Cleaning the stove today i noticed this small gob of goo so i scraped it out to reveal a small hole about 1/16 dia that has been drilled. Should it be there, what would its purpose be, why would it be plugged?
![[Hearth.com] Should This Hole Be Here?](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi191.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz86%2FR-Gs%2Fhole.jpg&hash=2bfae5182040a9834dbc30c4089cfc37 "[Hearth.com] Should This Hole Be Here?")
Should This Hole Be Here?
- Thread starter R-G
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Looks like little spot welds? Does the stove burn any different? Lots of little welds in the front of the unit?
If the goop was plugging an unnecessary hole, then I would fill back in.
A Whitefield owner should be along soon. I don't see it being for a Mag gauge on an older stove. Possible for vac switch? If applicable?
If the goop was plugging an unnecessary hole, then I would fill back in.
A Whitefield owner should be along soon. I don't see it being for a Mag gauge on an older stove. Possible for vac switch? If applicable?
I pulled the goop out to see if there is a difference, having a problem with some of the pellets not burning completely, turning black and loading up in the center of the pot. Its not really a clinker, its soft.
Have tried different settings, pellets, leaf blower trick, cleaning per manual but it still does it. Have not pulled blowers (dont know what that involves or how its done) in fear of messing something up and having to turn on the furnace.
I scrape out the pot every few hours to keep it clean. Was thinking the hole might be part of the problem?
Have tried different settings, pellets, leaf blower trick, cleaning per manual but it still does it. Have not pulled blowers (dont know what that involves or how its done) in fear of messing something up and having to turn on the furnace.
I scrape out the pot every few hours to keep it clean. Was thinking the hole might be part of the problem?
Ive had the stove for a couple months so this is all new to me. Did the dollar bill test, replaced the door and ash pan gaskets.
And did the test afterwards as well I hope.
I'd make certain I got the combustion side totally cleaned out this goes from the air intake to where the stove adapter goes.
Just a small build up rounding the edges of the vanes on the combustion blower impeller can reduce the air flow through the system as can any build up in the slots on your burn pot liner.
If your combustion blower can be oiled (some can some can't) follow the oil recommendation on the motor makers plate and lubricate the blower motor.
Did you get a service manual for the stove so you can locate all of the ash traps?
I'd make certain I got the combustion side totally cleaned out this goes from the air intake to where the stove adapter goes.
Just a small build up rounding the edges of the vanes on the combustion blower impeller can reduce the air flow through the system as can any build up in the slots on your burn pot liner.
If your combustion blower can be oiled (some can some can't) follow the oil recommendation on the motor makers plate and lubricate the blower motor.
Did you get a service manual for the stove so you can locate all of the ash traps?
Yes rechecked afer gaskets were put on, how would i go about cleaning the blower on this model?
I have the owners manual, need to find/buy a service manual.
I have the owners manual, need to find/buy a service manual.
If your stove has a quick disconnect for the combustion blower there are 6 nuts that you loosen (or remove) and the blower motor will either be able to be turned and pulled (or pulled) to remove it from its cavity.
Be absolutely certain you have a replacement gasket before even attempting this because they normally fall apart and can't be reused some folks can do the removal job without damaging the gasket but you need that gasket.
The service manuals are available from a number of stove parts websites sometimes even the makers sites in this case if the maker has them it would be the Lennox site because they own the brand.
Wood Heat Stoves has them available to down load for a price.
Be absolutely certain you have a replacement gasket before even attempting this because they normally fall apart and can't be reused some folks can do the removal job without damaging the gasket but you need that gasket.
The service manuals are available from a number of stove parts websites sometimes even the makers sites in this case if the maker has them it would be the Lennox site because they own the brand.
Wood Heat Stoves has them available to down load for a price.
![[Hearth.com] Should This Hole Be Here?](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi191.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz86%2FR-Gs%2Fblr.jpg&hash=0f621490929a4f0d88ae6f4d808d1970 "[Hearth.com] Should This Hole Be Here?")
It isn't a quick disconnect unit as far as the motor mounting goes that's for certain.
You have to remove the motor plus blower housing for that setup, that still needs a gasket to be available just in case and requires the vent to be disconnected, then those five nuts on the outside of the blower housing get removed and the motor and blower housing gets removed as a unit.
Did you check for possible lubrication information on the motor makers plate?
You have to remove the motor plus blower housing for that setup, that still needs a gasket to be available just in case and requires the vent to be disconnected, then those five nuts on the outside of the blower housing get removed and the motor and blower housing gets removed as a unit.
Did you check for possible lubrication information on the motor makers plate?
This the gasket i need when taking off the blower?
(broken link removed to http://woodheatstoves.com/combustion-blower-housing-gasket-whitfield-pp5202-p-375.html?cPath=499_502)
Is a gasket for the motor needed too, didnt see one on thier website. Dealer told me not to lubricate them.
(broken link removed to http://woodheatstoves.com/combustion-blower-housing-gasket-whitfield-pp5202-p-375.html?cPath=499_502)
Is a gasket for the motor needed too, didnt see one on thier website. Dealer told me not to lubricate them.
That's the gasket.
There isn't one for the motor in that configuration.
If the motor doesn't call for lubrication then not lubing them is fine, just make certain that the motor makers plate doesn't have lubrication information and the motor doesn't have oil ports. Because if it does they need to be lubricated with that oil or they won't work well or for long.
When working on an older stove sometimes things aren't the same as when it left the factory. Replacement parts have been known to not be OEM parts.
There isn't one for the motor in that configuration.
If the motor doesn't call for lubrication then not lubing them is fine, just make certain that the motor makers plate doesn't have lubrication information and the motor doesn't have oil ports. Because if it does they need to be lubricated with that oil or they won't work well or for long.
When working on an older stove sometimes things aren't the same as when it left the factory. Replacement parts have been known to not be OEM parts.
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