Sooteater question

[NateJD]

Hi all
I've got an indoor wood furnace with 6"
SS liner inside a brick chimney. The way my flues were laid out I had to use a T with a 24" snout to extend past the masonry. Is the sooteater flexible enough to go horizontal 2 feet the turn vertical and go up 27 feet? My chimney stands alone and too scary for me to get on a ladder and go top down. Thanks.

 

[Sodbuster]

I have a soot eater Nate, and I think that would be a tall order for it. Can you disassemble the T and snout and clean that and then the 27' separately?

 

[NateJD]

No the T is 2 feet back inside the structure of the masonry chimney.

 

[DodgyNomad]

That's a lot of angles to overcome. I'd be afraid with that many bends when you start spinning, something may disconnect or break, then you'd be SOL. How severe and long are the various turns?

 

[NateJD]

That's a lot of angles to overcome. I'd be afraid with that many bends when you start spinning, something may disconnect or break, then you'd be SOL. How severe and long are the various turns?

Only one 90 degree turn. I can take apart the exposed stovepipe. Just wondering if sooteater could turn 90 degrees and go up 27 feet.

 

[bholler]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/soot-eater.159297/

Read this thread answering that exact question

 

[DodgyNomad]

Only one 90 degree turn. I can take apart the exposed stovepipe. Just wondering if sooteater could turn 90 degrees and go up 27 feet.

I think that I'd try to contact and talk to a technician or engineer at the company. The new more flexible white shafts might be able to handle it, but I doubt it. That's a really severe angle, and to then to apply rotational torque on it.

I can tell you this, I wouldn't do it with the brown rods on mine. You can make a 90 degree bend with multiple rods, but not in such a short distance. I have a 45 degree, but I enter my liner through the front of the stove, up the back and into the 45, then through the chimney liner.

This probably isn't a good option, but I wonder if you could drill a hole somewhere under your T and reduce the severity of the rod entrance angle, and then somehow plug it and tape it shut, if this is the only option for removing creosote without climbing your roof. It would be better if you could reduce the angles.