Small box stove in Fireplace

[chopper698]

I came a across an Old Hickory wood stove made by the Atlanta stove company that someone had given me. It is in excellent shape almost looks like
it wasn't even used. I want to use this as a free standing stove in my fireplace, It fits perfect. I intend to take out the existing flu plate and frame. My chimney runs the center of the house, the house was built in 1929. The chimney is lined with teracatta. My questions are this; Is anyone familiar with this stove and should I use a piece of stainless flex chim pipe or stove pipe? And how far up should I go? I really dont want to have to go all the way up to the top with either. I am going to fabricate a steel plate with a 6" hole that either pipe will pass through so the heat wont go up the chimney, and I only need to heat the living room because I have a coal stove in the rear of the house thats runs 24/7. This old hickory says it heats 800 sqr ft. I went online and cant find any info on this stove.

 

[webbie]

I seem to remember a brand called Old Hickory, but do not remember it being Atlanta. Can you describe the looks of this thing?
Does it look like the Vogelzang box stoves?

Or, is it the cast stove shown in the other pic here?

 

[chopper698]

Thats exactly it on the right side.

 

[webbie]

OK, some basics.

The stove probably had a label on it, but might be tough to find.....they tend to fade or fall off. You should use "generic" NFPA specs for installing a stove like this.
You do have to be concerned about a few things.

1. The hearth needs to be protected 16-18" in front of the load door - this can be done with a hearth extension board, or a large piece of stone etc.
2. Any wood on the fireplace front...or even a top mantel - should be protected or at least a very safe distance away.
3. You have the right idea to make a sheet metal block off plate - we have instructions on this site on how to do so.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/

4. At the very minimum, a stainless steel flex pipe should be run from your stove up through the damper and to the vicinity of the first flue tile. This assumes your chimney is in good condition (for wood burning) and that it is not vastly over sized.

There are other concerns. It might be tough to see if your chimney has the safe (modern) distances from combustibles where it passes through the floors and roof -maybe you can see this in the attic. Current codes say that the tile and one layer of brick is not enough, there must be an air space around the chimney before wood (framing, flooring) can touch it.

You can bring the chimney up to code by installing a liner all the way up and insulating it, but that is a relatively expensive proposition.

The above should get you started.

 

[chopper698]

Im probably going with the flex to the first flu tile, but am I going to be able to purchase a short piece without being sold the whole thing?
That should be intresting. I dont think I am going to have 16-18 inches in the front of the stove more like 12. Im not to familiar with flex pipe
so I am assuming that the first fitting out of the stove is an adapter and then the flex pipe goes over that with a clamp? And do you think a dampner is necessary?

 

[Corie]

I dont think I am going to have 16-18 inches in the front of the stove more like 12.

Well that ain't gonna cut it! You'll need that hearth, not only to pass inspect, but for safety as well. That's bare cast iron on the bottom of that stove, there shall be a lot of heat radiating down.

 

[chopper698]

Let me clarify a bit, this stove will be inside the fireplace. My fireplace is level with the floor and the floor of the fireplace {which is concrete} sticks out a foot {which is tile} fro the face of the fireplace.
The front of the stove will be just past the face of the fireplace about 6".

 

[webbie]

Yeah, you still need the hearth in front - that is for sparks and logs rolling out. There are inexpensive hearth extension boards available, which are mineral board with dimpled sheet metal on top......something like that should do the job.

You can easily find "direct connect" tubes which are 5 foot of stainless steel flex. You do need an adapted on the stove end.
example:
http://www.fireplacesnow.com/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=2403&idproduct=49558

 

[chopper698]

Ok will do, I will use a piece of wonder board and tile it. And thanks for that website for the flex pipe. What about a dampner?

 

[webbie]

If stove is fairly tight, a damper will not be needed. Check the stove using a drop light inside to see if you can see through the seams - if so, pack black furnace cement into them from the inside.

 

[chopper698]

Ok, Thanks for your advice I appreciate it and I wil keep you posted.

 

[chopper698]

Well on further inspection of the stove it had many leaks. So I dismantled the stove, pulled out the old gasket in the door and threw out all the hardware for it.
It broke down pretty easy except for some hardware that I had to break with a chisel, all in all its just 8 pieces. Tomorrow I will bring them to work and glass bead
all the parts and replace all the hardware with stainless. I just want to no if anyone can suggest a good furnace cement or is there really no comparison in furnace
cement. My friend said use the rutland in the tube so you can apply it with a caulking gun. The stove parts go together like a tongue and groove so it would easy to
apply.

 

[begreen]

Rutland is fine. It's what I rebuilt our Jotul 602 with. Note that at first it may be watery coming out of the tube. Knead the tube first to mix then keep squeezing out a bead until it is thick and pasty. Let it cure thoroughly per package directions before firing up the stove.