchief]

I represented Selkirk Metalbestos for 10 years in a 6 state area. It dominated chimney sales in those days, at least in that area. I know that because I represented Dura- Vent prior to that. I went to selkirk's site the other day, planning my new system and was confounded by the information offered. SM bought Jackes Evans out of Canada a number of years ago and combined the lines to create the products you are referencing. I think I'll call a few folks I still know n the business and ask them to explain the good better best of solid fuel venting.

Some history on the topic though. Years ago there was a UL103 listing. 103 was rated as a 1700F product. It was for oil and solid fuel. Fire reports indicated that the 1700F rating was insufficient when used for solid fuel and the new UL103HT, 2100F rating was adopted and all solid fuel had to meet that requirement. That was the new Class A. The 1700 F product remains available as the requirement for oil appliances. Pellet vent is L-vent and makes a dandy liner for oil appliances...if the appliance manuf goes alone...in writing! The 103HT required a re-engineering for the sold fuel business. Dura-vent added the starter section to their 1700 product. This is a very well designed and successful product although I still prefer the smaller OD pack chimney. Metalbestos had to increase the insulation in their product, as did other pack manuf.

Jackfre, if you talk to Selkirk and find out the particulars of the different lines, I am real sure that posting it hear on the forum will be a great interest. I for one would like to know the differences. My local dealer sells the Selkirk SuperPro line and try as I may, I could not figure out what the meaningful differences were between it and the other lines. I used it and was happy with it. The only thing I don't like is the ceiling support box. It gives you the required 2 inch clearance to your framing. as do all of the different brands. I increased that 2 inches everywhere except the ceiling support box which I could do nothing about. I wish they would make it bigger for us anal people who like extra insurance.

 

[herdfan2003]

I hate to stir up an old thread but I searched and this is the only information I could find on this. I found a guy with a 1999 Buck stove hardly used and "almost" enough Selkirk SS II pipe to do the job for me for $800. I went to Lowes and bought a 3' section of Selkirk...wouldn't go together. My question is can I still get the Selkirk SS II or is any of their new stuff compatible.