shorter reducer

[JJinMaine]

Hi all - enjoy reading and learning on this site and just registered - hope you can help me out. I'm refurbishing an old Jotul #8 wood stove non-cat. It's been both a labor of love and education in frustration and cost but I remain hopeful. My question is: the top stove vent is 8" and my chimney flue is 6" - simple enough to get an 8" to 6" reducer but with the elbow to the chimney, the reducer is too tall. We can't alter the reducer or the elbow to make shorter. I got this stove from Craiglist many years ago and have already spent twice on parts (ceramic glass, gaskets for both door and glass, glass clips, assorted hardware plus cast iron handle and knob for what I paid for it so really trying to avoid buying the shorter leg kit to lower the whole stove. I can't find anywhere if they make a shorter collar piece that can also reduce from 8" stove vent to 6" flue. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

Replacement stove parts | Woodman's Parts Plus | Stove Gas Wood Stove Parts

Woodman's Parts Plus offers over 20,000 in stock parts for your wood, coal, gas, oil or pellet unit, as well as barbecues and outdoor power equipment. Over 400 old and current manufacturers, with unique parts and patterns.

www.woodmanspartsplus.com

 

[JJinMaine]

Replacement stove parts | Woodman's Parts Plus | Stove Gas Wood Stove Parts

Woodman's Parts Plus offers over 20,000 in stock parts for your wood, coal, gas, oil or pellet unit, as well as barbecues and outdoor power equipment. Over 400 old and current manufacturers, with unique parts and patterns.

www.woodmanspartsplus.com

thanks but this is not the right reducer size - I need an 8" from stove vent to 6" elbow on chimney reducer. 175mm is not quite 7". Also the height of the reducer piece is critical as the other reducers I've purchased are all too tall.

 

[begreen]

The manual says to go no smaller than 7".

 

[JJinMaine]

The manual says to go no smaller than 7".

Thank you. I printed out both the 16pg Series 8 and the 6pg Old #8 manuals and couldn't find that info! Good to know. So if it's to be reduced no more than 7", then the reducer must go inside the top stove vent ? The top stove vent is roughly 8" wide and a friend thought it was to go on the outside of the (about 1") high enamel lip but if manual says not to use more than a 7" reducer, it must go inside the stove vent lip. Was also concerned since don't see any screw holes on the lip or bottom of the reducer. Pic attached is of width of top stove vent Second pic os of originally purchased 8" to 6" reducer which is too high (and now I know is incorrect anyway). Thanks for your input!

 

[coaly]

All joints downward go inside. At one time NFPA 211 allowed 1 inch reduction of diameter from stove outlet. Current ICC codes (International) no longer allow any reduction. Many do, and physically work fine depending on chimney, but is not a legal installation. These codes are for new installs, not existing.

Did you look at increasers at Ace Hardware? I believe they sell a short one, or used to.

There were sellers on eBay selling stainless reducers of different sizes that are welded flat plate across top instead of cone. Little to no rise with them.

 

[coaly]

See if 7 5/8 works inside; (broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-to-7-5-8-Stainless-Steel-Fisher-Stove-Pipe-Reducer/182169982646?hash=item2a6a2d56b6:m:m0aTUrcrHHKBCdoI2KksPVg)
This seller makes all sizes.

 

[JJinMaine]

See if 7 5/8 works inside; (broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-to-7-5-8-Stainless-Steel-Fisher-Stove-Pipe-Reducer/182169982646?hash=item2a6a2d56b6:m:m0aTUrcrHHKBCdoI2KksPVg)
This seller makes all sizes.

You are an incredible resource! This is really so helpful. And the friend was my ex-husband (more like an annoying brother) who said it goes on the outside of the lip - I thought it went on the inside. Can't wait to tell him I was right If you're not bored yet... I'm attaching the wooden knob (from Woodsman plus - they know me now) to the cast iron handle (also from woodsman - NOT pre-drilled. That was a fun drill press project and it looks like when screwed tightly, the wood could/will split near the cast iron handle. I know it's an after market knob piece at only $9 bucks but I hate to alter it since it is the suggested Jotul part. My ex keeps wanting to grind down the wooden knob flush so when it's screwed in less likely for splitting at the weakened indentation which it has now. Pic attached although tough to see indentations on the bottom of the knob but it's deeper than the one on top where screw head fits in. Your thoughts?

 

[bholler]

My thoughts are coming out the top and immediately reducing and going into an elbow is asking for draft problems. How tall is the chimney

 

[JJinMaine]

I've had an old Federal Airtight in there for past 17 years with a reducer I had custom made from 8" oval to 6" round elbow to flue and it drafted beautifully. This is at my seasonal camp in western part of the state so doesn't get a ton of use. Chimney is about 22-24' high.

 

[bholler]

I've had an old Federal Airtight in there for past 17 years with a reducer I had custom made from 8" oval to 6" round elbow to flue and it drafted beautifully. This is at my seasonal camp in western part of the state so doesn't get a ton of use. Chimney is about 22-24' high.

At that height it should be ok.

 

[begreen]

The stove should have a flue collar with a flange. It looks like this. Maybe give Woodman's Parts Plus a call and see if they have one?

 

[coaly]

You are an incredible resource! This is really so helpful. And the friend was my ex-husband (more like an annoying brother) who said it goes on the outside of the lip - I thought it went on the inside. Can't wait to tell him I was right If you're not bored yet... I'm attaching the wooden knob (from Woodsman plus - they know me now) to the cast iron handle (also from woodsman - NOT pre-drilled. That was a fun drill press project and it looks like when screwed tightly, the wood could/will split near the cast iron handle. I know it's an after market knob piece at only $9 bucks but I hate to alter it since it is the suggested Jotul part. My ex keeps wanting to grind down the wooden knob flush so when it's screwed in less likely for splitting at the weakened indentation which it has now. Pic attached although tough to see indentations on the bottom of the knob but it's deeper than the one on top where screw head fits in. Your thoughts?

That's another reason for him to be your ex. The reason for installing male end down, inside the lower piece, is to prevent water that condenses from the water vapor created by combustion from leaking out the joints. This allows condensate to drip back into stove to be consumed, instead of leaking out of any pipe joint. This condensate can be in the form of black tarry goo that would be quite flammable on the stove top.

It's called a shoulder bolt or a bolt with smooth shank with only threads at bottom that the nut bottoms on the shank before tightening down on the knob. Or leave nut loose enough for handle to spin and drill a small hole through nut and bolt sideways. Cotter pin or safety wire nut to prevent nut from rotating.