Something's gonna have to change

[FaithfulWoodsman]

So I'm on the 3 year plan now, but this year burning 1.5-2 year c/s/s (ash, soft maple, beech). I top cover my stuff with tarps, but have half the stacks under rubber roof. The past two years I've loaded two cords into the woodshed by the house in sept and it burns great when I start in Nov. When I reload in early Jan the stuff is not near as dry and doesn't burn as good. I figured with this stuff this year being 2 yrs it wouldnt be an issue. But I'm getting quite a bit of water still? Fresh splits read around 17%-20%, but it doesn't seem to be dry enough. I either need another shed, more rubber roof, or more room so I can stack with more air (currently double stack stack on pallets, with space in-between pallet runs). Maybe I shouldn't rush to judgement as I put a fresh off the pile load in tonight, and should give it a little time in the basement or shed. But this ain't rain water, they sizzle out the end. Just frustrated, first batch burned like a dream.

 

[weatherguy]

Most wood sizzles even at 15%, there's always a little moisture still in the wood, is your stove just not getting hot enough?

 

[Woody Stover]

this year burning 1.5-2 year c/s/s (ash, soft maple, beech). I top cover my stuff with tarps, but have half the stacks under rubber roof. The past two years I've loaded two cords into the woodshed by the house in sept and it burns great when I start in Nov. When I reload in early Jan the stuff is not near as dry and doesn't burn as good. I figured with this stuff this year being 2 yrs it wouldnt be an issue. But I'm getting quite a bit of water still? Fresh splits read around 17%-20%, but it doesn't seem to be dry enough. I either need another shed, more rubber roof, or more room so I can stack with more air (currently double stack stack on pallets, with space in-between pallet runs). Maybe I shouldn't rush to judgement as I put a fresh off the pile load in tonight, and should give it a little time in the basement or shed. But this ain't rain water, they sizzle out the end. Just frustrated, first batch burned like a dream.

I don't know about Beech, but in two years, the Ash and particularly the soft Maple, should be dry I would think. Maybe Ash that was cut live would need another year, but I wouldn't think so. Sure there's not a little Oak or something mixed in there? Like weatherguy said, a lot of wood will sizzle a little when you toss it on hot coals. Cherry is noted for that. But as long as it doesn't keep up too long, and isn't coming from the center of the splits, no big deal. But yes, first my wood from the stacks gets loose bark taken off, gets brushed off and comes to the stack near the door, where gets covered a little better and is more protected from rain. Then my wood hoop inside holds three days' worth of wood, so whatever I bring in has at least a couple days next to the stove to dry out more. But yeah, three years in the stack should dry about anything.

 

[St. Coemgen]

First, what weatherguy and Woody Stover said above is good advise.

Adding to that:

Wood is hydrophilic. That is, it will absorb moisture from the air around it. That is why wood "expands" in humid conditions (which may be more in either the summer or in winter months depending on location). And if you have wood doors or windows, this in part explains why they may "stick" during some part of the year (the wood expanded from absorbing moisture form the air). If your fire does not burn so great in January versus November, that may simply mean your "wood shed" has higher moisture content in January than in November. That may be a spatial issue (not good wind access to move away moisture laden air) or may just be a local climatic fact that your air in January has more relative moisture in it than in September. Of course, placing your wood shed in a location that allows for wind and other drying conditions in the winter may help,..... or may not... again, your relative local atmospheric water may simply make your wood moisture content "more" in January than in November regardless to where you put your shed. That is, there are a lot of variable here to consider.

Also, side note, I have had very dry wood get very wet and go moldy in a basement. For the same reasons: basements tend to have a lot of "wet air". I would not recommend storing wood in a basement for more than a few days.

Another option is your moisture meter is just wrong. Try another make and model.

Hope this helps.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

im thinking you have a leak in your covering somewhere and your woods getting wet that way. Maybe your just in a bad section of your stack thats gotten wet. Maybe try wood from another area and see if that helps?

