Stove/Chimney Repair Advice

[Michael4537]

I have a 1,200 sqft raised ranch with a wood stove in the basement, currently serving as a wine rack (pictured below). I had a bunch of oak, ash, and birch trees come down on my property this summer that I want to start burning this winter to save on propane and have a reliable heat source for when the power goes out (and wood stoves are just nice).

The stove is an Earth Stove, but I don't know the year/model. The masonry chimney extends from the basement up past the roof, with a little cleanout door at the bottom behind the stove. I had it inspected when I bought the house two years ago (attached below), and the chimney tile is in poor shape and needs to be replaced. I got a quote along with the inspection for pulling a permit ($300), removing the tile ($1,600), replacing it with a flexible liner ($2,675 materials + $800 labor), replace the pipe from the stove to the wall ($150), and install a new stove (Blaze King Princess, $4,280). So that's $5,525 to fix the chimney, plus $4,280 for the new stove, for a total of $9,805. That's more than I'd like to spend (I'm sure prices are higher now, too), and I have some questions.

1) I've settled on doing the chimney work myself, I think I can do it for about $2,500. From reading posts on the forum, it seems like my best option would be to remove the clay tile (I'm renting a removal tool), install a new cap, and just abandoned the cleanout door behind the stove since I can just take the stovepipe off. The thimble also needs replaced. Would there be any benefit to using a rigid liner with a t-section to utilize the cleanout?

2) The top of the chimney was built up with bricks and causes a slight constriction. Should I leave them or remove them (assume the chimney would still be up to code)? I plan on getting a cap that covers the entire top of the chimney anyway, and I think it may sit better with the bricks removed.

3) Do I need a new stove? A newer one would burn better/cleaner/longer, but I know nothing about Earth Stoves and whether or not they'd be worth keeping. It does look like, at a minimum, the door would need to be resealed. I wouldn't mind taking the money I save on the chimney and putting it towards a new stove. From what I've read, the Princess is a great stove. I have family with a top-loading Harman that's a beast, too.

4) Is it worth it? While the stove would be nice, I'm not sure the house layout will work well. There is a single vent above the stove into the dining area, and a staircase down to the basement in the middle of the house. I'm not sure in that will be enough to circulate the heat into the bedrooms, and I don't want my basement to be a sauna while the rest of the house is freezing, especially since we don't spend any time down there (beyond me cleaning and working on house projects). Should I run the old stove for a season, and then revaluate in the spring?​

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[stoveliker]

There's no need to hurry; your wood won't be burnable this winter. Far too wet.

It's split? Stacked off the ground? Top covered?

Oak needs two, better three years to dry.
Ash 1.5 years, not half a year.
Birch I don't know.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Birch I don't know.

If it's split and high and dry it should be ready in about 6 months. Maybe less if you have a good sunny airy spot.

 

[Turbo89]

If it’s standing dead ash, it may be dry in a month or two. Your layout looks like it will work alright, so it’s worth trying and if you’re willing to do it yourself you may be able to
Save some money on the insulated liner.

I’d personally try to minimize the money I laid out unti I got a season out of it, so I’d re-gasket the stove, line it and try it out for the season. If you can’t get your wood dry, consider bio bricks and maybe mix in some of your least wet wood.

 

[stoveliker]

Standing dead ash the first 10-15 ft will be wet imo.
The crown maybe not.

 

[bigealta]

I've seen some decent stoves on marketplace in NJ very recently.

 

[bigealta]

 

[bigealta]

This is in Leonardo NJ

 

[Michael4537]

There's no need to hurry; your wood won't be burnable this winter. Far too wet.

It's split? Stacked off the ground? Top covered?

Oak needs two, better three years to dry.
Ash 1.5 years, not half a year.
Birch I don't know.

The ash was dead standing for I'd say at least fire years and has be sitting stacked (not split) in my driveway in the sun since I'd say May. I was planning on burning that this first season.

