Snowblower electrical problem.

[Dmitry]

Hello. Not exactly wood processing equipment but still hope to get advice.

I have Troy Built 2 stage snow blower that 3 years old, residential use, not abused. It has electrical chute rotator that controls by joystick close to left handle. This year it takes 4 times longer for chute to move from point a to point b. I checked all the mechanical parts and it seems OK. I've also noticed that the headlight bulb is not bright as it used to be, just somewhat glowing. So, I assume its electrical problem. Any idea what to check next? . All the wires seem in place and not damaged.

Here is the blower on parts website:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/tr...0-snowblower-parts-c-26780_173614_201727.html

 

[Dmitry]

Is it alternator problem?
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/alternator-assembly-p-1534500.html

How do I check ?

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Check the ground wire!

 

[Dmitry]

Check the ground wire!

Seems ok

 

[Ashful]

Never worked on a snowblower electrical system, but first two things I'd check:

1. voltage at generator
2. voltage at load (light or rotator motor)

That second item must be checked with the load turned on (i.e. while rotating the chute), and on the load side of the wiring terminal (so terminal corrosion can be observed).

If voltage is low at generator, then you have a generator problem. If voltage is good at generator, but low at load, you have a wiring problem.

 

[Dmitry]

It makes sens . Gonna get voltmeter today. Should it be 12v?

 

[Jags]

It makes sens . Gonna get voltmeter today. Should it be 12v?

If it has a battery charging circuit (I didn't look at the parts link) - i think you will find it should be a bit higher. Somewhere in the range of about 12.8 to 13.4 would be common.

 

[Dmitry]

No , there is no battery.

 

[Jags]

No , there is no battery.

OK. As a voltage comparison...a good battery would put out about 12.4v. I would suspect the system on the snowblower to be similar.

Edit: and it should be measured while under load.

 

[rwhite]

This is a pretty simple system. No storage, just an Alternator to provide the juice while running. Not a lot that can go wrong. Start pulling wire connections off 1 at a time and ohm test to insure there's not an open or high resistance circuit. Clean all connections and apply dielectric grease before plugging back in. Once.you can insure all wiring is good the only thing left is an alternator. Remove the flywheel and clean everything. Probably have to search the specs but check the resistance. They can be rewound but I bet it's cheaper to buy new. To check charging , they are like a boat motor. Anything above 12v is likely Good.

 

[rwhite]

Usually a high load is commonly a bad ground. Pull all ground wires as well and clean/sand the connections. If you've used or plowed with salt on the ground it can corrode connections.

 

[Ashful]

This is a pretty simple system. No storage, just an Alternator to provide the juice while running. Not a lot that can go wrong. Start pulling wire connections off 1 at a time and ohm test to insure there's not an open or high resistance circuit. Clean all connections and apply dielectric grease before plugging back in.

While this might turn out to resolve the problem, it's not good trouble-shooting practice to start pulling connections before you determine the source of the problem. If you do this, you're likely to find the problem "fixed", without ever knowing what caused it. It's always better to know the source of the problem, so you can put a permanent fix in place, rather than dealing with it again when it re-occurs next year.

If you don't know the proper voltage, at least start by checking voltage at generator and at load, with load turned on (eg. while light is on or while rotating chute). Make sure you're checking on the actual load terminal, not on the wiring ring terminal or screw head. If these voltages are different, then you have a wiring problem, which is most likely on equipment operated in the snow. If these voltages are the same, while under load, then your wiring is fine and you have a generator problem.

 

[rwhite]

While this might turn out to resolve the problem, it's not good trouble-shooting practice to start pulling connections before you determine the source of the problem. If you do this, you're likely to find the problem "fixed", without ever knowing what caused it. It's always better to know the source of the problem, so you can put a permanent fix in place, rather than dealing with it again when it re-occurs next year.

If you don't know the proper voltage, at least start by checking voltage at generator and at load, with load turned on (eg. while light is on or while rotating chute). Make sure you're checking on the actual load terminal, not on the wiring ring terminal or screw head. If these voltages are different, then you have a wiring problem, which is most likely on equipment operated in the snow. If these voltages are the same, while under load, then your wiring is fine and you have a generator problem.

Yes, but these things don't provide hardly any voltage to begin with. It likely would run poorly every time you added a load because the spark would be affected. And any break in the alternator would likely not allow it to run at all. There's probably only 3-4 wires and connections which probably weren't greased right from the factory. They operate in a wet, often salty environment and subject to a lot of vibration. My money's on a poor ground.

 

[jrems]

If you have heated hand grips it's very possible one shorted and is pulling most of the current. I would disconnect them and see what happens.

 

[Dmitry]

If you have heated hand grips it's very possible one shorted and is pulling most of the current. I would disconnect them and see what happens.

I've turned the hand grips off, nothing changed.

 

[Ashful]

If the switch is on the hot side of the grips, that's fine. However, if the switch is on the ground side, it wouldn't be a determinant of a problem.

 

[Dmitry]

Guys , Thank you for help. I hate when OP is not updating their own posts . Just being busy between work , snow storms and other equally exiting stuff. I've connected/disconnected all the wires , cleaned the ground . Same thing. Need to pick up the voltmeter. Starting to think its alternator failure. This thing is almost new , being used like 20 times may be. No harsh chemicals or abuse . I noticed that sometimes chute rotates at higher rate when head light is somewhat brighter. But when headlight is dim it moves very slowly.

 

[greg13]

this should help.You should have the flywheel type alternator.
http://smallengineinformation.com/?page_id=435