I cut the twine on my princess. New in box. There was no door so I wouldn’t call it fully assembled as tested. The ceramic cat was installed. Twine threaded through it and the flame shield.
I was referring to the combustor, gasketing, part of the question. Incidentally, emissions testing is done with no pedestal/legs etc. The doors have thermocouples all over them, and does stack, firebox, cat (front and back), flue collar etc.
With the door there were color/finish options so no surprise that the door was boxed separately.
With Thanksgiving chaos and warmer temps I let the stove die out . Restarted last night and I pushed harder when closing the bypass. After some pressure there was a distinct clunk noise which I hadn't heard before. Although it was dark and I was looking with a headlamp, there appeared to be much less smoke than on the previous cold starts. Perhaps I didn't have the cat locked down into position.
While the manual is very detailed about the locking requirement, folks do miss that point of operation. Next time you clean the stack, you can wire brush the ramp of the bypass plate to remove any buildup as a result of not having been locked down. No harm done...
How much pressure? If it's requiring much more pressure than a 4 year old could apply, it's possible (actually, likely) there's some debris on the gasket, or the gasket isn't properly laid. There should be a distinct detent as you feel the cam roll past top dead center, but it should by no means take a lot of force. More like pushing your finger into a firm mattress, than pulling on a wrench.
This is good information! Thank you.
If it hasn't been locked down. the build up is most likely on the ramp itself. That is why you would want to clean it during next chimney sweeping....and what kind of 4 year olds are you raising!
You can follow the instructions in the manual and increase the tension very, very slightly! We never recommend more than 1/4 or 1/2 clockwise turn of the bolt....
I do not feel a detent at top dead center at all - the handle moves smoothly all the way to, say, 2 o'clock or so. At that point, if I press on it, it moves forward to maybe 3 o'clock with a "clunk". Stove is brand new with maybe 2 weeks worth of 24x7 burn time. I don't think there was debris originally at least but I'll check next time I let the fire die. I can't assess the precise newtons a four year old can apply vs a firm mattress resists
but I wasn't leaning on the handle to get it to clunk.
Your description is perfect. So no need to clean anything at this point. I do think we should clone Ashful's 4 year old for wood splitters!I do not feel a detent at top dead center at all - the handle moves smoothly all the way to, say, 2 o'clock or so. At that point, if I press on it, it moves forward to maybe 3 o'clock with a "clunk". Stove is brand new with maybe 2 weeks worth of 24x7 burn time. I don't think there was debris originally at least but I'll check next time I let the fire die. I can't assess the precise newtons a four year old can apply vs a firm mattress resists
Great. Next question: I now have to turn the t-stat all the way around to almost 2 o'clock to get WOT and turning it back to say 9 o'clock I hear the damper close. Is this the set screw issue I've read about elsewhere? Given it's new, should I have the dealer tackle this? It's a Chinook 20.2
The effective range of motion is different than actual operating range. If we are looking at a clock face, depending upon your draft, you would be low at 2:30 and high at 6.
As long as turning the knob full clockwise it stops hard pointing straight down then there is no adjustment needed.
My Princess seems to operate a bit differently than this. It runs full blast at 6, and I turn it down to about 2 to run low. However, usually a few hours into the burn the stove keeps getting hotter and hotter, and if I back the knob down to about 11, I can visually see the air cut off in the stove and it dies down.
Not at all. If your particular install has sufficient draft .04 or higher at 11:00, you can burn there and not stall the cat, good job. But you should also make certain additional combustion air isn't getting in via, door seal, glass seal, bypass closed and locked etc. And when you say stove gets hotter, are you referencing that cat thermometer? If so, that is also completely normal as residence time is being increased.
I have no experience on this, but reason tells me that drawing cold air in thru an outside air kit should cause a behavior similar to this, essentially causing the spring to open the damper more than the same knob position if drawing in warm room air. So, if you have an OAK, this might explain the difference in your setting for a given burn rate, versus mine. I'm drawing in extremely warm air, since my stoves are stuffed back into a fireplace, the stone work of which heats up over time and keeps the entire rig very warm.