The birch was live and the oak had just died. I'd probably burn next winter and the following winter, respectively.

It's all checked pretty good (except the birch) and I was splitting it with a 4lb axe. How do I tell if it's seasoned enough? I think I have a moisture meter laying around somewhere...

 

[Michael4537]

If it’s standing dead ash, it may be dry in a month or two. Your layout looks like it will work alright, so it’s worth trying and if you’re willing to do it yourself you may be able to
Save some money on the insulated liner.

I’d personally try to minimize the money I laid out unti I got a season out of it, so I’d re-gasket the stove, line it and try it out for the season. If you can’t get your wood dry, consider bio bricks and maybe mix in some of your least wet wood.

Thanks! I'm pretty much committed to doing at least the liner at this point. I'll get a door seal kit too and see how it goes.

I'm not familiar burning hardwood (moved from an area where everyone burned dead standing pine and fir). Would bio bricks be better than buying firewood from someone local if I needed to supplement my supply while my own stuff cures?

 

[Michael4537]

This is in Leonardo NJ

Leonardo is a bit far (I'm in the tippy top of NJ), but I will definitely check out facebook and see if there is anything good nearby.

 

[Murray01]

Dig out the moisture meter, it’s a handy tool. Post your own add on FB, Wanted dry seasoned wood. Will pay cash.

 

[stoveliker]

The ash was dead standing for I'd say at least fire years and has be sitting stacked (not split) in my driveway in the sun since I'd say May. I was planning on burning that this first season.

The birch was live and the oak had just died. I'd probably burn next winter and the following winter, respectively.

It's all checked pretty good (except the birch) and I was splitting it with a 4lb axe. How do I tell if it's seasoned enough? I think I have a moisture meter laying around somewhere...

Wood laying in rounds doesn't dry.
Checked ends don't mean much. You have to split (or resplit a split) and stick the pins of a moisture meter deep in the center of the freshly exposed surface, parallel to the grain.

 

[stovelark]

I'd suggest getting a liner installed as you're planning to, that's good. For the stove, she may be ok, but she's past her prime. You'll appreciate something newer and cleaner burning. Having said that, if the wood isn't going to be well seasoned, it will not work out well and you will be frustrated. Dry wood is essential, using your older stove (or at least to have better success) or getting something newer. I think you'll find too that the heat from the lower level will mitigate itself upstairs, certainly downstairs will be warmer. I have a raised ranch, downstairs is always a few degrees warmer than upstairs, with our bedrooms being the coolest. I put a register in our living room (above the stove downstairs) and the stairs going to the lower level acts as a cool air return. Steel stoves while not as ornate as their cast or soapstone sisters in most people's view, tend to heat the upper level better, due to their convective nature, while cast and soapstone are more radiant heaters, best to be in the room with you, or at least easier to live in the room where you are. Whatever you do, dry wood is the key, as many have already said. Good luck.

 

[Turbo89]

Thanks! I'm pretty much committed to doing at least the liner at this point. I'll get a door seal kit too and see how it goes.

I'm not familiar burning hardwood (moved from an area where everyone burned dead standing pine and fir). Would bio bricks be better than buying firewood from someone local if I needed to supplement my supply while my own stuff cures?

Bio Bricks burn similar to wood, they’re compressed saw dust. The big advantage is that they’re very dry, so it will help if your wood isn’t seasoned.

 

[Turbo89]

I've seen some decent stoves on marketplace in NJ very recently.

This a great idea too, I spent months scouring Facebook this past spring and eventually found a screaming deal on my PE Summit.

If going this route definitely research the stoves (this forum is a great resource), and size it to your space.

 

[bigealta]

Leonardo is a bit far (I'm in the tippy top of NJ), but I will definitely check out facebook and see if there is anything good nearby.

Ha, I drove from mid jersey to Boston to get my jotul f400. (5 hours each way)