Some combustion issues?

[mikemc53]

I have a new Summers Heat (by England Stove Works) 50-SNC13L which has the air inlet at the bottom of the stove. Now I don't know mush about burning (only been doing it for a few weeks) but I'm trying to learn. Taking into account that most of my wood is fairly well seasoned (ash and silver maple) and I do get seemingly good chimney draw and draft, with no smoke in the house, ever, and a clean looking burn from the stack - here's the issue. Even with the air inlet control open completely I don't get a good hot burn unless I crack the stove door somewhat. If I crack it just a little (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch) I get real good flame and burn. But with the door closed it just doesn't seem to draw as well. I know that on start up and when adding wood it might sometimes be necessary, but this is a good part of the time like this. When I do get a really good burn going I can keep the door completely closed, but it seems to invariably get a little "tired" if you will. And even though the burns don't seem too hot sometimes, I go through quite a bit of wood - and it hasn't been all that cold - temperature wise.

By the way, I have no damper in the stove pipe, so I'm sure I'm sending some good heat up the chimney, but I would think that the with that I should also get a pretty good air draw. As I said - a rookie. The house and windows also seem to be very air tight - maybe part of the problem?

 

[LLigetfa]

Taking into account that most of my wood is fairly well seasoned (ash and silver maple) and I do get seemingly good chimney draw and draft, with no smoke in the house, ever...

"Fairly well seasoned" is such a relative term and in your case perhaps too generous.

"good chimney draw" I doubt because then you wouldn't have to open the door to get the fire to burn decent. You don't describe your chimney so I'm guessing it is deficient.

Does your stove use room air or outside air? Does it have an OAK option? If the house suffers from negative pressure, it will affect the air supply if not OAK fed.

 

[begreen]

Greetings Mike. Could be draft. Describe the entire flue system on this new stove. Start with the the stove up to the chimney cap. How large are the splits that are going into the stove? Is there any sizzling or bubbling occurring on the ends of the splits as they first heat up?

 

[fossil]

Maybe a couple of pics of your installation, mike. Rick

 

[Hiram Maxim]

Mike,

Welcome :cheese:

Where are you at in South Eastern Michigan?

Try some seasoned wood from Home Depot (on sale right now) and see if that doesn't cure your problem.

 

[SlyFerret]

What you're describing is exactly what I experience when I burn wood that isn't quite ready.

Something else I notice, which was counterintuitive at first, is that once I do get a fire established, the stove actually burns MUCH hotter with the air turned down. When it's wide open, too much heat goes up the stove. With less air, the heat stays in the firebox and the entire system can function as its supposed to.

Can you describe your fire starting technique for us?

-SF

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Sly, you are very correct. Leave the draft full open only until you get the fire established and then dial it down else almost all the heat goes right up the chimney. It should not take more than 10-20 minutes maximum to get a good fire going. We can do it in 5 minutes with our dry wood, but put some other wood that has seasoned just over the summer and it can take longer. Try with some so-called seasoned wood from a supplier and it might take 45 minutes...

Also, if you burn 100% ash, it will need a little more draft than with some other woods, but not full draft for sure. I am interested in the chimney too.