SootEater capability through a 90° bend in a exterior chimney

jatoxico

Minister of Fire
Aug 8, 2011
4,067
Long Island NY
I then assume here if you were to own but one set of these rods you would purchase the black set of heavier rods !
.
Yes but I have a long straight shot. I have to bend 90 deg from the floor up but it's over several feet so no one rod bends much. When I purchased I actually thought they would all be the same and only found out later when I went to use them.
 

jatoxico

Minister of Fire
Aug 8, 2011
4,067
Long Island NY
Yes it helps with that to by keeping them supported as they bend around the corner so they dont bend to sharp.
Do you grease or lube the rod connectors? SootEater uses a spring button. Was thinking of using something to make assembly/disassembly easier since they are getting dirty and stiff.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
18,685
central pa
Do you grease or lube the rod connectors? SootEater uses a spring button. Was thinking of using something to make assembly/disassembly easier since they are getting dirty and stiff.
Yeah I spray them with wd40 every so often. They do get stiff sometimes.
 
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rwhite

Minister of Fire
Nov 8, 2011
1,504
SW Idaho
If it were me I'd get a 8 or 10" pvc elbow that would fit over the exterior chimney pipe. That way you can go into the tee from the side and have some support for the rods and you wouldn't have to make 2 90 bends.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
18,685
central pa
If it were me I'd get a 8 or 10" pvc elbow that would fit over the exterior chimney pipe. That way you can go into the tee from the side and have some support for the rods and you wouldn't have to make 2 90 bends.
That really would not support the rods much at all and from inside you would only be making on 90 also
 

rwhite

Minister of Fire
Nov 8, 2011
1,504
SW Idaho
That really would not support the rods much at all and from inside you would only be making on 90 also
I might have assumed wrong that there was a 90 interior and exterior. As far as support, I think it would control the bend and keep the rods from flopping as much. Not having a bottom support on the sooteater makes it a PIA to add/remove rods and get their silly pin system undone. Takes about 4 hands.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
18,685
central pa
I might have assumed wrong that there was a 90 interior and exterior. As far as support, I think it would control the bend and keep the rods from flopping as much. Not having a bottom support on the sooteater makes it a PIA to add/remove rods and get their silly pin system undone. Takes about 4 hands.
That huge elbow would offer very little support to the rods. The system I described with a piece of flexible conduit does a pretty good job. Ad there would only be the 90 at the base of the chimney to deal with as long as you took the pipe off
 

rwhite

Minister of Fire
Nov 8, 2011
1,504
SW Idaho
That huge elbow would offer very little support to the rods. The system I described with a piece of flexible conduit does a pretty good job. Ad there would only be the 90 at the base of the chimney to deal with as long as you took the pipe off
I think I can picture what your saying with the flexible conduit. I have a partial under ground drain for my gutters with 6" pvc. I use the soot eater to clean when it gets plugged. Not stove pipe but same principle The elbow does give support and keeps the rods from flopping as much. I 'll have to try the conduit and see if that works better.
 

Attaboy

Member
Jan 2, 2017
173
The great white north
Thanks for all the replies, ideas and comments everyone, it is appreciated.

If I may indulge you further and solicit your thoughts even more, one of the replies posted lead me to this line of thinking, the plug at the bottom of the T is presently 7'' - 8'' off the ground, If I were to dig approximately 1 foot down and one foot to one side ( basically a rectangular well ) , remove the factory plug, then using a 6'' dia. metal disc which would have a 1&1/2'' or 2'' drilled in the center of it adding a flexible or hard electrical conduit fixed in to it at 90 ° and running up 2'' or 3'' above the steel disc in to the chimney to center the Sooteater in the chimney do you believe I could more easily use the SootEater by entering it immediately in to the chimney and adding lengths as the drill moves the head and rods up the chimney instead of doing from the inside as previously mentioned.

What say you on this aspect ?
 

Attaboy

Member
Jan 2, 2017
173
The great white north
Thanks for all the replies, ideas and comments everyone, it is appreciated.

If I may indulge you further and solicit your thoughts even more, one of the replies posted lead me to this line of thinking, the plug at the bottom of the T is presently 7'' - 8'' off the ground, If I were to dig approximately 1 foot down and one foot to one side ( basically a rectangular well ) , remove the factory plug, then using a 6'' dia. metal disc which would have a 1&1/2'' or 2'' drilled in the center of it adding a flexible or hard electrical conduit fixed in to it at 90 ° and running up 2'' or 3'' above the steel disc in to the chimney to center the Sooteater in the chimney do you believe I could more easily use the SootEater by entering it immediately in to the chimney and adding lengths as the drill moves the head and rods up the chimney instead of doing from the inside as previously mentioned.

What say you on this aspect ?
Actually when re-thinking this, the steel disc could be replaced by a wood disc as there is no heat involved here.

6'' wood disc with 1.5'' or 2'' hole in the center of it.

What say you on this aspect ?
.
 

EatenByLimestone

Minister of Fire
Jul 12, 2006
7,043
Schenectady, NY
I add lengths of rod as I shove the software up and remove them as I pull it down.

I don't think it needs the extra support you are suggesting. The head is going to wobble around the pipe as you shove it up anyway.
 

Attaboy

Member
Jan 2, 2017
173
The great white north
Thank you for our reply EatenByLimestone.