 

[FaithfulWoodsman]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I had the post about the cherry sizzling a little, but honestly they burned great. This newest batch had some foamy spots. Not in the middle, only near the edges. Stove temps were nice and hot. Thanks for the thorough explanation St. Coemgen. I know wood is affected by humidity (work part time as a carpenter), but the last load from the shed was just a week ago and it was warm and misty for days before it went into the basement. It burned with no sizzle at all. But I do think the wood that doesn't get the shed treatment is hanging on to and taking in more atmospheric moisture. 1) I'm realizing the ends butted in the middle of the pallet don't get enough air and 2) the tarps are not really keeping it rain free underneath. Don't get me wrong, this stuff is burning and quite well after 15 minutes of water foaming. Its just that when you spent the fall with stuff that lit like 2x and took less than 10 minutes from reload to close down, it's just frustrating. I thought that with it being two years, humidity and rain really wouldn't be a noticable issue even if it wasn't under shed. Wrong........should have known.

Another option is your moisture meter is just wrong. Try another make and model.

Good call. I have two, but they both say the same.

Sure there's not a little Oak or something mixed in there?

Another good call. Actually yes there is.... a small load of burr oak. It's 2 years as well and I expected it to sizzle some. Funny thing is, it had very little water coming out and lit faster. Go figure.

 

[FaithfulWoodsman]

im thinking you have a leak in your covering somewhere

This is part of the problem. The tarp is 2 years old as well and flaking. Think I'm gonna have to have the "I need a 12 cord wood shed" talk.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

So I'm on the 3 year plan now, but this year burning 1.5-2 year c/s/s (ash, soft maple, beech). I top cover my stuff with tarps, but have half the stacks under rubber roof. The past two years I've loaded two cords into the woodshed by the house in sept and it burns great when I start in Nov. When I reload in early Jan the stuff is not near as dry and doesn't burn as good. I figured with this stuff this year being 2 yrs it wouldnt be an issue. But I'm getting quite a bit of water still? Fresh splits read around 17%-20%, but it doesn't seem to be dry enough. I either need another shed, more rubber roof, or more room so I can stack with more air (currently double stack stack on pallets, with space in-between pallet runs). Maybe I shouldn't rush to judgement as I put a fresh off the pile load in tonight, and should give it a little time in the basement or shed. But this ain't rain water, they sizzle out the end. Just frustrated, first batch burned like a dream.

When you say 17-20% isn't dry enough, is that based on how it actually burns or how some water comes out the ends at the beginning of a burn cycle?

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

You definitely need a bigger woodshed.

That, and remove the bark where practical.

Or perhaps a substatial solar kiln operation.

I understand your dilemma, FW, I'm in the same boat.

 

[FaithfulWoodsman]

When you say 17-20% isn't dry enough, is that based on how it actually burns or how some water comes out the ends at the beginning of a burn cycle?

LOL. Well kinda both. The stuff put in the shed in Sept ran 10%-15% and lit super quick and no water. New stuff just put in shed has very noticeable water sizzle and takes a good 15-20 minutes to quit and catch, but burns nice from then on. I guess after having really super dry stuff I don't want to deal with the sizzle anymore, so I'll be looking into what I can do to maintain that all winter long.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

LOL. Well kinda both. The stuff put in the shed in Sept ran 10%-15% and lit super quick and no water. New stuff just put in shed has very noticeable water sizzle and takes a good 15-20 minutes to quit and catch, but burns nice from then on. I guess after having really super dry stuff I don't want to deal with the sizzle anymore, so I'll be looking into what I can do to maintain that all winter long.

Understood.

I do like to burn some of that 10-15% moisture wood too. I had some solar kiln dried wood left over from this past summer. I usually use it in one of our outdoor grills but put some in the wood stove recently. The stuff lit like a matchstick.

 

[blades]

Hint with tarps need some air space between tarp and wood pile- sections of pallets work well as spacers. also helps to put tarp or similar under the wood stacks ( with drainage) to hold back rising ground moisture.

