Soffit Help

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arodrigz

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 10, 2008
29
Indiana
Hi, I am installing a vermont castings vigilant parlor stove into my home. I will be removing a ventless gas fireplace that is installed into a dog house that protrudes about 2 ft outside the house. My intention is to open up that dog house inside the house after removing the stove then bricking a protected wall. The stove will sit half way into the newly remodeled alcove. My intention is to go up with stove pipe to the top of the alcove then switch to insulated chimney pipe going through the roof of the dog house and rising up the outside of the house. Everything makes sense to me except the soffit part. This is on the gable end of the house and I have an approximate 12" soffit. I'm using supervent 8" chimney pipe that has an outside diameter of 10 1/4". I've been told that I can not elbow around the soffit and that I must go through it, however, keeping a 2" clearance from the combustible wall puts the pipe on the outside of the soffit by an inch or so.

How do I go through a 12" soffit with a 10 1/4" pipe, keep the 2" clearances and support my soffit. I was thinking that I could notch the soffit out but then I would have to frame around the pipe or somehow support the soffit. Also, how do I flash the thing if it sticks out past the soffit. Even if I trim the flashing so that it will be flush with the soffit I would still have a couple of inches of pipe stick out and the flashing would not go all the way around.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also, let me know if the opening up the alcove thing should be ok as well.

I have a two story home with a 10/12 roof. I've calculated that I have to rise 24 1/2 ft above the roof of the dog house in order to meet the requirement above the roof. So my installation will rise from the stove, though the dog house roof which will have to be flashed, then up the outside wall, through the soffit which will also be flashed, then up another 7 feet or so. The peak of the house roof is closer than 10 ft so I'll have to go above that 2 ft. I've attached photos of the soffit, dog house and gas fire place currently installed for reference.
Thanks
Alex
 

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If it were mine I think I would take off that little roof and build that box up to 2' above the house roof and run the insulated pipe thru it,or use a stove with a 6" chimney, selkirk does make a peak flashing to exit the ridge
 
I second scrapping the roof of the dog house & chasing that thing all the way up.
 
Why can't you elbow around the soffit? My installers do it all the time. Does the brand of chimney you are using not have elbows available?
I personally would add on to the dog house chase all the way up as was said, but elbowing is an option.
 
It definitely can be done, no doubt. But it's more expensive for the piping and often doesn't look that great. IMHO, the pipe ends up looking a little like something out of Dogpatch. A straight up stack is easier to clean and just looks more proper to me. But that's just my 2 cents.
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the advice. I'd love to build a chase all the way up but it's going to be expensive enough as it is and I was hoping to maybe do that next year. As far as the pipe is concerned, it is SuperVent pipe from selkirk and they do make 15, 30 or 45 degree elbows but when I called the company a customer service rep told me that I could not use the elbows to go around the soffit on the outside of the house and that the elbows were intended for use inside the attic. That does not make any sense to me in that the elbows are made out of the same material as the straight sections. It's all class A with two inch clearances from combustibles. Further, the pieces lock together with locking bands so I can't imagine it to be a stability issue.

Anyone familiar with SuperVent's elbow system?

Hey Parrot Head, how do your installers support the chimney after they elbow around the soffit? I was reading this morning and it seems the concern is that once you elbow out away from the wall and the supporting chimney below, that the elbow is not strong enough to support the weight of the rest of the chimney rising above the roof. In my case I have to rise about 6 - 7 ft after going around the soffit.
 
If you are planning on building a chase next year, then why not just box in the soffit for the chase now? That way you avoid getting unnecessary parts and expense and you'll be set up for the chase next year.
 
We have been using Excel Chimney for about 9 years now, and their wall brackets are short enough that they can be mounted to the facia, or they also make a strap type support for the elbows, what we use depends on the particular situation. On a few occasions we have lag bolted angle iron to the roof and extended it out past the edge far enough to bolt it to a modified wall bracket. This is a very strong method, but care has to be taken to seal the roof properly!
 
I didnt strap my chimney to the house at all. Just make sure you ahve a good solid poured base
 
Adirondackwoodburner said:
I didnt strap my chimney to the house at all. Just make sure you ahve a good solid poured base

???????????????? we are talking class "a" chimney systems here. Are you referring to a masonry chimney?
 
I looked at the excel chimney on the web. Look like pretty good stuff; unlike the Selkirk SuperVent that I bought, excel does make provision for elbowing around the soffit. SuperVent does not make the proper support. So far I have about $1300 in pipe and components. Here's a list of components that I've purchased:
1. 8 sections of 36" chimney
2. 1 24" chimney
3. 1 12" chimney
4. 2 roof flashing
5. Universal roof guy kit
6. 3 wall bands
7. deluxe rain cap
8. attic insulation shield
9. ceiling support
10. stove pipe adapter
11. storm collar
12. 1 finishing plate for soffit

If I were to elbow around the soffit I would have to buy the elbow kit and could return the finishing plate and the extra flashing. What would this set up run me in the excel chimney.

Thanks
 
Excel 6" chim system to out a side wall and up 24' and elbow around the soffit would run about $2300-$2500 for the materials
 
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