 

[Jeffm1]

Hint with tarps need some air space between tarp and wood pile- sections of pallets work well as spacers. also helps to put tarp or similar under the wood stacks ( with drainage) to hold back rising ground moisture.

I think you hit the nail on the head. When using tarps, it is best to leave an air space above the top piece and the tarp. I know that is ideal and doesn't always work out like that but is best if possible. I think the pallets as spacers are a good place to start if no bigger air gap is possible.

 

[Hasufel]

I think you hit the nail on the head. When using tarps, it is best to leave an air space above the top piece and the tarp. I know that is ideal and doesn't always work out like that but is best if possible. I think the pallets as spacers are a good place to start if no bigger air gap is possible.

That's a very good point. I usually try to run some scrap 2X lumber along the centerline of a stack before covering it to create a bit of an air gap, plus it help keep water from ponding on the tarp and helps protect the cover from rubbing against sharp edges of splits.

 

[Tar12]

My friend had a sale and in that sale were some old semi grain tarps.I bought every one of them and use them to cover my wood with.The wood stays very dry under these heavy duty tarps compared to the box store tarps.Amazingly dry.....not sure what these tarps are made of but they in no way trap or hold moisture. I am going to continue using them but a woodshed or two is in the works...

 

[Blazing]

I've got 2 foot wide tin on all my stacks two pieces overlapped so I can cover the whole 16 feet. Once it's done 2 years single row top covered it goes into the wood shed for another few years. My wood shed is a 12×21 foot carport that I put 2×4 sides on and the wood is spaced and raised off the ground.

 

[Tar12]

I've got 2 foot wide tin on all my stacks two pieces overlapped so I can cover the whole 16 feet. Once it's done 2 years single row top covered it goes into the wood shed for another few years. My wood shed is a 12×21 foot carport that I put 2×4 sides on and the wood is spaced and raised off the ground.

I have many times cut it green and it went straight into the boiler...no problem...BUT I have to rethink everything now! lol I have a 10x30 concrete slab were the old kennels were on the end of the barn thats getting converted for wood storage as soon as the weather breaks! Tarps are a pain...

 

[FaithfulWoodsman]

Tarps are a pain...

Yes. I'm done with them. Checked with the habitat for humanity restore today for more 1/8" x4' rolled roofing. Another woodshed prob isn't possible right now, but at least rubber roof is 100% waterproof. Half my stuff is under rubber and you can tell the environment is much dryer under it. If I can't find any soon I'm gonna call about a few lumber yards to see if any sell off their stack covers. I replaced the tarps with 8 mil black plastic for now. A few days in the basement near the stove is helping wood as well. We aren't having any problems keeping the house warm in the negatives.

 

[Tar12]

Yes. I'm done with them. Checked with the habitat for humanity restore today for more 1/8" x4' rolled roofing. Another woodshed prob isn't possible right now, but at least rubber roof is 100% waterproof. Half my stuff is under rubber and you can tell the environment is much dryer under it. If I can't find any soon I'm gonna call about a few lumber yards to see if any sell off their stack covers. I replaced the tarps with 8 mil black plastic for now. A few days in the basement near the stove is helping wood as well. We aren't having any problems keeping the house warm in the negatives.

I screwed up once(well more than once lol) and put clear plastic over some wood...didnt take long for the mold to take hold...lol

 

[FaithfulWoodsman]

Update: been watching my chimney and see that I don't get a clean burn until halfway or more into the burn cycle. Was getting clean in 30-60 minutes with the earlier wood. Rechecked the moisture of some splits tonight and they are registering higher. Range is now 18%-22% with an end here and there (1 out of 5) striking 25%. Don't know if those wetter ends were inside or on the outside of the stack. I think I the first time I checked moisture it must of been too early (6-8 hrs). They burn OK, but not superb and the house is toasty, but it's taking more wood than normal. I'll be out this week to take down a super dry dead cherry to start mixing in. Was gonna save it for next fall, but not now. Live and learn they say.